"Help!" for: Papercraft or Pepakura

Hey, guys. I'm having quite a hard time trying to get the scaling thing right. Do any of you have any tips on how to get the scaling just right? I have tried on three separate occasions, all ending up either way too small or way too big.
Also, does it matter that when I go to print, Pepakura says it can't find the right size of paper, and asks if I want to resize it? (Come to think of it, this seems the most likely to me, as I have been opting for this. If that's the case, how would I best avoid this without harming the actual print out?)
Any help would be greatly appreciated, as this is getting pretty frustrating.
 

Katsu

Well-Known Member
I see there are some lazy unfolds out there, if you get that error message asking to resize, just say no. So long as you say no, it should be what the scaling says it should be.

As for scaling, it's not much of a good exact science, and depends on the piece. Some easier pieces like the shins can be figured out by measuring the diameter length and width-wise for your shins and comparing that to the pep scale.

Other pieces, like the helmet, usually require you to leave out most of the underside lip, because the games are designed with the people not really taking their helmets off. I recently put together the MkV and it would need to be about as wide as my shoulders to fit it over my head if I left the lip on:
 

Katsu

Well-Known Member
Is there a usage license for the pep files? I've had to make some modifications to some files out there, and am tempted to share the fixes with the rest of the community.

I am curious about what rights the original creator, and the consumers have for distributing, modifying, redistributing, molding and casting, and other such things!

I'm not necessarily going to do all of these things, but would like to know what they are in case in comes up.
 

SeniorRawr

Jr Member
Is there a usage license for the pep files? I've had to make some modifications to some files out there, and am tempted to share the fixes with the rest of the community.

I am curious about what rights the original creator, and the consumers have for distributing, modifying, redistributing, molding and casting, and other such things!

I'm not necessarily going to do all of these things, but would like to know what they are in case in comes up.

that's something I've been curious about as well, it would be good to know, also, what the heck does it keep asking me for a password when i want to save changes to something?
 

Katsu

Well-Known Member
You have to pay 40$ for the ability to save. The very talented developers way of earning a bit of money for his work.
 

Andersson

New Member
Hey there!
Almost done with my first ever pep, of a Mark VI helmet.
There's just one thing: I plan to have LED-lights. Is it then really necessary to glue paper over the holes when making the pep? Similarly; should I glue the paper visor on? I sense it would be annoying to remove it after resining it and all that :/
 

Chiefy117

Jr Member
I think you remove it after resining because if you resin it without the visor it could kinda disorientate the piece or morph it and ruin it. thats just what iev heard. besides you can just cut it out with the rotary tool i would imagine? Hope this helps :) (dont take my word for it straight away i may be mistaken :p)
 

Katsu

Well-Known Member
Chiefy is right, the point of leaving the visor and led holes papered over is to maintain the stability of the structure, though it is also helpful if you want to form your own visors you have a premade, prefitted one to go off of.

HOWEVER, if you really want to leave them out, you... can. There are even pep files out there that are designed without the visor, but you risk the helmet collapsing from the weight of the resin, it's paranoid, but I prefer to be safe than sorry.

It is not hard to cut out even when it's fiberglassed, as you SHOULD have a rotary tool if you intend to do any detailing or grinding or small sanding on the helmet. Hope this helps.
 

Shanjoo

New Member
I need some help with pepakura, I'm trying to input the Ht, Wdth, And Dpth into the scaling of my helmet, but each time i enter one of the three number, the other two change. how can i make the other two number stay while I change the other? I have a rather large head.
 

the100champ

New Member
Hi everyone,
Long time reader, first time poster. I wouldn't say I'm a noob as I've done a few ODST helmets/suits, worked with molding/casting and made the Halo 4 MC helmet. However, I'm still pretty new and stuck on this:

I'm trying to make the Halo 4 MC torso created by KingRahl file here: http://www.4shared.com/file/XGfdKByO/H4_Torso.html

I'm making it for someone 6'5" with a in-shape build and am not sure the size I need to scale it. All the tutorials I've read on scaling are vague once you reach this height.
Can someone help? Thanks in advance!
 

Katsu

Well-Known Member
The general consensus is to use the dimensions of the piece itself and then some guess and check. Measure the diameter of their torso length and width wise, and then make the length and width of the piece be that number plus extra room, since the number is based on the furthest out points of the 3d file, which aren't necessarily the parts near your chest. You also want extra room for padding/electronics. There's no exact science for any height, you gotta guess it as best you can based on measurements, and then either go all out, or do a test run with paper and only doing important parts.
 

SeniorRawr

Jr Member
I need some help with pepakura, I'm trying to input the Ht, Wdth, And Dpth into the scaling of my helmet, but each time i enter one of the three number, the other two change. how can i make the other two number stay while I change the other? I have a rather large head.

there should be a check box, un check it, but be careful not to makke it too size perfect to your head, helmets can come out weird, also you want at least 2 inches all around your head for padding and electrical, trust me, fans are a must.
 

Toymakerkarl

New Member
I am trying to print the Pepakura file for the M6C SOCOM. The Halo Wiki lists the weapon as being 22.86 cm long for the standard size, which is 228.6 mm long. The origional dimensions for the file are H-162, W-30, D-267. If I want to make a M6C in proper length, do I change the H measurement to 228.6 mm ? I guess I am asking is the Height substituted for Length when you are printing a file of a weapon ? I am building another Spartan Mk. VI, in Red this time, and Sarge just might need his shotgun, so that would be another build I would need to print. Thanks for anyone's help on this.
 

Chiefy117

Jr Member
im sure ive already read this on here somewhere but ive forgotten it and cant find it, what do i do with the supports that are printed with the model, I am doing the Mk VI shoulder piece and there are about 5 pieces which need cutting out if i glue them in, any help would be greatly appreciated
thanks
-Liam
 

Katsu

Well-Known Member
I am trying to print the Pepakura file for the M6C SOCOM. The Halo Wiki lists the weapon as being 22.86 cm long for the standard size, which is 228.6 mm long. The origional dimensions for the file are H-162, W-30, D-267. If I want to make a M6C in proper length, do I change the H measurement to 228.6 mm ? I guess I am asking is the Height substituted for Length when you are printing a file of a weapon ? I am building another Spartan Mk. VI, in Red this time, and Sarge just might need his shotgun, so that would be another build I would need to print. Thanks for anyone's help on this.

This is an easy to answer one because I've been doing a lot of research on the M6's, and I'm sorry I didn't see it sooner.

From the halo wiki:
"Some variants of the M6 series have been 'up-sized' to be used by SPARTAN-IIs. The 'up-sizing' factor is 117%, a reference to John-117. "

267 is 117% of 228. If you want it spartan sized, keep it 267, if you want it marine sized drop it down to 228.



im sure ive already read this on here somewhere but ive forgotten it and cant find it, what do i do with the supports that are printed with the model, I am doing the Mk VI shoulder piece and there are about 5 pieces which need cutting out if i glue them in, any help would be greatly appreciated
thanks
-Liam

If you are using the one I have, they get glued in to keep it from collapsing. You cut them off after the piece is rondo'd. I assume that's what you mean by "cutting out" and not any major cutting of existing pieces.
 
I'm having a little trouble with the high def Mark VI found on the Halo pepakura wiki site

6869665680_9bdb1e108a.jpg
photo by LoneHowler, on Flickr

I can't figure out if the stomach plate is supposed to be a seperate piece, or is it supposed to attach somewhere?
 
Top