Skope's Mark Vi Build **(9/24) Both Biceps 'glassed**

[skope]

hmm.... its looks REALLY cool!!!! also, i have a question... how DO u put te hand plates on to the gloves anyway? ive been trying to find out but im too tired from school and stuff.

I haven't quite gotten there yet. I thought about it when I went to bed last night. Any way you do it, it'll probably consist of building a notch you feed a strap of some sort through (or multiple straps) that are then attached to a glove via snaps or velcro.

 

[LastSpartan]

Velcro

Good job buddy

 

[bevbor]

I see you use cups as well

 

[rpalmer919]

So I noticed this depression on the bottom corners of the visor area (on both the Halo 2 & 3 version) that seem to go in further than the actual visor does. What is the general solution for this? Just make it a piece that lies on top of the visor? Because it would be a headache to cut through the double visor.

Here's what I would do: don't worry about that until you resin your helmet. But, in the meantime, open up the pep file you used, and isolate the pieces for those parts (disjoin the faces so all you have for each piece is the front part and the sides). Print them out and refold them, but this time reverse the folds so they will be sticking out instead of in.

Set those aside and save them until after you resin your helm. Then, when you dremel out the visor, dremel out those inset pieces along with it. Now, glue the new pieces you made in their place, and resin them.

I used this same method to add some details from FS's helm to Danni's after I had resined it...

 

[skope]

I see you use cups as well

I actually got the idea from you

Here's what I would do: don't worry about that until you resin your helmet. But, in the meantime, open up the pep file you used, and isolate the pieces for those parts (disjoin the faces so all you have for each piece is the front part and the sides). Print them out and refold them, but this time reverse the folds so they will be sticking out instead of in.

Set those aside and save them until after you resin your helm. Then, when you dremel out the visor, dremel out those inset pieces along with it. Now, glue the new pieces you made in their place, and resin them.

I used this same method to add some details from FS's helm to Danni's after I had resined it...

Thanks, sounds like a plan ... I'll keep that in mind.


What say we move this puppy to the big boy forum, eh?

 

[Spartan 051]

how long did it take your resin to dry?

 

[skope]

how long did it take your resin to dry?

It varied. The helmet: the fiberglassing coat took a couple of days to become fully dry, but that was inside the helmet (poor air flow), and it was cold those days. The hand plates: each coat took a little under 2 hours in 45-50 degree temperatures.

 

[Spartan 051]

It varied. The helmet: the fiberglassing coat took a couple of days to become fully dry, but that was inside the helmet (poor air flow), and it was cold those days. The hand plates: each coat took a little under 2 hours in 45-50 degree temperatures.

thanks i just coated my odst helm with one coat of resin i will wait tell tomorrow

 

[skope]

Okay, so I'm back up at college in my dorm ... where I have a camera. I have some better quality pictures for you!

 

[Robogenisis]

Wow. Looks great. Now just paint it, and it'll be good (can't wait )

 

[skope]

Wow. Looks great. Now just paint it, and it'll be good (can't wait )

I'm still deciding what color to paint it. I don't know whether I want to do MC green or if I want to do red with the white accents

 

[Robogenisis]

Like THIS?
I like WetOkole's paintjob on that one. He fixed it up a bit, then repainted, but I like this red/white combo.

 

[skope]

Like THIS?
I like WetOkole's paintjob on that one. He fixed it up a bit, then repainted, but I like this red/white combo.

Yeah, I'd seen that and liked his accents too. After chatting with some friends, I'm going with red. I'm going to read up on some paint methods beyond just coats of red.

 

[bevbor]

Skope,
I'm don't force you to do fiberglass, just asks for my info.
Are you sure you want finish your hand plates without fiberglass inside?
Don't yout care them might get broken from little pressure?
Or you think these parts are not so important and you can redo them anytime?
Generally, what was reason of your decision do not fiberglass inside of handplates?
Thanks.

 

[SpartanJhon117]

i think the best painting would be from halo 3 campaing spartans117 well im going to that.

 

[skope]

Skope,
I'm don't force you to do fiberglass, just asks for my info.
Are you sure you want finish your hand plates without fiberglass inside?
Don't yout care them might get broken from little pressure?
Or you think these parts are not so important and you can redo them anytime?
Generally, what was reason of your decision do not fiberglass inside of handplates?
Thanks.

I felt that the pepakura itself created a lot of stability. After I added the first inner coat of resin (it was quite thick), it added a lot of weight and stability. I had let it pool in the low spots. I added another thicker layer that just further added to that weight and stability. There's about an ounce of resin inside both plates, and over half an ounce on the tops. Just feeling the finished piece, I know it will take a lot of pressure to break that, and I don't intend to fall from a great height and land on my hand, or get in a brawl with a rival con-goer.

i think the best painting would be from halo 3 campaing spartans117 well im going to that.

I think I'm just going to go outside the norm.

 

[dannifood4less]

resin cracks fairly easy. even if you did one layer of fiberglass on the inside it will make it stronger than you think..

 

[skope]

resin cracks fairly easy. even if you did one layer of fiberglass on the inside it will make it stronger than you think..

Don't worry, I'm not getting into the habit of not resining. It's just these handplates. It's a low surface area, and they're easy to remake if indeed they do break.

So I've been talking with a friend who's into model aircraft, and we thought about doing a candy apple red. Yeah, I know, cliche right? But yeah, they make the spray translucent lacquers for candy apple paint jobs on models. The accepted method is spraying it over a coat of metallic silver since it's a lighter color, but I thought I would experiment and see what it looks like over gold. They sell the spray lacquer at model shops.

Buuuuut, that'll have to wait. My funds have diminished greatly driving all over the state with these gas prices.

[Monday Update]
The wonderful network printer in my dorm is down this weekend through now ... an admin lives across the hallway and assures me it will be fixed tomorrow. Then we can get the boots moving along.

 

[docbytes]

Can't wait to see your stuff completed, I'm sure it will be up there with the best!

 

[skope]

An update at long last. I went out today and fetched the paint for the handplates. I bought Krylon Hammered Finish in Silver and Pactra Racing Finish Candy Red. The Candy Red is a 3 oz can, and it lasted just long enough to do 3 coats. It looks beautiful, I must say. The hammered finish looked gorgeous just on its own, then the Candy Red just made it better and better. The pictures look a bit orange, but in reality they are pure red.





I will be putting some battle damage on it, don't worry.