"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo

Discussion in 'New Recruits' started by 23Magnum, Aug 20, 2010.

  1. Tom117

    Tom117 New Member

    thank you! youve been most helpful as always! im sure google will come up with some Epoxy resin :D take care!
  2. GeekGuardianDee


    I wanted to pick the brains of the more experienced makers here, hopefully this comes across your feed. I am looking for confirmation of the construction materials I am planning on using for my build. Here is my current plan:

    The plan is to use 1-2 layers of hardening resin on the pepakura skeleton, 1 layer of fiberglass on the inside,1 layer of Rondo (50%/50% Resin & Bondo slush) to smooth the inside, and Bondo on the outside for smoothing / sculpting.

    Will these materials provide;
    • enough tensile strength to withstand pulling at connection points during removal and strenuous movement (ie. jumping, running, posing, etc.), and
    • enough compression strength to withstand strenuous movement and weight bearing (ie. carrying a toddler against the chest piece), and
    • enough impact resistance to prevent gouges (ie. from toddler attempting to stab my gear with a fork)?

    I am trying to achieve a balance of strength to weight by using higher quality materials. Do the materials listed above fit the bill? Or am I better off to spend less money on materials, just go with more layers of S-cloth, and suck it up when its heavy?

    Thanks for your input. If you are wanting more specific about the build I am considering this for you can go to my build thread at: Commander Sarah Palmer - Scout variant of the MJOLNIR GEN2

    P.S. I have put some time into trying to resolve this question myself, but have not come across any clear data tables listing the various strengths of fiberglass cloths while keeping all other variables stable. All data I have collected is directly related to the marine and automotive industry and does not exactly match the use and difficulties expected for cosplay armor. This is the information I have used to deduce that one layer of 7 oz. carbon-kevlar should have enough relative strength to 20 oz. e-glass, but still would like some confirmation.
  3. SirPalesAlot


    I'm certainly no expert when it comes to the numbers, but I do believe rondo on the inside would not be such a great idea. If you are using the rondo to smooth out the interior it will work, but it adds weight and isn't nearly as strong as some other products out there. If you must have the interior smooth I would suggest using an urethane resin to get the job done. You can then have a smooth interior and it will give the part more strength.
  4. MrJoeyGamez

    MrJoeyGamez New Member

    I don't have resin or fiberglass, is there a substitute?
  5. colbs


    Paper mache
  6. Aerdan

    Aerdan New Member

    I'm working on my MK VI armor, and its going pretty well so far. The only thing I'm worried about the most is the resining, my mom said that I don't need a mask if I do it all outside. Anyways, I would like to know what I'm going to need exactly, oh and is Body filler NECIESSARY? I'm not on a tight budget, but I don't want to spend alot of $$$ if its not neciessary.....
  7. Halo Master

    Halo Master

    You will still need a respirator even when your working outside. Bodyfiller isnt necessary, but it will make your suit look better.
  8. Chernobyl


    Get a respirator - if you don't buy anything else for your build and walk out into the streets tomorrow without painting or smoothing it, buy a respirator. You simply cannot cheapskate your own personal health, trust me on this. Even in well-ventilated areas, resin fumes will make you dizzy, make you ill, and eventually, cause life-long complications to your health if inhaled for longer durations.

    Don't risk your health on a few dollars - go and buy a decent, vapour-rated chemical respirator. Your lungs will thank you for it.

    As for bondo: yes, strictly speaking you can go without it. If you're throwing something together for an event, like Halloween, then by all means, skip the bondo. However, your armour will benefit far more from a decent coat of something to smooth those hard edges over and make the set look better - if you're going to do something, might as well go all the way.

    Good luck with your build, Spartan.
    Starrmont likes this.
  9. Aerdan

    Aerdan New Member

    thanks! Yeah I'll get a respirator. What resin brand and fiberglass should I get? I was going to do bondo but I didn't know ifit was necessary.
  10. Chernobyl


    Your fibreglass brands will differ by location, so I can't really advise you, I'm afraid.
  11. Aerdan

    Aerdan New Member

    I got all my stuff for the resin stage. How am I going to do it? I bought: Fiberglass Repair Kit, 2 packs of Fiberglass Cloth 3M, and all my brushes. Do I put the cloth on the whole thing or in the inside? cause I see poepl only resin the outside and sometimes use the cloth on the inside..
  12. NightHawk

    NightHawk New Member

    Okay so I got my helmet going. Did fiber glass resin on the outside looks nice and pretty and solid. Have yet to do the inside since I just let the helmet sit and cure today. My Fiancé and I are wondering how should we do the inside. We have witnessed videos and advice on several options. These options include; #1 Resin and fiber glass mat/fiber on inside, #2 Resin and Fiber glass mat/fiber let it settle then Bondo the inside, #3 Use the body filler bondo and resin mix it to get a pudding like texture and poor into the interior of helmet and spread it... Me and my Fiancé like the Rondo (body filler / resin mixture) to create a smoothish interior and work with it from there versus the resin.

    Also im wanting some advice on the interior of the helmet. There are tags ofc where the helmet is attached I was wondering should I trims / remove them to it allows me more room to add things inside the helmet such as padding or electronics. This will be don't mostly the top half of the helmet (ODST HELMET) or should I just leave them as such and work around it?
  13. RagnarConture

    RagnarConture New Member

    Hello, I am a long time reader, first time poster. Once upon a time i started an EOD build but was never able to finish it as i was in the armed forces over seas. I am thinking about starting over, and have read and watched different tuts using the carbon fiber, but i was wondering would it be possible to use kydex as well? for those that dont know waht kydex is, it is a thermoplastic acrylic polyvinyl that can be used to make knife sheaths and firearm holsters.Would it be possible to use this to make the outside if the armor, and use carbon fiber for the inside?
  14. Oxide

    Oxide New Member

    Hey there, thought I would post here with a few questions I've got as I've run into a few problems with my current piece.

    Right now I'm working on a fully enclosed weapon, I've got a few cardboard support struts that I built into it along with two layers of resin on the surface. Now its been impossibly cold lately and the resin is taking its time to harden, if it ever will due to me not wanting to wait for it to get warm and I'm trying to decide the best way to go about hardening the piece further. The only two idea's that would make sense would be rondo and expanding foam, but I'm not sure which would be better suited to the task, as I've never used rondo or expanding foam.

    is one more advantageous then the other? should I bring my piece into my house and do another coat of resin to harden the outside that much more?
  15. RobTC


    Rondo would naturally get quite warm of its own accord, which could help cure the external resin, but if your outside shell isn't hard, then putting anything inside is going to deform the piece. Patience is imperative for good results; just find a way to cure the hard shell first. If you can set your oven to a very low temperature like 100F (and you're using VOC-free epoxy resin, not thinned or polyester), you could use that, or build a cheap insulation foam enclosure that you blow warm air into from a heat gun, which can also be used to accelerate paint drying. There are always ways of circumventing the weather!
  16. ErMaC


    can you post a picture of your build. I have a solution for a fully enclosed item to that needs to be hardened on the inside so I can tell you exactly what to do.
  17. Turse

    Turse New Member

    Hey, I am new to doing this and I have started to make my first helmet (halo warrior helmet) and I want to know how people make their helmet a smooth grey colour. I have done the resin an bondo layer and sanded it down but all it looks like is a reddish brown colour. I see all the videos but they don't show how the grey colour comes along. Should I use a primer or is there something else that I should do?

    Some help please?
  18. RobotChicken


    Grey primer.
  19. shadow001

    shadow001 New Member

    Hey there 23Magnum. I happen to know a good DIY website called instructables.They have a huge range of projects that people have done already. All you have to do is type in the search bar "how to..." and then finish it off with what is your looking for. The link is posted below. Hope this helps you. www.instructables.com
  20. ownedkapoo


    I havent used this in a while and the cap is stuck. I used a monkey wrench to get it open once before when I had the same problem but now the cap will barely budge. How do I get this cap off?

  21. cyberdemon35


    Id just stick the cap in a vice and twist the can gives you more leverage.
  22. ColdAdamantium


    Hey all!

    So i'm almost at the resin stage on my H4 Soldier helmet, and i'm curious about something..
    Im going to leave the visor portion blank (as in not pepping and res-ing it just to cut it out after), and I've heard that people are using smaller pieces of materials as splints to keep the helmet from drooping/sagging where the visor will go.... My question here is, if i taped some splints on the inside of the helm to keep the proper shape, will the resin soak through and loosen/remove the tape?
  23. OT7OM4N

    OT7OM4N New Member

    I've recently finished the fibreglassing on my H4 Chief helmet. I went about it by including the visor in the pep work then fibreglass the whole thing and used a dremel to cut it out afterwards. Worked out well for me and meant I didn't have to work around problems with splints. My advice, if you do go down that route, is to make sure to spread the resin thinly rather than slapping it on. Good luck!
  24. ColdAdamantium


    Maybe i'll just do it this way. Better to get it right the first time lol
    Thanks for the feedback OT7OM4N
  25. ownedkapoo


    resin spray.jpg
    Does anyone have any experience with this resin spray stuff? Is it any more efficient than liquid resin? Id imagine it would knowing you dont need to mix resin with hardener in a cup and all that prep work, but how would you rondo/fiberglass the inside with the resin spray?

    resin spray.jpg

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