Sliced Armor™ technology.

[bevbor]

Paper would take forever, but thicker layers of something like foamcore or MDF (5mm, 1/4", etc.) would work perfectly well for getting a general shape to sculpt on, and would add up fairly quickly. If you have the right tools, this should work well.

Thank you very much for support of me!

 

[23Magnum]

I'll consider your remarks, thanks a lot.
Idea about divide model for 5 parts - I like it.
And I definitely want to show extruded layers too, unfortunately it's possible only tomorrow.
I didn't say about layering PAPER on PAPER, I mean layer print (on regular paper) of slice, stikied to some material like for example 5 mm thick cardboard, cut out, and then layered on top of other such 5 mm thick cut piece. Where are you see more paper waste?
Here on my model I got 23*2=46 slices, are you sorrow about 46 A3 sheets? I'm not.

Ah, ok I think I misunderstood your initial intentions.

What you describe here then does sound more feasible than I had previously thought. Sorry for the misunderstanding.

 

[bevbor]

Sorry for the misunderstanding.

It's ok, you're always welcome to discuss!

 

[rvb4life]

I can see where you are going with this, but i can see that this could be an epic phail if the person who tried this wasnt experienced enough.

hmmm......this would be more for solid busts....right? layered profile slabs and filled in with a bondo-type adhesive (clay maybe) but this wouldnt be very cost-effective....would it?

hell...im only 16. WTF do i know about this

 

[bevbor]

I can see where you are going with this, but i can see that this could be an epic phail if the person who tried this wasnt experienced enough.

Any experience is result of mistakes

hmmm......this would be more for solid busts....right? layered profile slabs and filled in with a bondo-type adhesive (clay maybe) but this wouldnt be very cost-effective....would it?

hell...im only 16. WTF do i know about this

I planning to design such slices that gives in result empty form inside model.
You're young, but this fact doesn't mean that you not wise

 

[colmon 9]

This is a great idea, id like to try it some time.(like right now)

 

[Loess]

Hmmm, you wouldn't happen to have a model for the Halo:CE Mk V helm would you?

 

[NZTK]

My brother and I coded a piece of software that did this a few years back. I thought we were onto a great original idea, then I found this. Its been around for a few years

The software is called Wizray

 

[CommanderFluffy]

so a 3d printer muc like so http://www.popularmechanics.com/technology...ry/4224759.html or even a total perinter package like http://zcorp.com/Products/3D-Printers/ZPri...Plus/spage.aspx ?

 

[bevbor]

Hmmm, you wouldn't happen to have a model for the Halo:CE Mk V helm would you?

Yes I have it too

My brother and I coded a piece of software that did this a few years back. I thought we were onto a great original idea, then I found this. Its been around for a few years
The software is called Wizray

I found it on Internet, it's name is Wizaray-R and it is expensive, and that is very sad
Meanwhile I'm continue in manual mode.

so a 3d printer muc like so ....cut....
or even a total perinter package like ....cut.... ?

Shish.. CNC for individual hobbyst is platitude, haha

Here I've got 24 pairs of slices, each slice 5mm thick.
First design - just rough cut of each slice.
I planning to do today also design with knife inclination.

I think if I'll use thin material and different knife inclination results may be outstanding.


UPDATE:
I did slightly different design with knife tilt. See:

The problem is that I can apply inclination only globally to the slice. So inclination not truely tangent to the original model.
Actually, I can edit each slice and add true inclination on every edge, but it is way more work.
I think it may be useful to add to every edge og slice drawing inclination value in degrees.

 

[NZTK]

Be very carefu to line the parts up when you stick them together. In the software my brother and I made, we hade the software generate keys, so the slices would be assembled on a pair of rods. If you put two cylinders through it under a boolean modifier it should do the same thing. Ultimately I dropped the project as for my work pepakura is far more efficient. Good luck though, it would be awesome to see someone do it.

Edit

Now I think to add two horizontal holes through all slices.
For easy assembly.
Like this

Sorry, I hadnt read the whole thing

 

[23Magnum]

The problem is that I can apply inclination only globally to the slice. So inclination not truely tangent to the original model.
Actually, I can edit each slice and add true inclination on every edge, but it is way more work.
I think it may be useful to add to every edge og slice drawing inclination value in degrees.

I wouldn't apply the draft angle at all, and here's why I think that.

In the image below, you have thin sections with a large hatch. These are your slices. The other part that is hatched is some sort of filler people could apply to the slices like bondo or clay. They could hand fill these and surface the model as then like. Then would just have to fill to each slice's outer edge. The yellow line would be the finished surface then after smoothing.

Sorry for it being so dark. Did it in AutoCAD real quick.

(Click for larger picture)

This is really shaping[:rolleyes] up Bevbor.

 

[Loess]

I wouldn't apply the draft angle at all, and here's why I think that.

In the image below, you have thin sections with a large hatch. These are your slices. The other part that is hatched is some sort of filler people could apply to the slices like bondo or clay. They could hand fill these and surface the model as then like. Then would just have to fill to each slice's outer edge. The yellow line would be the finished surface then after smoothing.

*SNIP*
This is really shaping[:rolleyes] up Bevbor.

Exactly what I was thinking! I think that this technique would be a nice way to build up a clay sculpt for molding. I'd love to build up and mold a classic Mk V helm, just don't have the time to model it myself.

 

[Yodajammies]

hollowing that sculpt out would be terrible.

If you DID use this method, I'd think molding and then casting a plastic copy would be a pretty good idea.

As a whole, this could totally work, but I think there are much easier/cost effective/time effective ways of doing this.

+1 for the novel idea.

(anyone see the Mythbusters where they used this same technique to make a 600lb moose? )

 

[NOITAIDAR]

the problem with using the outer edge and filling the void is that you then have a non-standard surface to fill. If you're using the inside edge, and cutting between the start line and the next line, you have a straight line in which to cut, and then sand. filling the void from the outer edges will mean that what is inbetween the vertices is anyone's guess. Its likely to me more accurate cutting from the inner edges.

 

[23Magnum]

the problem with using the outer edge and filling the void is that you then have a non-standard surface to fill. If you're using the inside edge, and cutting between the start line and the next line, you have a straight line in which to cut, and then sand. filling the void from the outer edges will mean that what is inbetween the vertices is anyone's guess. Its likely to me more accurate cutting from the inner edges.

Could you explain that in more detail cause I don't see how that's more accurate or easier? That would make a model of the inside of the helmet from what I gathered from your description, unless you mean to have the slices extruded out away from the outside surface of the helmet instead of inward.

I'm just not following.

 

[Pkmnjunky7]

Cool! I'm glad to see someone try this. I've seen this type of technique used on other things before and have always wondered if it could work on armor like this. Good luck!

 

[Loess]

hollowing that sculpt out would be terrible.

If you DID use this method, I'd think molding and then casting a plastic copy would be a pretty good idea.

As a whole, this could totally work, but I think there are much easier/cost effective/time effective ways of doing this.

+1 for the novel idea.

(anyone see the Mythbusters where they used this same technique to make a 600lb moose? )

Using the sculpt to make a mold is the plan.

the problem with using the outer edge and filling the void is that you then have a non-standard surface to fill. If you're using the inside edge, and cutting between the start line and the next line, you have a straight line in which to cut, and then sand. filling the void from the outer edges will mean that what is inbetween the vertices is anyone's guess. Its likely to me more accurate cutting from the inner edges.

I believe this is what you mean...[attachment=4353:cut.JPG] Removeing the outer edges down to the surface.

 

[23Magnum]

Using the sculpt to make a mold is the plan.
I believe this is what you mean...[attachment=4353:cut.JPG] Removeing the outer edges down to the surface.

That's what I figured, and it could work if the slices were of a durable material that you could sand or smooth. I forget what someone said they would use for the slices.

Which edge to use really depends on how Bevbor made the slices. I can't really tell which way he extruded the slices from the images. If they were out away from the model, the inside edge is the way to go. If they were in toward the model, then the outside edge is best.

If I had done these, I would have gone into the model with the slices. After I had the layers align in a physical model, I would fill to the outside edges of the layers. Sand/smooth the surfaces, detailed, then went about making a mold over the model. This is what I thought all this was for.

Hmm, what if you used panels of wood for the layers. Sturdy and sandable. Just an idea.

This idea of yours, Bevbor, is really developing.

 

[Deadguy]

I WAS planning out a 7' long Pelican using something similar to this (scaled to the figures.. I had to bail on the project though).. Half was a box (the area carrying marines), and the rest was to be layered like this, but the profiles would be CNC'd, allowing the edge angles to be accurately cut-out. I was using those old Darth Vader Puzzles as the originating idea:

Taking away material from the steps is a lot easier than adding it, because as you're working, you can clearly see where to stop removing material.. as you make the ledge disappear, you stop. When it's smooth, you're done. Problem is (or perhaps not a problem at all).. the material you use to make the profiles becomes the final surface material for the shape. You'll be spending YEARS with a dremel though.. an alternating contour to sand down the entire perimeter of.

When adding, you KNOW you made the ledge disappear, but by how much? How thin and brittle is the new material in that position? Can you tell? If you add material, and then remove a bit by sanding to smooth it out, what will you be left with? Those ledges may later become breaklines in the finished surface. Some areas will be FAR too shallow to apply standarad filler material to.

A third solution presents itself.. half-removal and half -addition.. by aligning with the centerline of the profiled edge, but I can't see any true advantage to this except the removal process will be easier, and you'd know what to do with the last/first piece.

Another suggestion is that you can also mark each piece with two profiles.. one showing where to cut.. the next showing where the next smaller layer will align. You can do this no matter what design you go for.

The angled cutlines you showed us isn't something you can realistically do without a CNC router making the layers for you, because they change and aren't the same all the way around the profile.

Oh.. and I know this has been mentioned.. but those keys had better be tight.. look at the Darth Vader one with it's loose key system.