W.I.P. Halo Reach Noble 6 Armor

[Viridiana Sovari]

Its Go Time!!!!!

So, more pictures. I wrote about needing to re-print the Commando shoulder and I decided to do just that. Let me just preface that this thing is HUGE and I love it

This time I scaled it to max and then increased the width to I think 200mm. For reference its box dimensions are 200mm x 200mm x 250mm.

Time for pictures fresh off the bed.

Some printing defects like I had mentioned before:

Now size comparison:

as you can see this thing is much better, I'm just hoping it actually fits on my bicep piece!

One last note it looks like my print bed is having issues and starting to bubble. I will probably have to replace this soon.

Time to pull off the support structure and get to playing!

Vi Out!

 

[Viridiana Sovari]

So....... Power died again, for the second time of me trying to print the EVA shoulder piece..... I think its cursed.

I wasn't even 10 hours into the print XD.

BUT! on a happier note what do you guys think about this?

I am thinking of using this sticker here after its painted.

That's all for now!

Vi Out!

 

[Viridiana Sovari]

Two Update Tuesday! Wait Sunday? Second Update Sunday? Sure well go with that.
I couldn't help myself and I started painting again. I am also taking a risk and Printing the EVA shoulder again, 3rd times the charm?

I started by masking off areas on the commando shoulder. I'm going to be using black and a Dark Blue Primarily for my build with gold (read: Yellow) accents.

Then I blasted away! The rest of the images are just paint and the blue looks a lot lighter than it actually is. Enjoy!

Vi Out!

 

[Fudz073]

Nice! Awesome work so far.

Have you considered switching from ABS to PLA for your prints? PLA doesn't need a heated bed and so long has there is no drastic temperature change in the room you're printing in, it rarely cracks. I started using ABS for everything but I ended up switching for PLA for larger prints and models. I just use the ABS for smaller functional parts for my other printers and such. PLA also sands a lot better than ABS I feel. Just some food for thought...

Also, Rustoleum makes a filler-primer spray paint that does a good job filling and hiding the layer lines on 3d prints. I just started playing it and saves a lot of time trying to sand out the hard to reach places. A rough sanding is still required before you spray it but I've had a lot of luck with it.

Either way, I'm loving this build. Keep up the great work and I can't wait to see the finished suit!

 

[Reaper07]

This is looking great! Can't wait to see the finished project.

 

[Viridiana Sovari]

Nice! Awesome work so far.

Have you considered switching from ABS to PLA for your prints? PLA doesn't need a heated bed and so long has there is no drastic temperature change in the room you're printing in, it rarely cracks. I started using ABS for everything but I ended up switching for PLA for larger prints and models. I just use the ABS for smaller functional parts for my other printers and such. PLA also sands a lot better than ABS I feel. Just some food for thought...

Also, Rustoleum makes a filler-primer spray paint that does a good job filling and hiding the layer lines on 3d prints. I just started playing it and saves a lot of time trying to sand out the hard to reach places. A rough sanding is still required before you spray it but I've had a lot of luck with it.

Either way, I'm loving this build. Keep up the great work and I can't wait to see the finished suit!

Dude where were you like 2 weeks ago before I started painting! I have done a little work with PLA before but I am finding ABS to work better with my particular printer. It's probably just a print setting that I haven't figured out yet. I will give that a shot in the future though so thank you for the advice! I am sticking with ABS for right now because I am planning on buying a plexi glass enclosure for my printer which should help with the heat and cracking issues. Mainly I have stuck with ABS because I am interested in ABS welding for sticking my pieces together. Not set in stone yet but most of my prints that are complete are already ABS so I can work with that. Maybe PLA for the helmet and torso?

Could have used the filler advice a few weeks ago though, just sayin'.

HAHA! Anyway I'm back and guess what! Third time's the charm! Yep I finally managed to print my EVA shoulder piece completely and it looks awesome!

Now I didn't take and side photos to show you the width but I am much happier with it than I was before so Next time I will do that.

As for painting no real update besides the face that I am bad at planning which is requiring a lot more masking than what is probably necessary. I have the Commando Shoulder all taped up and ready for blue and then one last time for my Yellow Highlights. Then I can mask and paint the EVA shoulder.

I need to sand the backside of the Commando shoulder and remove some of the paint where the print is going to connect to the ABS piece so that its a gray on gray weld when I do the ABS welding as mentioned above. I will probably print two smaller pieces and test on that just to make sure I can do it right.

That's all the update I have for you today, it's been a busy week. I really enjoy your guy's (and Gals) feedback so don't hesitate to write especially if you have advice, suggestions or STLs to share!

Vi Out!

 

[Viridiana Sovari]

Man I can't wait to show you all this!

I am very proud of how this came out. Admittedly I was far lasier (SP?) with the EVA shoulder detail than I was with the Commando Shoulder. It still turned out pretty well.

First off photos will the Masking tape still on.

ANNNNDDDD NOWWW the best part!

Then I added the Sticker

What do you think? I appreciate all the like from those following this post but please any advice/ feedback/ comments you have are greatly appreciated.

Lastly I promised a picture that shows the depth of the EVA shoulder.

Thank you all for the support you have give me over the years. This is probably the last post with photos for a few weeks. I need to sort out how to do my next prints which will most likely be thighs, shins, and boots before I take on the really big pieces. I need to get better at Blender. The biggest trouble I have is sizing the pieces within blender and then cutting them to fit the print bed. If I cut them and then try to size it on the print bed I will end up with uneven sized pieces that don't fit together. If anyone has advice or can help me with this I would really appreciate that.

Vi Out!

 

[Sean Anwalt]

I like it. I think a sanding job would go well to smooth it out and remove that grainy texture you get from a 3D print, but other than that I like the paint job, great decal placement, and it looks way cool.

 

[Viridiana Sovari]

I like it. I think a sanding job would go well to smooth it out and remove that grainy texture you get from a 3D print, but other than that I like the paint job, great decal placement, and it looks way cool.

Man trust me I sanded these bad boys a lot! it's so hard to get rid of the lines to a smooth texture, maybe if I switch to PLA it will turn out better? I'm sure my future pieces will be a lot better but thanks for the advice!

 

[TurboCharizard]

Man trust me I sanded these bad boys a lot! it's so hard to get rid of the lines to a smooth texture, maybe if I switch to PLA it will turn out better? I'm sure my future pieces will be a lot better but thanks for the advice!

Bad news for you, ABS generally sands easier than PLA/HDPLA/PLA+. The trick here is to sand and then start adding surface coatings to smooth out imperfections.

I use a combination of XTC-3D, Bondo, Bondo glazing putty and heavy body primers. Also sanding, so much sanding.

 

[Kula]

Im learning alot from this thread. Gonna try printing gauntlets in PETG.

 

[BryZad]

Just a heads up with solid armor parts be aware of pinch points if I wear my solid armor I have brusies after a day at a convention. Also I am not sure if it was touched on but you don't have to have a super high infill setting for parts. If you up the outer shells will give you a strong light part. Also will cut down on print time alot

 

[Viridiana Sovari]

Bad news for you, ABS generally sands easier than PLA/HDPLA/PLA+. The trick here is to sand and then start adding surface coatings to smooth out imperfections.

I use a combination of XTC-3D, Bondo, Bondo glazing putty and heavy body primers. Also sanding, so much sanding.

Got any tutorials? I could use the help.

Just a heads up with solid armor parts be aware of pinch points if I wear my solid armor I have brusies after a day at a convention. Also I am not sure if it was touched on but you don't have to have a super high infill setting for parts. If you up the outer shells will give you a strong light part. Also will cut down on print time alot

I do a 20% infil generally and only with a few pieces did I do a 2mm wall. I keep it really light but I like the 20% range because it gives it a really solid feeling. I know what you mean about pinch points, I have put the armor on my arms a few times and can already see where my problems are going to be.

 

[TurboCharizard]

Got any tutorials? I could use the help.



I do a 20% infil generally and only with a few pieces did I do a 2mm wall. I keep it really light but I like the 20% range because it gives it a really solid feeling. I know what you mean about pinch points, I have put the armor on my arms a few times and can already see where my problems are going to be.

Kind of?

Most of my builds that use 3D printed parts go through this process. If I need dimensional accuracy for the fit of pieces I'll skip out on the XTC-3D step though. I can definitely cover certain details in more depth if you have a specific aspect that you're unclear on.

24% infill seems to be my magic number on the Wanhao to prevent pillowing and 20% on the Tevo. 2mm boundary is intense though. Are you using a 0.4mm nozzle for your printer?

 

[Viridiana Sovari]

Kind of?

Most of my builds that use 3D printed parts go through this process. If I need dimensional accuracy for the fit of pieces I'll skip out on the XTC-3D step though. I can definitely cover certain details in more depth if you have a specific aspect that you're unclear on.

24% infill seems to be my magic number on the Wanhao to prevent pillowing and 20% on the Tevo. 2mm boundary is intense though. Are you using a 0.4mm nozzle for your printer?

I don't know what the nozzle size is off hand but I'm using 3mm ink. I'm using a lulzbot Taz 6 and I don't have two much of an issue with my print infills but as I've mentioned before I need to replace the PEI bed as it's bubbling and some prints give me trouble but that's usually because of the model

 

[eiros]

Another Southwest Regiment member! Your armor is coming along nicely! Where did you pick up the sticker?

 

[Viridiana Sovari]

Another Southwest Regiment member! Your armor is coming along nicely! Where did you pick up the sticker?

You can find them here! 405th Regiment Stickers
They were commissioned by the 405th to be made and sold.