"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo

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Is there an alternative to Bondo when it comes to detailing? I just almost ruined a pepakura (with resin and fiberglas enforcement) recon helmet that I made twice for scaling. I Resined an entire suit and reinforced the inside with fiberglas. Now I'm stuck. This Bondo is absurd. I'm a pretty good sculptor so I was wondering if anybody tried to detail with Plumbers putty or something. Does Plumbers Putty even Solidify? Or how long would it take to solidify? Plumbers epoxy isn't economical because it's expensive for small amounts. Is there something like clay? But much lighter obviously. I really want to perfect this suit but I need a detailing material. Thanks for any help!

I don't know of any alternative to Bondo (except Rondo). However, it's best to apply the Bondo/ Rondo in very thin layers, and get some good power tools, like a good dremel and mouse sander. Also, don't slather the whole thing in Bondo. Only cover the sections that need to be smoothed.
 
Sorry if this has been done and dusted but I just jumped to the end of the thread.
I live in Australia and am unsure where to get Bondo...or even what it is and how it works. It's the one thing stopping me from starting. Well that and I don't have a schematic for the type of armour I wish to make (Warhammer 40k Space Marine Mk V "Heresy" armour)
 
Sorry if this has been done and dusted but I just jumped to the end of the thread.
I live in Australia and am unsure where to get Bondo...or even what it is and how it works. It's the one thing stopping me from starting. Well that and I don't have a schematic for the type of armour I wish to make (Warhammer 40k Space Marine Mk V "Heresy" armour)

Bondo is a catch-all term for auto filler. Any brand will do. What you want is auto filler.
 
i was resinning today and i accidently got some on my forearm and it has dried. i am wondering what the best way to get it off is and will cause in harm to my skin
 
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i was resinning today and i accidently got some on my forearm and it has dried. i am wondering what the best way to get it off is and will cause in harm to my skin

The only way to get it to come off is to remove the skin. If you don't feel like carving out your skin, just wait a few days and it will fall off. There's no harm waiting for it to fall off.
 
The only way to get it to come off is to remove the skin. If you don't feel like carving out your skin, just wait a few days and it will fall off. There's no harm waiting for it to fall off.
no, i definatly dont want to do that. it looks like it starting to come off now so thanks for the advice
 
thank you for answering these questions, i am new to the site as well and am hoping to resin soon! Just a question i have, i did not use the pepakura method, and instead used a compressed cardboard material that is pretty thin and sturdy. What type of resin is best for this material? i also used hot glue to cement the pieces together.
 
thank you for answering these questions, i am new to the site as well and am hoping to resin soon! Just a question i have, i did not use the pepakura method, and instead used a compressed cardboard material that is pretty thin and sturdy. What type of resin is best for this material? i also used hot glue to cement the pieces together.

I would just use your standard polyester resin (Fiberglass resin). You will most likely need a lot of it. You should do a test piece first, just to see how it takes. I watched your video and maybe you could test the shin you were planning on rebuilding, that way if there is an issue you don’t destroy all the awesomeness you have created. I’m pretty sure the resin will take to the compressed card board stuff you are using well. It looks real sturdy. However, I would take the same approach as the pepakura. Do some light layers of resin first on the outside, to strengthen further, then coat the inside with resin, then fiber glass it (Recommended). Also, I’ve seen others use card board and it tends to suck down the resin fast, but then again it’s not the compressed stuff (standard box type).
 
It has to be a certain temperature, a breeze might speed up the proccess a little bit but only if it was warm enough outside.

It's a chemical reaction between the resin and it's catalyst and it won't occur at lower temperatures. So yeah, you either need a heatbox or just wait till spring.
 
i am about to glass the inside of my helmet. and i was wondering weather or not i should wear a respirator while i cut the cloth into strips before i take it outside to apply the resin to the pieces. stupid question i know, but i want to be sure i am taking all the necassary safety precautions
 
I got a quick question. I resined a helmet, but the resin is still a little sticky (24 hours later). Its good weather and everything so i know its not just impatience, but i was wondering, can i use a little extra hardener on it even once its dried?
would it have any effect at all, and if so a good one? and also, should i water it down?
 
i am about to glass the inside of my helmet. and i was wondering weather or not i should wear a respirator while i cut the cloth into strips before i take it outside to apply the resin to the pieces.
For cloth, no. If you're using mat, yes or at least wear a face/dust mask.

I got a quick question. I resined a helmet, but the resin is still a little sticky (24 hours later). Its good weather and everything so i know its not just impatience, but i was wondering, can i use a little extra hardener on it even once its dried? would it have any effect at all, and if so a good one?
No. Too late for that idea. Use talcum powder instead. It usually helps.

and also, should i water it down?
Water it down? I'm not sure what you mean by this.
 
I meant like water the catalyst down a little bit. I didnt know if the full strength stuff would have an adverse effect like making it too brittle or what ever, but i guess not.
Thanks for the help.
 
i am about to glass the inside of my helmet. and i was wondering weather or not i should wear a respirator while i cut the cloth into strips before i take it outside to apply the resin to the pieces. stupid question i know, but i want to be sure i am taking all the necassary safety precautions

A particle filter certainly is a good idea.

I meant like water the catalyst down a little bit. I didnt know if the full strength stuff would have an adverse effect like making it too brittle or what ever, but i guess not.

Don't mix it with water.
 
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