"Help!" for: Painting

Discussion in 'New Recruits' started by 23Magnum, Aug 20, 2010.

  1. Carpathia


    Very well put, Katsu.
  2. Zaff


    Plus the simple fact that your question has most likely already been asked, and answered, at least once before, and rather than even saying "I couldn't find it" you come out with "I have better things to do than waste my precious time looking for the answer." You're not the first person to come here. Obviously. You're not the first person to ask about weathering techniques, which also would be obvious had you bothered to look. At all. But you've made it fairly clear that you have not, and will not, bother to look. At all. You want things handed to you, and instead of taking anything that anyone is saying to heart, you insist on standing there, snapping your fingers, demanding people hand you everything on silver platter.

    As Katsu put it so accurately, this is a "do it yourself" community. By its very nature that means you have to put some effort in of your own beyond just the "fun" part of actually building, painting, and wearing the armor. Again, we would all love to have nothing better to do than sit around building an armory of our favorite pieces, but that's not reality. And those who are making progress on their armor and getting help with their questions are the ones who have searched high and low and yes, even made a few attempts of their own before ever posting in the help threads. They've voiced what they intend to do, or what they've already tried to do, and asked for feedback, tips, and other such information. Again referring back to Katsu's post, you'll get much farther and much better results if you put in an effort, at least as much of an effort as it takes to ask more specific questions and give some details about what you're trying for. You haven't even bothered to clarify whether you're looking for "scuffed paint" weathering, "black wash" weathering, "high point" weathering, "fade" weathering, "battle damage" weathering, "burn/plasma" weathering...there are so many different types of weathering, each of which (again as Katsu mentioned) has several different techniques and approaches. So basically what you're asking isn't as simple as "what do I do," you're basically asking people to put their lives on hold so custom cater the perfect method for you, without giving them any information on what kind of method you're even looking for. Sponges, bristle brushes, sponge brushes, air brushes, spray cans, the list of potential materials alone can be vast.

    And let's not forget that you've already been given an answer as to how weathering can be done (not the only way, but at least one way), and rather than show any gratitude for that or asking specific questions about that method to better understand it, you just complain that you don't get it and go right back to demanding someone drop something in your lap.

    And yet again, you could probably have found all the answers you want, quite likely every last post on the forum that even mentions any kind of weathering, in half the time you've spent whining about people not repeating themselves for the umpteenth time at the snap of your fingers.

    I'm sorry to be so blunt about it, but seriously, what does it take to get the message through that everything you need is already here, you just have to LOOK.
  3. Fluffy Kittens

    Fluffy Kittens New Member

    First off, I would like to apologize for being demanding and rude. Thank you for showing me how I was offending people. I will try to be more humble in the future.

    I didn't know that their were so many weathering terms. I was thinking more about making it look dirty. Like as if I crawled through mud in it. I already made it very battle damaged with a wood-burning tool and it looks too clean. Thanks for your time!
  4. Katsu


    Dirty weathering you could either do with an airbrush or... err I prefer airbrush for that application. By doing different types of mixtures you can get interesting effects like speckling or a natural fade of brown. Also, blackwashing would be very beneficial if you do it right, as it can give a "rougher" look to the piece.


    Those are two that I did a little dirty weathering to. A blackwash on the pistol, and scorching on the Y-Wing. I went a bit overboard on the y-wing, but I had just bought my airbrush and was excited to use it.
    On the pistol you can see it has an uneven "shadowing" going on that makes it look like more worn metal, it started out as solid silver and a bit bright before the blackwash but I didn't photograph that.

    They're not GREAT paint jobs, but they may give you some more direction

    However, airbrushing would be two dimensional. If you want grit and the like, you'd probably need to look into something else.

    This is someone else's build that has some washing and airbrush effects on it:

    From what I can see, they did a black wash, and then did a dark spray around the vents.

    Airbrushes can be expensive ( an airbrush, hosing, paints and an air pump.. 50-100 on the low end, 100-300 on the mid range ), but they're like dremels where they can prove themselves to be invaluable if you intend to do a lot of this stuff. Otherwise, a paintbrush and a lot of careful skill and patience.
  5. Fluffy Kittens

    Fluffy Kittens New Member

    Not that great? I think the look amazing!

    So would paintbrushing then spreading it out with a sponge work? Also, are their any specific methods on how to make it look natural? Thanks in advance!
  6. SaltyGoat

    SaltyGoat New Member

    For a flash burn look, try using some "crackle" finish paint (available at most craft stores). It gives a interesting blistered look and, with a little weathering previously described, it can look very realistic.
  7. Carpathia


    Do you have any pictures of this method? I'm curious to see what this would look like. My only experience with any kind of crackle paint was seeing my wife's crackle nail polish (similar to the crackle paint I think); and I can't see how that would make for convincing weathering.
  8. SaltyGoat

    SaltyGoat New Member

    I'll see if I have any photos. This was on a costume I made a couple of years ago that incorporated a small area that had a burned wood look. Unfortunately the costume is long gone as is my Acer computer (dead with a drive failure). The crackle made the surrounding paint look blistered from the heat. If I cannot find a photo, I'll dig up some scraps and see if I can duplicate it.
  9. Zaff


    A possible method would be to apply the preferred color of paint (black, brown, etc.), and then give a a quick wipe with a paper towel or scrap of cloth. Not a "cleaning" wipe so much as a "smearing" wipe. How much you apply (whether brushed on or sprayed on) depends on how "dirty" you want it to look. If you want it to look like a lot of mud, dirt, or grime is caked on there, it might be a good idea to consider applying a textured paint first to build up a bit more grit and volume. Still best to test on a scrap piece to get your technique down.

    Another method would be to use a brush (bristle is probably better than sponge), get a little paint on it, wipe it off as much as possible, then lightly brush it over the piece you're working on. This is best for if you just want it to look slightly dirty.

    If you're going for "mud splattered" like you were standing too close to a mongoose or warthog as it went through the mud, grab a bristle brush, get paint on it, and then "fling" the paint at the piece using a flicking motion in the wrist without actually touching the brush to the piece.

    Alternating with a few shades of brown and tan will give it a more natural look than just using one color, as dirt isn't usually uniform in color and consistency.
  10. Carpathia


    There's a part in the making of We Are ODST where the artist painting the ODST suit did just that. He had a paint brush with the armor mounted to a mannequin in front of him and swiped his hand across the ODST chest piece, flinging dark brown paint across the front. You can see it at 1:42 here...

    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 31, 2017
  11. Zaff


    The Brute Spiker Kit thread I saw recently used pretty much the same technique to add "blood splatter" to the blades. This is definitely a versatile technique to have in your repertoire, but it does take a bit of practice to learn how much paint to have on the brush and what motion to use to get the desired effect. As with many, many techniques out there, practice, practice, practice. Even just getting an old sheet of plywood or pick up a bunch of poster board at the dollar store, hang it up, and experiment to find what works best for what you want to do with it. Heck of a lot cheaper, and easier, than flinging paint at a finished piece and having to clean it all off again if it doesn't come out right.
  12. Fluffy Kittens

    Fluffy Kittens New Member

    Fling and smooth with a towel? Or just fling?

    I find it interesting that Bungie didn't use a more complex technique. It must be effective if they prefer it over other more complex methods.
  13. Zaff


    That one's for you to decide for yourself to determine which method gives you a result you're satisfied with.

    I know you do tend to prefer a cut and dry "do this, then this, and then this" step by step detailed instruction, but experimenting with new techniques and how they can yield different results is part of the "fun bit" just as much as the build itself, and because of the rather unpredictable nature of the process, short of someone breaking it down to "apply .482 fluid ounces of paint to the brush, hold your wrist at a 35 degree angle, sweep upwards at a precise 47.39 degree angle at exactly 72 mm per second with a 1/4 twist exactly 2/3 of the way through the motion...etc., etc., etc." each attempt is going to come out different and yield different results. It's something you kind of have to play with a bit to figure out which range of motions and wiping/smearing technique gives you something you can stand back and say "yep, that's it right there."

    But, to narrow it down a little, flinging will most likely give you streaks, small blobs, and random splatter, what you might expect from being behind a tire as it kicks up dirt and mud, or being too close when something hits the ground with a lot of impact and, well, flings crud everywhere.

    On the other hand, flinging and wiping (or brushing and wiping) will give more of the result you mentioned, looking like the piece was dragged through the mud, whether crawling or getting thrown to the ground. Also note that what you use to wipe/smear the paint will also affect how it looks. A cloth will take off more paint than a paper towel, which will take off more paint than, say, a piece of crumpled up paper. How hard you wipe and whether you wipe it off or just smear it will also dramatically change how it looks.

    In the end it does come back around to experimenting and finding what works best for you. It's not building a suit, but it's not staring at a screen, either. And a lot of these techniques aren't taught so much as discovered, as everyone's approach will be slightly different depending not only on available materials, but in a cast like this even the differing motions that come from different body types will factor in.
  14. Fluffy Kittens

    Fluffy Kittens New Member

    I'll do some experimenting, then.
    I should try a crud load of techniques. Maybe I can find a better method.

    EDIT: After some experimentation, I found out that acrylic paint doesn't fling. I then improvised and slathered my piece in brown paint and then wipe it off with a paper towel. It now looks like it has been used lightly and is dusty.

    I also found a pretty good technique for making battle damage dents look epic. You first fill in the dent with a sloppy coat of flat black latex paint, then, after the black paint drys, cover it in a heavy coat metallic silver acrylic paint and then try to wipe out all the paint with a paper towel. Repeat until it looks slightly metal-ish.
  15. HaloGoddess


    Acrylic paint DOES fling. Make sure your paint brush is wet, get a good amount of paint on it, but don't leave a big glob on it and wipe off some off the excess, dip it in some more water and fling away! lol That is how I did my Kat costume.:p
  16. Fluffy Kittens

    Fluffy Kittens New Member

    Yay! I can does the fling! :p
    I was thinking that water would wreck it. I guess not. Thanks for your help
  17. Zaff


    A little bit of paint thinner might help it fling as well, or use some of the reducer often used with a paint gun to make the paint easier to spray.
  18. Renton117

    Renton117 New Member

    Howdy guys, just a quick question I've heard about the salt method for battle chipping I was wondering if any one has used salt flakes, I ask because I plan on using them cause of their size and different shape, I hope they will give me a more chaotic look to the chipping.
  19. Carpathia


    I think the salt method, and correct me if I'm wrong here, is geared more toward scale models (tanks and the like). I'd be worried that the overall effect would seem out of scale on a suit of armor. Though, I would be interested in seeing an attempt.
  20. Renton117

    Renton117 New Member

    I dunno I seen it mentionend here before, I think it's to accompany larger dents and scratches to give the look like shrapnel damage from projectile weapons that shatter on the armour. I'm not sure, i have a botched knife at home ill give it a whirl on that.
  21. Monk358

    Monk358 New Member

    I need some Canadian help;
    I have looked everywhere for rustoleum satin oregano
    spray paint. Found it on amazon.ca ($67 a can).
    Home Depot, lowes, Rona, Sears, Canadian tire all no.
    Any help would be great.
  22. axmaxwell


    I've seen alot of really nicely done helmets with the UNSC logo on the side. How do you do that and make it look good? Sticker? Stencil?
  23. axmaxwell


    Military face paint Tutorial
    So I decided to do this for anyone who cosplays as a halo marine. I havent seen anything about face paints yet on the forum but if it adds some realism to your costume then ive done my job.
    Items Needed: Hunters Specialty or other hunting face paint. can usually be acquired for less than $20 at your local walmart, bass pro, cabelas, or other sporting goods store. Also you will probably want a paper plate to use as a palette and a rag lightly soaked in warm water.
    Technique: Squirt a small amount of each color onto a palette. I mean REALLY small drops, like half the size of a dime. this stuff goes a long way and you dont want to waste it. dab a tiny amount onto your index finger. AGAIN I stress tiny amount.

    Vietnam Era Tiger Stripe
    I always start with the black. Apply to the middle of your face, and spread outwards at an angle. remember you want the paint to be thinner at each end.
    Next apply brown, slightly overlapping the black so that no skin shows where the two colors meet.
    Finally apply the green.
  24. axmaxwell


    Military face paint technique #2
    I started out cosplaying as Tom Clany's Ghost Recon, from the original games where the guys painted their faces instead of wearing masks.
    This is my "Ghost" tutorial
    Items Needed: Hunters Specialty or other hunting face paint. can usually be acquired for less than $20 at your local walmart, bass pro, cabelas, or other sporting goods store. Also you will probably want a paper plate to use as a palette and a rag lightly soaked in warm water.
    Technique: Squirt a small amount of each color onto a palette. I mean REALLY small drops, like half the size of a dime. this stuff goes a long way and you dont want to waste it. dab a tiny amount onto your index finger. AGAIN I stress tiny amount.
    This is a bit more difficult. Close your eyes. rub the black over the eyelid and around the eye socket. This works best with the military grade paint ive pictured because when you sweat it doesnt run into your eyes. It doesn't show it in this picture but you will also want to do the underside of your nose in black as well. Dont worry if you get it smeared in the mustache area because you will overlap it with green later. As you can see I got a little more on one eye than the other. Use the warm rag to clean up the excess around the eye but make sure you dry the area before applying paint.
    This step is only for those that want to go crazy with it. Because I have actually done this stuff for work, I coat my entire neck and cheeks up to the cheekbone and the underside of my jaw in Brown.
    Now comes the green. Apply it to in a Misfits looking skull shape. I avoid the forehead because I know ill be wearing a helmet.
    This is a difficult step. Blend a small amount of green into the cheekbones to define them.
    Lastly use three fingers and apply the skull teeth.
  25. jasonzed36

    jasonzed36 New Member

    try to print out a desighn of the camo and then paint in layers so when you peal off your design it ends up like the digital camo you want it will take multiple designs if you want more than 2 colors so keep that in mind

Share This Page