type of paper to use for pepakura?

Status
Not open for further replies.

unsurebtwilling

New Member
I read somewhere on here that your suppose to use 110 grain( grade?) paper to use
Was trying to make the death mask from ME2 but the 110 will crease or wrinkle what am I doing wrong also what type of glue?
 
110lb. card stock is pretty much the norm for doing pep. It is what the majority of the people here use. And as diaryboy said, it would be really helpful to see pics and get the details on the glue you used.
 
You'll find the 110lb. card stock at a Wal-Mart, Staples or anywhere that would sell printer paper. It's pretty common.
- For your folds, I personally use a cutting matt or something that won't get damaged underneath, I take 2 different colour pens (1 for mountian folds, 1 for valley folds) and I trace the lines with some pressure along the line so when I fold the line, it comes out smooth.
- In terms of glue, I use hot glue, it's instant, easy, but it's really hot, so you should have a little practice using it before trying to make a super detailed piece so you don't burn yourself :p

GOODLUCK!
 
You'll find the 110lb. card stock at a Wal-Mart, Staples or anywhere that would sell printer paper. It's pretty common.
- For your folds, I personally use a cutting matt or something that won't get damaged underneath, I take 2 different colour pens (1 for mountian folds, 1 for valley folds) and I trace the lines with some pressure along the line so when I fold the line, it comes out smooth.
- In terms of glue, I use hot glue, it's instant, easy, but it's really hot, so you should have a little practice using it before trying to make a super detailed piece so you don't burn yourself :p

GOODLUCK!

A low temp hot glue gun will help a lot with the burning.
 
First, go with what MikyVengeance said, use a pen, stylus, or butter knife to crush (crease) the cardstock where you intend to fold it. If you don't use some type of tool to aid in getting crisp creases right where you need them, your pep will never line up or be symetrical. As for the glue, I used a glue stick (water based). In the end, your resin, or whatever you plan to use to stiffen the finished pep gets a vote in the glue you use. Do a quick test of a glued seam on some scrap cardstock using your uncatalyzed resin and see if it dissolves the glue. If so, go a different route. It's crushing to have your hard work disintegrate in your hand when you apply resin. Also, I'd try to avoid gummy glues as they will foul your sandpaper when you try to do your follow-on sanding. My 2 cents.

Redshirt
 
I've gone with MikyV, Vshore and Dairyboy on the hot glue usage

For the little spaces/corners I just kinda spot welded with the hot glue, and for longer/larger pieces just a decent sized line, too thin and it cools to fast on you and too thick of a line and it might not sit right, and it could burn your fingers if your holding down the spot

As for burns a low temp glue gun
or you could just put a few of the fabric bandaids/addhesive gauze on your fingertips... unless.... you actually want to erase your fingertips so you can create a new identity LOL
 
For paper, in my opinion 110lb is good, 120lb is even better but more expensive and harder to come by. By no means is either bad. What I have done in the past that has worked out for me is use a combination of 110 for smaller pieces with more folds in smaller spaces... It just folds cleaner and easier & 120 for larger pieces with a bigger surface area which require more of a ridgid quality.

But, theres more than one wat to detonate a cat! ;P
 
I recommend hot glue, too. I use it for everything! Seriously, I just used it in my car.

The benefit to hot glue is that you can re-melt a seam that doesn't line up right with the nozzle and re-position it. As for burning your fingers, well, it happens. I barely even bothers me anymore. lol.
 
i use 180gsm card, not sure what that equates to though

i'm with the Penguin here. going metric on ya, i like to use anything from 180gsm to 200gsm. the 200gsm is a little harder to find, but it does have a little bit more rigidity to the structure of a pep. also, i like to use a slightly blunt scalpel to lightly score the folds, however, it means you have to flip the pieces over to score folds that go in the opposite direction...
 
i like to use a slightly blunt scalpel to lightly score the folds, however, it means you have to flip the pieces over to score folds that go in the opposite direction...

a trick I like to use is double scoring the oppisite folds. It takes a little more patience to score one side of the line then the other but it does make the fold a little easier
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top