Name that Armor........ It's the ARGUS!!!

[TurboCharizard]

Hey guys, thanks again for the advice, it really helped out with the next 2 prints. And again, I have a question:

The bottom of my print is now producing a flaired edge. I can cut it and sand down but is there a way to prevent that?


View attachment 312182


I also had an issue where the piece pulled away from the bed and began curling upwards so now the 2 pieces don’t match up. I went over the piece in cura and it was flat in that area. Friend said it may have been my fan going on too soon and cooling that section too soon and made it curled

View attachment 312183

That flared edge is the elephants foot that I had mentioned earlier where material is compressed down. It's not the worst since you can clean it up with a knife, deburring tool or card scraper.

For the warping that's more of a few possibilities with either your bed not being hot enough, too many drafts depending on material, part geometry, too much cooling or even other things that might cause the print to come unstuck. I usually use a cooler bed temperature with a grippy bed material and then rely on brims to help keep parts stuck.

 

[S225]

Hey guys, thanks again for the advice, it really helped out with the next 2 prints. And again, I have a question:

The bottom of my print is now producing a flaired edge. I can cut it and sand down but is there a way to prevent that?


View attachment 312182


I also had an issue where the piece pulled away from the bed and began curling upwards so now the 2 pieces don’t match up. I went over the piece in cura and it was flat in that area. Friend said it may have been my fan going on too soon and cooling that section too soon and made it curled

View attachment 312183

Increasing the bed temp by 5-10°c helped solve a ton of warping for me. Rafts add a few extra minutes to a print with minimal waste and are super handy getting parts to print with good first layers if you can't get the bed perfectly level.

 

[PlanetAlexander]

You can also consider lowering the fan speed/turning it off just for the first few layers to make sure they don't cool to fast. I even have my first few layers print at 10c hotter than the rest of the print

 

[Nightwing5931]

The edge is from slowing down the first layer this could also be the cause for the warping. What temp are you running your bed at? Sometimes with longer prints, the cooling of the plastic happens too quickly and the bed helps prevent this. I personally run my beds at 60 C. However depending on your location and if you have a lot of humidity this can change what temps you need and the ambient temp of the room your printer is in also will affect how fast the filament cools. Also, the brand of filament can affect this as well. Have you tried using a raft yet? This would help with both the edge and the warping. The downside is you waste a bit of filament but it can help prevent some of the issues you're having.

Hope this helps!

 

[Dirtdives2424]

Well everything you guys said was correct.......well mostly. But that’s not the biggest issue. While I was fixing a gluing mistake, I cracked a section of the barrel. A weak point I guess. So I tried to re-glue it.....and then dropped it on the floor!!!

So now the ends broke off because the glue points were so strong. Think I need to thicken the walls and end points. I know the glue works, but apparently the pieces themselves need a bit more umph. Aside from starting all over again, what else could I do?

 

[S225]

Well everything you guys said was correct.......well mostly. But that’s not the biggest issue. While I was fixing a gluing mistake, I cracked a section of the barrel. A weak point I guess. So I tried to re-glue it.....and then dropped it on the floor!!! View attachment 312214

So now the ends broke off because the glue points were so strong. Think I need to thicken the walls and end points. I know the glue works, but apparently the pieces themselves need a bit more umph. Aside from starting all over again, what else could I do?

With the barrel being so long there's a good amount of stress pulling on those connections. I would recommend a few things.

Adding some support to the connections, like a set of pegs between each part, will greatly reduce the stress on the connected faces.
You could also attempt to make both ends fit into each other. Don't need pegs if the part IS the peg.

Second idea would be to add extra walls on parts that have more forces being applied to them (gravity, shouldering, hitting the barrel against a door... try not to do this it's not fun)
2 -3 walls tend to be good for lower stressed parts but 4-5 walls for a total wall width of 1.6mm-2mm offer more strength.

If you have moved to CURA there's there's cool setting called gradual infill steps can add more infill to the top of a print. This will add a little more durability against bending and hopefully produce better surface quality on the top of a print. The amount of steps reduces the infill by half for all but the last few layers.
20% infill with 1 step makes the print have 10% infill at first and adds more at the top.
20% infill with 2 steps makes the print have 5%infill, then 10%near the top and then 20% to finish.

 

[TurboCharizard]

Since you have parts broken open now is a good time to add dowel/pipe/threaded rods into the recesses. Bumps and bangs happen with long props so adding materials that don't like to shear is a bonus.