SergantTinkers
Jr Member
Got a quick question on paint preference: Should I buy gloss paint or satin paint? I would imagine the latter, but I just want to be sure.
"Help!" for: Painting
- Thread starter 23Magnum
- Start date
- Status
Jason 078
Well-Known Member
The paint type is important, but most of the armors and such as shown in the games would be satin. However, it also depends on whether or not you plan to finish it. If you finish it, then you should use satin finish. For a more realistic look, give it a satin finish and then take a flat finish and spray a light couple of layers from twice the normal distance (letting it just spot on rather than coating it evenly). That will give it more of the uneven used look.
Hi I have a few quick questions to knock out. If I lay down a silver base coat over my primer will it make my next coat (blue paint) have a metallic sheen to it? If not what would be a technique I could use. Also how do you do a damaged affect to make your armor look battle worn or just used?
Caboose vs Grif
Well-Known Member
- Member DIN
- S737
The silver paint should not affect the blue paint. One way to do battle damage is by putting little globs of Vaseline on the silver paint after it dries. Then spray the blue paint on top (NOT REMOVING THE VASELINE), then after the blue paint dries, wipe away the Vaseline and PRESTO!!... you have battle damage. Another way is to paint the armor piece of your choice and take a brush, spray silver paint on it the lightly scratch the surface of the armor. This is the method that I used on my armor.
Skullptura
Member
I was searching youtube looking at instructional videos on painting techniques and found one that used Vaseline. The only difference was, they mixed in sand as well. That allowed the vaseline to stay where it was and not move or squish during the painting process. Dig around the instructional threads they might have a link to it. Or just look it up on Youtube. The end result was spectacular!
relaxis
New Member
Hi guys, on the iphone so sorry if this topic has been covered before. I'm hoping to find a way to get that autobody colour look (like cars) in red on armour parts crated with polyester putty, is it down to the individual spray paints or is there body work underneath that needs to be done to get that look?
Nevermind to my previous question, as I found a tutorial... However, I had already went ahead and primed my piece. I used to wrong primer. There are some runs that I can sand down. After that, would I be able to just put grey automotive primer on top of the previous layer (which is white), or do I need to strip the other primer completely off?
SergantTinkers
Jr Member
I think using another layer of primer would be fine, as long as the surface is even. But, someone else please verify this, if you wouldn't mind.
spn phoenix 92
New Member
I'm making a set of armor that is dark grey/crimson, and I cannot find any spraypaint the color of what I want, the closest I can find is the dark grey automotive primer from rustoleum that is commonly used across the forums. If I used an extra coat of the primer and made sure that I added a flat clear coat afterwards, would it be alright to use instead of paint?
spn phoenix 92
New Member
The way I do weathering is just rubbing some watered down black acrylic paint in the cracks, and then using a brush to apply silver to the edges for scratches. I'm gonna check other places for paint this week, it's a hard color to come by. I did find some, but it was gloss. I want to use flat paint for my suit.
Any foam experts here?
I'm at the Confused-as-hell phase when it's coming to sealing + Painting my armor. Mainly sealing.
Plasti-Dip's starting to hurt my wallet. so I want to explore other options, I was wondering if I could use latex paint directly as a sealer, or if other cost-effective, yet durable methods are available. I've also eyed a few other options like Foam Coat + Bounce.
Unfortunately, Flexbond and TTR Sealant don't exactly seam too budget friendly.
I'm already doing the Resin + PVA glue method for the non-flex pieces, but I'm going to need some flex in the endoskeleton, abs, biceps, thighs, and shoes.
Thoughts?
I'm at the Confused-as-hell phase when it's coming to sealing + Painting my armor. Mainly sealing.
Plasti-Dip's starting to hurt my wallet. so I want to explore other options, I was wondering if I could use latex paint directly as a sealer, or if other cost-effective, yet durable methods are available. I've also eyed a few other options like Foam Coat + Bounce.
Unfortunately, Flexbond and TTR Sealant don't exactly seam too budget friendly.
I'm already doing the Resin + PVA glue method for the non-flex pieces, but I'm going to need some flex in the endoskeleton, abs, biceps, thighs, and shoes.
Thoughts?
Hi there... question:
I have a small problem with my helmet. I've primered, wet sanded at 220, fixed some stuff with bondo and primered again, but now after a second wet sand at 400, I'm seeing little bits of paper from the corners (low def helm) that have worn through from the sanding. They don't take the primer very well anymore, and overall stick out from the smooth bondo finish. Is there anything I can do to get rid of them (short of digging them out and bondoing every single one) before I put down final color?
I can post pics if need be.
I have a small problem with my helmet. I've primered, wet sanded at 220, fixed some stuff with bondo and primered again, but now after a second wet sand at 400, I'm seeing little bits of paper from the corners (low def helm) that have worn through from the sanding. They don't take the primer very well anymore, and overall stick out from the smooth bondo finish. Is there anything I can do to get rid of them (short of digging them out and bondoing every single one) before I put down final color?
I can post pics if need be.
SergantTinkers
Jr Member
What you can do is try to apply resin to the areas. After the resin hardens, make sure the resin is not noticeable by sanding down the area around the area. Hopefully, it will seep into the paper and make it strong enough once more. If this doesn't work, then using spot putty or bondo would probably be your only options.
- Status
