"Help!" for: Papercraft or Pepakura

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I've seen small gaps between pieces in some cases, specially in those who are in very complicated angles.

If they are just a few and small (ie, 2 or 3 gaps of 1 mm) I don't think it could be a big problem, however, a lot of small gaps or a couple of big gaps can ruin the whole model sooner or later.

If by "gap" we mean edges that aren't lined up properly: That shouldn't happen at all. If you make the same mistake on both sides and/or are lucky, then maybe it doesn't matter. But usually this leads to some kind of warpage.

I tried a height of 11.5 inches, but that was far too small. I think it was roughly 16 pages. So today I bumped it up to 14 inches, but that ended up being 42 pages with over 1000 faces to it.

Does it have 42 pages before or after rearranging the pieces?
 
im going to try to make jun's armor can anybody help me with the pepakura i don't understand how to download it

You go to Tamasoft's web page and click "download". Pepakura Designer 3 is what you want. Don't forget to install it. Then you find yourself a model, either here on the forum or in the costuming wiki, download that as well and open it with the program.
 
Hello everyone, I am starting my first costume and my friend and I have made a suit and would like a unfolder to add me on msn at ULSSJ_Broly@hotmail.com, This unfolding business is kinda hectic. In return I can share what I have.

EDIT: OK, so I took a whack at it and this is what I came up with, is this adequate for unfolding?
 
ok, so me and my friends are looking to build multiple halo helmets and armor (we are making a video). Anyways on to my questions: What kind of glue should I use to put together the pepakura? And is there any way to make a "light" version of armor? We will be moving a lot in the video and I don't want a big bulk of armor.
 
ok, so me and my friends are looking to build multiple halo helmets and armor (we are making a video). Anyways on to my questions: What kind of glue should I use to put together the pepakura? And is there any way to make a "light" version of armor? We will be moving a lot in the video and I don't want a big bulk of armor.

Personally, I use hot glue. It's a little rough on the fingers to begin with, but you kill the nerves pretty quick. Super glue is another good way, although it's a little slower than hot glue. You have to wait longer for the glue to cure, and you can't fix your booboos with super glue. With hot glue, you can run the tip of the gun over the bad flap and redo the flap.

For "light" armor, I suggest using Smooth-Cast 320 for hardening the piece. It's a liquid plastic, and 5-6 layers of it makes your piece VERY strong. It's very watery, so you will have to make sure your piece has multiple layers of resin on it. The resin makes the cardstock strong enough to take a hardening material, plus is makes it waterproof.

You can get a gallon of Smooth Cast 320 for about $90 shipped (forgot where I saw that), and that will do about a suit and a half, maybe a little less.
 
ok, so me and my friends are looking to build multiple halo helmets and armor (we are making a video). Anyways on to my questions: What kind of glue should I use to put together the pepakura? And is there any way to make a "light" version of armor? We will be moving a lot in the video and I don't want a big bulk of armor.

Hot glue and super glue are the most popular, and both come with ad- and disadvantages. Use whichever you prefer. Do not use sticky tape, unless it's either solvent-resistant (try that first) or you don't plan to use resin with solvents.

Fibre-reinforced resin has a good strength-to-weight ratio, but it's a bit more labour intensive and still going to weigh something, especially if you want to make it extra strong for better endurance (don't know what exactly you're going to film). Rondo is rather heavy, so you may want to avoid that. If you want a compromise between the two, concerning both strength and ease of use, you can try using chopped fibres instead of cloth/mat.

Aside from that: Read a lot and welcome to the forums.

Edit: Let me just add this new part...

and how do you make a see through visor? and what kind of paper should i use?

For a Mark V/VI, you'd use a motorcycle visor, ODSTs can also be vacuformed (no experience with that, thus no detail, try searching the forums for more info).

Use heavy cardstock. 200 to 250 g/m² are good.
 
ok and how would one go about attaching this motorcycle visor and making it into the shape you want?
 
Hi and welcome to the 405th, T Cal! Instead of putting out questions at random, I'd suggest you:

Watch this orientation vido:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/15735-New-Recruit-Orientation-Video

Read this complete Noob list:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/14613-Complete-Noob-List

Read this on how to use Pepakura to create the paper models:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/1034-Tutorial-How-to-use-Pepakura-to-make-your-Mjolnir-Armor

Read this on how to "scale" your paper creation to fit you:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/25588-How-to-Scale-Your-Armour-Tutorial-V.2

Read this on some of the forum's best practices:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/27746-ATTENTION-NEW-(and-existing)-MEMBERS!-READ-THIS-NOW-PLEASE!

That's a start only. There is lots more reading required! Have fun learning!
 
Personally i use Elmers wood glue and a toothpick, the glue sets in about 10 secs and no real big mess. It's all a matter of preferance. Try as many ways as poss and figure out whats best for you. Its all a learning process and you have to start somewhere. There are plenty of ppl here to help. There is a really good tute in the sticky tabs for the MK6 double visor. lots of differant ways to "shape" it. You will have to do some cutting with a dremel tho .As far as fixing it to the helmet, i have seen ppl hot glue them in place and others that use velcro to place them. Experiment and have fun. Welcome to the Forums
 
I seem to have a scaling issue with the body of the MarkVI body. I've done multiple measurements using several pictures, scaling them to my body, and I always get the height between 399-402 cm. Which gives me around 400 cm height, 373 cm width, and 382 cm depth. As correct as this seems, when I printed it out, and began making the part where your head should fit through, it's as small as a child's head!

If I make the scale as big as it seems it should be from this then I have over 70 pages with things running off of the pages everywhere. What could I be doing wrong?
 
I seem to have a scaling issue with the body of the MarkVI body. I've done multiple measurements using several pictures, scaling them to my body, and I always get the height between 399-402 cm. Which gives me around 400 cm height, 373 cm width, and 382 cm depth. As correct as this seems, when I printed it out, and began making the part where your head should fit through, it's as small as a child's head!

If I make the scale as big as it seems it should be from this then I have over 70 pages with things running off of the pages everywhere. What could I be doing wrong?

You're not supposed to be able to fit your head through the opening. Only your neck. Once you have the piece built and hardened, you cut it apart at the shoulders and at the "sidebars".

The red lines are where you are supposed to cut.
gallery_3005_17_36776.jpg


Cut ONLY once you have the piece hardened. Otherwise, the piece will warp and the ends will not meet.
 
Hey I'm a noob(hate tht) and when I tried to scale the Mark VI helmet to my size, i changed one number then they all changed. And after the scaling is done the picture in on the lines, is tht ok? to happen
 
srry for double post my pc is being stupid as usual, anyway,I off topic again, ok so wht does it mean by deepth and when i scall the helmet to my(big) head do i use the height of my head
 
srry for double post my pc is being stupid as usual, anyway,I off topic again, ok so wht does it mean by deepth and when i scall the helmet to my(big) head do i use the height of my head
Height is from the measurement of the model from it's top to it's bottom in the Designer.
Depth is what I like to think of the length - the distance from the front to the back of the model.
Width is exactly that - the measurement from one side of the model to the other.

What you are saying about the scaling is a bit redundant really. The world 'scaling' implies resizing, not distorting a single dimension. That said, changing one of the dimensions (height, depth or width) will change the other two dimensions compparatively the same.
i.e. if height = 1, depth = 2, width = 3, if you double the height, the dimensions will change accordingly (to height = 2, depth = 4, width = 6).
If you want to simply edit one dimension you have to purchase the full version of the designer, which isn't really necessary unless you REALLY need the editing.

If the pieces are on the lines then they will print outside of the page, which is kind of bad, as you will lose important pieces of the piece. You can fix this by either rotating the pieces or editing the flaps to make smaller pieces.

This site has good video tutorials that got me started, and might be simpler to follow then my overly long instuctions <_<

Hope this helped :D
 
Ok, I tried Printing out the blueprints I have, but it didn't print any of the lines, only very tiny numbers. How do I get the lines to print off too?
 
Hi soldiers ! Got a little question about making a rifle with Pepakura . I've download the pepakura file for rifle ( the one with a short barrel , no scope and ammo counter ) but I i don't see how i can put fiberglass inside after making it . Maybe I'm stupid but I'm new ( ok ok not an excuse LOL ) and would like to make the energy Hammer but don't see how too . After gluing the Whois parts can't put Fiberglass . Also , I got Hayabusa shoulder protectors but the same problem . If someone can help me please :)

Versinke .
 
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