1st Build Cody's ODST Build Thread

[PlanetAlexander]

Must be painful to do all that masking, but so well worth it!

 

[ODSTCody]

Must be painful to do all that masking, but so well worth it!

That's kind of you to say, thank you. And yeah, the masking is brutally tedious, but definitely achieves good results.

 

[ODSTCody]

Update time - way overdue, not just in the amount of time that's passed since my last one, but because I've procrastinated on making this post for the past five hours. Prepare for a lot of pictures.

Vacuum Forming:

Vacuum forming is the driving reason why I'm forfeiting going to the con that I started this project for (because my agenda with attending conventions is being able to go in costume and perhaps win some contests, especially since the convention in question doesn't seem to have anything catering to anybody other than furries and anime WEBELOS). I've gone through six, if not seven, sheets of PETG - only two visors have been removable, and both are plagued with problems (as in cracks and rough edges). I'm in critical need of tips to be able to cut out the visor and remove the buck, without damaging the buck or the visor.

Painting:

Painting has been just as tedious (it should be fun... unless you're me and you're doing a lot of repetitive hexagonal masking), but unlike the vac-forming, it's actually produced results. As of now, all of the relevant parts have been painted, though I still haven't clear coated or weathered any of it. One of the biggest changes I'll point out is that I wound up repainting the helmet (almost) entirely, because the original paint scheme was a little too light compared to everything else.

At the time I took many of these photos, I didn't have enough space on the workbench, and only now did I realize I could set the box (that the pieces arrived in) on the floor so I could have more room. Dopey me.

 

[BinaryHe1ix]

I was having a ton of problems with my visor as well. Not sure if you've already attempted this, but try laying it on the flat side like I circled in the picture attached. You might have to chop the base off or sand it down on that edge, I can't really tell from the images. The issue I had with mine was that the PETG was too thick and was trying to stretch too far. It has a lot of give, but that's a really tall buck and you might need a bigger sheet. I'm still a total novice with vacuum forming, so YMMV. Anyway, lay it on that flat edge and give it another pull BUT put a spacer underneath it. The one I used was about 3/4" thick, but you would probably be fine with 1/2" or so. It'll make the buck harder to remove but you should get all the detail you need in the areas that matter. The curved part at the top will definitely have extra but you can use that as material to use when attaching it to the visor. I ended up having to Dremel the buck out of it but ended up with a good visor afterward so it was worth it in the end. All the detail you need is in the front and side, which you should have no problems getting with the new orientation.

 

[ODSTCody]

Per recommendation from someone a few weeks ago, I did try what you're suggesting, laying it flat and having a piece of wood underneath it, sort of evening it out, but that attempt was much worse than the previous ones.

 

[BinaryHe1ix]

Per recommendation from someone a few weeks ago, I did try what you're suggesting, laying it flat and having a piece of wood underneath it, sort of evening it out, but that attempt was much worse than the previous ones.

Definitely strange. What thickness is the sheet? And how much sag are you getting in the sheet prior to making a pull? Laying flat should've given it less distance to stretch. In those pics it looks like it's getting cold around the halfway mark. I put mine on some risers around 2" high and didn't take it out until it was almost touching the oven rack. Would've waited longer but didn't have any taller risers.

 

[PlanetAlexander]

I've said it before and I'll say it again - I love that camo.

For the visor, could you make the section that comes in underneath the visor (the area that is kept) bulge out? Instead of coming in, it would instead stick out. That way instead of having a section that physically stops you from being able to lift it straight off, if it's coming out, it would slide off easier. If that's not clear I can quickly 3D model a demonstration.

 

[ODSTCody]

I've said it before and I'll say it again - I love that camo.

For the visor, could you make the section that comes in underneath the visor (the area that is kept) bulge out? Instead of coming in, it would instead stick out. That way instead of having a section that physically stops you from being able to lift it straight off, if it's coming out, it would slide off easier. If that's not clear I can quickly 3D model a demonstration.

I'm quite late to the response on this one (I took a bit of an absence from the 405th and cosplay overall), but I don't follow. If you'd still be willing to do a demo, that would be greatly appreciated since I'm mostly a visual learner. Also, thank you for the compliment on the hex camo.

Speaking of learning, there's something else I need to ask about: I've been attempting to learn foamsmithing, and I've started with the Heroes Workshop ODST helmet. Big mistake on my part, because while I put the front, top, and back of the helmet on with no difficult whatsoever, the sides - both the area with the gigantic space around it (as shown in the screenshots) and the side extensions/"cheeks" are giving me more trouble than necessary. Are there any experienced/capable foamsmithers out there who can get me on the right track for getting around this? I have difficulties visualizing how this is supposed to fit in place, and what the trick is that I'm just not seeing.

 

[N8TEBB]

It looks like for that part you are going to have to veer off the template. Take a look at some reference pictures of the side of the helmet, and look at the pieces you have to connect it to. Try to visualize the shape of foam you want, and then do your best to create that shape free hand. The templates are a great guide, but sometimes you have to fill in the gaps yourself - literally XD. Best of luck!

 

[PlanetAlexander]

I'm quite late to the response on this one (I took a bit of an absence from the 405th and cosplay overall), but I don't follow. If you'd still be willing to do a demo, that would be greatly appreciated since I'm mostly a visual learner. Also, thank you for the compliment on the hex camo.

The problem with the buck at the moment is that part of it concaves into itself, which means the plastic starts to enclose on the buck, preventing easy removal. Here's a rough mockup:

What you would need to do, then, is modify the files so that that concave section actually sticks out, like so:

This will stop the plastic from forming around the buck in such a way that would make removal harder.

Alternatively, you could have the two parts actually flush around the edge, with a small groove, that will define where the edge of the form is.

 

[N8TEBB]

What you would need to do, then, is modify the files so that that concave section actually sticks out, like so:

This can also be done with modelling clay if you don't want to go through the trouble of re printing!

 

[PlanetAlexander]

This can also be done with modelling clay if you don't want to go through the trouble of re printing!

Good idea, though you just have to make sure the clay you use is both heat resistant, and can withstand the force of the plastic being pulled down on it

 

[ODSTCody]

How interesting. I didn't realize this was an option. I really, really don't want to reprint the visor buck. Thanks for the tips, guys.

 

[ODSTCody]

As a side note-slash-status update, I've made considerable progress with my foam ODST build, and can now safely say I prefer this to 3D printing, at least with the right templates.

What I've made so far isn't professional-grade quality by other's standards, but compared to my previous attempts at foamsmithing, it absolutely is. So far, I've finished the helmet and both thighs. Note that for the photos of the thigh armor, I don't have an awkwardly wide stance - I was deliberately standing with my legs spread so the thigh armor would be more visible.

Also re: the helmet, I bought a transparent Sean Bradley ODST visor recently, with my intent being to see if it fit my 3D printed helmet. It didn't, but it actually fits this one very nicely, and I'm considering using it (even if not this particular visor) for my foam helmet.

I've started the chest rig, and overall, things are going great - the one thing I'm having issues with is the thigh pieces sliding down towards my knees, and I'm not sure how to keep them in place. Any suggestions on how to do so would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Cadet]

I've started the chest rig, and overall, things are going great - the one thing I'm having issues with is the thigh pieces sliding down towards my knees, and I'm not sure how to keep them in place. Any suggestions on how to do so would be greatly appreciated.

You are going to to want to strap your thighs to a belt system. For example, on my ODST I have a set loop of webbing glued in on the inside of the Thigh. The belt I wear on my BDU style pants is then threaded through this, along with the normal belt loops on the pants. I then wear an additional pair of suspenders to help keep my pants up, as my thigs are currently a little heavy due to the thickness of leather I used to make my inner ribbing material. However, if your thigh pieces are foam, they could be light enough to simply be kept up by the tightness of the belt.

This strap from thigh to belt system, referred to as a garter system sometimes, is a very common technique, used by most of the ODSTs, SPARTANs, and other armored costumes like Stormtroopers, Clonetroopers, et cetera.

Strapping Guide: Making, and sizing it.

SO, I have had a few people asking about strapping recently. After making several suits for my husband @Kusak , I have learned a few things on what has worked for us. So, when @Lobbster contacted me to help him make his strapping I jumped on it. Our plan is to place the strapping inside his...

www.405th.com

 

[ODSTCody]

You are going to to want to strap your thighs to a belt system. For example, on my ODST I have a set loop of webbing glued in on the inside of the Thigh. The belt I wear on my BDU style pants is then threaded through this, along with the normal belt loops on the pants. I then wear an additional pair of suspenders to help keep my pants up, as my thigs are currently a little heavy due to the thickness of leather I used to make my inner ribbing material. However, if your thigh pieces are foam, they could be light enough to simply be kept up by the tightness of the belt.

This strap from thigh to belt system, referred to as a garter system sometimes, is a very common technique, used by most of the ODSTs, SPARTANs, and other armored costumes like Stormtroopers, Clonetroopers, et cetera.

Strapping Guide: Making, and sizing it.

SO, I have had a few people asking about strapping recently. After making several suits for my husband @Kusak , I have learned a few things on what has worked for us. So, when @Lobbster contacted me to help him make his strapping I jumped on it. Our plan is to place the strapping inside his...

www.405th.com

I reckon that's what I'll do then. Some members on Discord said that my two options were basically either A) alter my pants and add Velcro to them; or B) strap the thighs to a belt, and the former was out of the question. Thank you for sharing your insight/perspective.

 

[N8TEBB]

and can now safely say I prefer this to 3D printing

New foam armour enjoyer FOR THE WIN!!!
I know right?! The flexibility foam armour gives is just fantastic!

one thing I'm having issues with is the thigh pieces sliding down towards my knees, and I'm not sure how to keep them in place.

I'm a strap-em-to-a-belt guy all the way. This allows the thigh pieces to slip down when you want to sit, and then they fall right back in to place when you get up. If they were attached with Velcro, they wouldn't be able to move around

 

[ODSTCody]

I got a little spontaneous. Right from the get-go, I was determined to have a helmet variant rather than just the stock ODST helmet, and I was initially thinking either Buck (because I have 3D files for his CNM) or Romeo (because I have foam files for his goggles), but then I just had the overwhelming urge to do Dutch's UA helmet, and even though I didn't have templates available to me, I got creative with it and I'm pleased with the results. I didn't stop to think, I just did it.

I also seek the wisdom of those more paint-savvy than me - for personalized markings, I was considering either a dull orange or a lime green, but I'm not sure which would have better contrast and look cooler. Any suggestions?