Shift Into Turbo! A Power Ranger/Carranger Log (Red Racer)

Alright, it's update time! After 18 days of creation, troubleshooting, measuring and searching for the right info to create the pattern pieces, I've finally found a method to create 5 pieces to create the base of the suit!

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This image shows the front part of the suit.

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This piece creates the back part.

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This pattern block will be used to create the back part of the "pants"

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And this last part creates the front part of the pants.

I forgot to take a shot of the sleeve block, but I'll post the images again at a later post with my web camera. But this part was some what of a challenge. I had to study how the suit was made and create 5 separate parts. When it's cut out and sewn together, it will look like one whole suit.

Now, I will have to make adjustments to some of the pieces because certain body parts are bigger than the others like the arms and the legs. Because of this, I will have to increase the width of the pattern slightly by at least a 1/2 inch. But I will say that its's all coming together. I'm actually surprised I was able to make one this fast.

As of right now, I'm planning on which part I need to work on first. I could continue finish the sewing and get that knocked out in 2 days worth of time once the other patterns are made. Mean while, I also need to consider investing in better paint for that reflective shine look I've been searching for in the past year. I was convinced to get a paint booth when it's time to paint. I do have one in mind. Also, I've thought about investing in automotive paint as well. But to find a paint similar to Sunrise Red will be difficult. I'll have to find a method to pull that off. I will also need to invest in a spraygun that allows me to get that reflective look, but that's going to take some preparations. I'm also going to perform injection molding, but in its basic form based on a video I saw on Youtube. I'll post the link after sunrise to get a good idea on how it's done.

Well, that's all for now. Time to get my 40 winks. Until the next post, I'll see you around.
 
As promised, here's the video I had in mind to create an "injection mold".


In practical use, I will be using a similar method in to creating this helmet. I will need some wooden dowels to pull this off when making the double matrix silicone mold. That will help me create the air vents when using the Smoothcast 305. But I will have to find a way to stabilize the item when the time comes to pour the plastic into the mold. The painting process is pretty straight forward, but I will have to invest in a paint booth, but not in the size used in the video. The electronics, as far as the lighting and the cooling fan, will also be taken into consideration to create the appropriate spots for installation. That means that I will have to edit the 3d model slightly to incorporate tabs for the fan so it can be held in place.

More updates later on if possible.
 
Well, it's been 3 weeks since my last post and it's time for another update. As scheduled, I'm going to proceed with creating a double silicone mold and a lot of interesting things has happened since then. For starters, I obtained more tools to help me smooth out the surface on certain parts of the 3d prints.

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The Black and Decker Orbit sander will help me smooth out this back piece that I'm going to start today. I was able to get this for 40 bucks, at the time of this message, at Lowe's I will try it out with at least 80 grit sandpaper dry and see how it works before I wet sand it to a higher grit. After that I will use some automotive body filler smooth it out and sand it down as well before the next leap into the higher grits but that will be based on judgement. Next once every thing is smoothed out, I will place it on a bed of clay and start the process of using this product.

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This product will go over both the front and the back of the helmet pieces after it's printed. Now here's where things become complicated at this step. For it to be completely cure, it will take about 6 hours. But I can still get down at least 4 layers before I leave it alone undisturbed. The downside to this is that I will have to print the front part of the helmet and try to get that set up in 2 and a half weeks and repeat the process for the silicone jacket. I tried to print it first this week, but the roll I was using became jammed. I could not save the first attempt, but I will print it again between now and Sunday.

The Epoximite 101 system from Smooth Cast will create the rigid fiberglass shell for both the back and front parts of the back helmet. Once both sides are encased, I will start the process with this product, Smooth Cast 305.

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This will create the actual copy of the main helmet parts through the use of the injection method inspired by the video of the last posting.
Once combined, all I have to do is to pour it in, let it set and that's it. No need to rotate the liquid around. If all goes in according to plan, I can keep making copies until the silicone mold is damaged beyond repair. Then it's off to the painting stage and I have a plan setup to make that happen as well.

Time to get to work, I have 12.5 hours left to finish. Wish me luck, fellas! Until next time, see you around.
 
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