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Reach UNSC Trooper WIP

Discussion in 'New Recruits' started by TD2253, Nov 10, 2010.

  1. TD2253

    TD2253 Member

    Hello and thanks for stopping by. This is my first Halo armor build after doing quite a bit of research and reading on this forum. So here goes.

    Since my original thread was titled inappropriately, I decide to post a new thread about my Reach UNSC Trooper armor build.

    Since there were no known pep file for UNSC trooper armor other than the helmet and EOD shoulder plates, I decided to make my own chest and back plates, ab plates and drop thigh plates from scratch. Just a quick summary of what I've done to start this project:

    1. I made drawings on card stock paper based on the McFarlane UNSC figures to use as a template.


    2. Then I built the chest from foam board but it didn't look quite right to me.


    3. So, I decided to build the armor using 1/2" inch foam rubber mats. I used super glue for assembly and dremel'd the edges and sides to clean it up a bit. The first pic was shot without using the flash to show the angles.




    I will update this thread again in about a week with the rest of the body armor, hopefully! Thanks for looking! :)

    Attached Files:

  2. JMann

    JMann New Member

    Looks great so far. Will be nice to see another personal take on foam. Good Luck!
  3. TD2253

    TD2253 Member

    Thanks JMann! I've never worked with foam rubber before so this will be a very interesting build for me.
  4. alix965


    off to a great start. MOREPICSPLEASE.
  5. Sean C84

    Sean C84 New Member

    Looking very good so far. I suppose that foam carving would also be a smart way to do the chestplate for an ODST, as opposed to Pepping it. Good luck with the rest of your build!
  6. TD2253

    TD2253 Member

    Thanks guys! Yeah, I'd rather use foam rubber as opposed to pepping the parts since its very time consuming. Cutting the parts with a hot knife makes it really easy and it probably doesn't dull the blade as much.
  7. I'm sorry but DANG talk about game acurate.Someday I want to make A reach army trooper too.I gona comeback to these pics for reference when I do.keep it up :)
  8. Road Kill

    Road Kill

    hey that looks pretty sweet man :)
  9. Brandon McClain

    Brandon McClain

    Looking good! Keep up the good work! I do believe this is the first reach trooper build I have seen.
  10. regr3t

    regr3t New Member

    Looks really good! Im thinking about doing certain parts in foam, so its good to see that people are getting really good results working with it!
  11. vv7

    vv7 Jr Member

    Looks great. Question, where did you get the foam mat and how much is it? Other thickness (1/4" or 1/8")?
  12. TD2253

    TD2253 Member

    Thanks for the compliments guys! I got the foam mats from Harbor Freight Tools and CLICK HERE for the actual item. They only had the 1/2" and I believe it was 3/4" sets when I picked up mine. Not sure if they actually have 1/4" thickness foam mats though.
  13. Grave Hawk

    Grave Hawk Member

    very nice start. It's nice to see other builds besides spartans. Keep up the good work!
  14. setabkcin

    setabkcin Jr Member

    Looking good so far.
  15. vv7

    vv7 Jr Member

    Hey, thanks for the quick reply. I'm going to swing by harbor freight tonight to pick some up. I may redo my ODST shoulder straps with this stuff. Thanks for the inspiration. Looking forward to seeing your project completed.
  16. Tyvern


    this looks good! must continue!
  17. braytak

    braytak Member

    how do you cut the foam with 45 degree edges?
  18. Burns

    Burns New Member

    nice job man. i'm curious to see how this one turns out. looking forward to more pics. :)
  19. TD2253

    TD2253 Member

    Thanks for the nice comments guys! For the 45 degree angled edges, I sliced a wedge behind the part that is supposed to be angled, pull the sliced wedge out, then fold at the slice and glue it together. The result on the front side is the angled feature. The thickness of the sliced wedge on the back depends on how much of an angle is needed to achieve the desired effect.

    Here are some updates on the armor. I managed to finish cutting out the bottom side parts that connects the chest to the back armor. What I've done here is scored about 1/4" of an inch around the bottom edges to achieve the recessed effect. Then, I burned the line details going to and fro the entire length of the parts. I've also cut-out the rank chevrons in the center of the chest piece.






    Attached Files:

  20. braytak

    braytak Member

    looks awesome are you useing 2 different foam thickness?
  21. TD2253

    TD2253 Member

    Thanks braytak! No, I'm only using one thickness which is 1/2" inch but what I've done is cut-out some areas to the shape of the piece that is supposed to be attached to it. So, if the piece is supposed to be raised a tad above the cut-out piece, let's say about 1/4" of an inch, I'll just glue that piece with 1/4" of an inch sticking out from the cut-out.
  22. braytak

    braytak Member

    o i see very smart , i seen some other foam builds where the are using two different sizes , you can prob get thinner foam for details at a craft store
  23. cfh935


    Nice work, I always love seeing free hand work.
  24. TD2253

    TD2253 Member

    Thanks cfh935!

    Here is a little bit of an update on the back part of the armor. I will probably get to detailing and assembling the back armor parts tonight since I will be out most of the day today.

    I made a sketch of the armor first to serve as my templates.

    Cut-outs of the template parts.

    Cut-outs of the foam parts.

    Action figure reference.

    Attached Files:

  25. TD2253

    TD2253 Member

    I finally was able to finish the back armor and attached it to the front. Shoulder straps attach to the upper chest via industrial velcro but the bottom waist bands are super glued to the bottom of the back plate. So, I can put it on like a shirt. Also, I painted the front just to see if I got the right shade of brown and it seems to be pretty close. It should look better after I weather it by dry brushing silver scratches and dents in it. Here are some pics.



    Need to add the detail lines in before painting.




    Attached Files:

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