"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo

Discussion in 'New Recruits' started by 23Magnum, Aug 20, 2010.

  1. FlyinPhil

    FlyinPhil Marketplace Supervisor Division Staff

    I don't have any experience with the stuff, but it seems like more of a strong clear coat than what we need to harden pep models. I can for sure say that this wouldn't be thick enough to absorb into any fiberglass cloth or mat, and it's hard to say if it would even be sufficient for the first layer to harden a pep model. It the stuff is cheap, it wouldnt hurt to test it out on some cardstock!

    As for the efficiency part of it though, think in terms of spray paint. I guarantee you I go through a lot more spray paint than I would brushing on paint, due to overspray, clearing the nozzle after painting, and the fact that 1/2-2/3 of my paint ends up on my masking tape or the surface my model is sitting on.
     
  2. Jason 078

    Jason 078

    This is what the "official description" says about it. It might be interesting to try it out as an initial hardener. It would save some time having to go through with a razor blade to fix pools of brush-on.
     
  3. Dracosfire83

    Dracosfire83

    I can picture a few people welding their project to the table with the spray.
     
    FlyinPhil likes this.
  4. Squirtle12

    Squirtle12 New Member

    I'm planning on making a scout helmet/gear and making it using resin. I don't know what product I need to make the resin plz help
     
  5. FlyinPhil

    FlyinPhil Marketplace Supervisor Division Staff

    It sounds like you need to do a little more reading, friend! But let me say, welcome to the forums! Keep in mind that pretty much all questions you might have have already been answered in different threads on the forum, you just have to take lots of time to read through and find out the info you need.

    That being said, let me help you get on track. So there are two main types of resin that are popular for hardening pep builds. The first, which is what I use, is polyester resin. It is often called fiberglass resin, amd is relatively cheap to purchase (in North America anyway) and can be found at most big hardware stores and autobody supply stores. The downfall is that it is quite toxic in liquid form, and you can only use it in a well ventilated area with proper protective gear on.

    The other good option is epoxy resin. It is a little harder to find, though is readily available online. It is more expensive than fiberglass resin, but is generally non toxic and can be used without a respirator.
     
  6. PEPAKURA TURTLE

    PEPAKURA TURTLE

    I heard that people use both rondo and fiberglass, but I was wondering, which one is harder?* ps someone might have posted a question like this before, I haven't read all of the 128 pages of faq yet lol
     
  7. Meatwad

    Meatwad Jr Member

    Fiberglass is harder. They're typically used in conjuction. Rondo first to make a smooth surface, and then fiberglass to add the real strength.
     
  8. Rooster

    Rooster New Member

    So I'm working on an ODST helmet and I'm having a lot of trouble glassing the sharper angles. Is there a specific technique to getting those smooth and minimizing bubbles?
     
  9. bran3nbusby117

    bran3nbusby117 New Member

    ok so i am just coming to the fiberglass portion of my spartan locke helmet and dont know what fiberglass resin is labled as or where to get it, cna anyone help me out
     
  10. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke

    It is generally labeled as Fiberglass Resin, but is more accurately called Polyester Resin since it does not actually contain fiberglass. Bondo brand makes one that is easy to find and labeled as fiberglass resin. Any brand will work fine. As where to get it, it depends on where you live I'm sure. If in the US then Walmart or Home Depot/Lowes will be your best bet. Otherwise find a home improvement store, boat repair store, or auto repair store.
     
  11. ThomasMartel

    ThomasMartel New Member

    I am working on my rogue helmet and one side of the visor dropped, but the other side stayed where it is supposed to be. I have already fiberglassed both sides and I don't think bondo will be able to fix this one. Is there a way to reheat the resin and bend it back to where it should be?
     
  12. Frozensnot

    Frozensnot

    As far as I know, there is no way to re-heat resin that already had the catalyst mixed in. It's in a permanent shape and cannot be reformed.

    Maybe I'm not seeing it but just from looking at your pictures in your thread, the helmet looks fine. Could you perhaps take a couple more photos to show the deformity you mentioned?
     
  13. ThomasMartel

    ThomasMartel New Member

    IMAG0672[1].jpg
    If you look closely there is a slight rise to one side, but I decided it was negligible and moved on. Now I'm bondoing and it is quite the learning experience. I am having trouble keeping my nice 90 degree corners and preventing it from leveling out the small rises in the helmet.

    Any help on the 90 degree corner problem would be great.(see my full post for more detail)

    IMAG0672[1].jpg
     
  14. FlyinPhil

    FlyinPhil Marketplace Supervisor Division Staff

    Try putting your bondo on waaaay thinner. If you lay your bondo on any thicker than 1-2mm at a time, it is a real pain to shape. Also, pep models have a lot of the details all set and don't need much more tweaking (I learned this somewhat the hard way). Not all of your model needs bondo layered over it, only parts that need rounding and smoothing. Good luck!
     
  15. caspieee

    caspieee New Member

    Hey guys, realized I can just ask rather than try to find some long gone post that tries to be what I am asking. I was wondering that if you do a pepakura of shoulders for example, how do you resin the inside of the pepakura involves closing it off to make a complete object. Simplified down: If I was making a dice, how do resin the inside of the dice. Thanks for the help!
     
  16. FlyinPhil

    FlyinPhil Marketplace Supervisor Division Staff

    There are two ways you can go about this. They both start with you coating the outside with a layer of resin. So for the first option, you drill a small hole (or multiple holes) and pour in your choice of resin, rondo, etc.

    For the second option, you can now cut your semi hardened model into parts to harden the inside, then bond the parts back together. Keep in mind you have to be very careful to avoid the parts warping, making it challenging to fit back together.
     
  17. caspieee

    caspieee New Member


    Thanks a bunch Phil. I have been looking at some shoulder pieces that are "3-D" in that sense and it's nice to have a place to get info. Thanks for being cool.
     
    FlyinPhil likes this.
  18. Fllschrimjager

    Fllschrimjager

    Ok I have a question for everyone. I was wondering about bondo for I have done a lot of sanding with some decently low grit but I still have some grooves in the helmet how does everyone get there bondo so smooth and what do you put on over bondo if you do put anything?
     
  19. CommanderPalmer

    CommanderPalmer Membership Officer

    You can sand it with low grit like 40, 80 but for details use higher grit... 120, 200 +. Then spray the primer :)

    Personally I like the "scratched" look by the low grit.
     
  20. PerniciousDuke

    PerniciousDuke

    Like @Marawuff said, but I don't think she went fine enough. As low as 40 grit to knock the high spots and then step up in increments, next 80 grit, next 150 grit, next 320 grit. You don't want to make too big of jumps or you'll clog up your sandpaper too fast. To get it super smooth you are going to want to do 320 grit or finer. I think they go as fine as 6000! And then yes, primer it, then paint it. You can even put a clear coat of enamel on there at the end to give it a little protection.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 22, 2017
  21. Fllschrimjager

    Fllschrimjager

    Thanks for the help i will see how this all turns out hope for the best.
     
    PerniciousDuke likes this.
  22. CommanderPalmer

    CommanderPalmer Membership Officer

    Yeah, with 40-80 you'll leave "scratch-marks", which is fine for me as it counts on my build as battle damage and I don't want to achieve perfectly polished pieces.
    For polishing you use 200+ or even 800. Depends how smooth you want the surface to be. The higher the finer the surface will be.
     
  23. Elias

    Elias New Member

    I truly hope I'm not asking something that was asked already, but do any of you have experience with Smooth-On's Plasti-Paste? I'm planning to use it since it already contains fiberglass-fibers, but I'm not sure if it's something you guys would recommend.
     
  24. Jumper

    Jumper New Member

    I have made my helmet using pep, paper, and scotch tape. will the scotch tape cause problems with the hardening process and if so what can i do to fix it.
    12658053_1128386090528027_7136769667256187806_o.jpg

    12658053_1128386090528027_7136769667256187806_o.jpg
     
  25. RobotChicken

    RobotChicken

    The tape will probably dissolve from the resin, or at least its adhesive likely will. The pep model should be glued together, not taped.
     
    PerniciousDuke likes this.

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