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C 4468 said:
hey is it ok if theres small holes in my helmet like this? Cause I REALLY dont want to redo it

[attachment=1188:IMG_2875.JPG]

Yes it's okay to have those holes.

darthturkey said:
Ok im having trouble here determining where i should put fiberglass. becuase in the FAq it says to never ever do this. Put in a Fiberglassing tutorial that is pinned it says and shows putting fiberglass on the outside. What do i do?

I can see why you're confused. It's not a life threatening problem, people just have a difference in opinion. A lot of people SERIOUSLY suggest not putting it on the outside. You don't need that many layers, about 1-2 will do just fine . So to save yourself a lot of sanding people only put it on the inside. Plus, if you put it on the outside it will give you a really odd texture.
 
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What types of glue and tape will resin eat through? I use rubber cement to assemble my helm along with white glue and masking tape in some places. The tape is not important but the rubber cement and white glue is... so am I safe?
 
People keep posting links with places like rapid share or something in them, and I really don't understond how to get the pep files from that link, so I'm like reely lost.


EDIT: never mind, me and my friend figured it out srry lol
 
P32 said:
FS' helm has an assembled height of 27cm, according to the scaling thread that is slightly larger than I need at a height of 5'8. But with the padding I figured that in the end it would not be that much larger than I need in the end. Once I got around to assembling it and comparing what I have to my scout trooper helm (Don Post Helm) I notice that 27cm is a good size after all. So in summation do as the sticky says and add a bit to your height, maybe even a little more than the sticky says.
Thanks! Do i just use the same formula and change thw number of what it was originally? The original scale in the formula is something like 30.342, do i replace that with 27? Thanks.
-The J-Man
 
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tonsofhoopla said:
Thanks! Do i just use the same formula and change thw number of what it was originally? The original scale in the formula is something like 30.342, do i replace that with 27? Thanks.
-The J-Man

You are best off using the original scaling thread to find what size helm you need then plugging that number in when scaling FS' helm.
 
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How are people storing their suits after they're all done? Right now, I've just got cardstock pieces assembled and lying in a pile on my closet floor (I'm a bad Spartan- mishandling UNSC equipment :whistle:). Do people prop it up on something? I'd likely only use it a few times a year after it's done so I'd hate for it to lose shape just because I stored it inappropriately.
 
SH_Jack said:
How are people storing their suits after they're all done? Right now, I've just got cardstock pieces assembled and lying in a pile on my closet floor (I'm a bad Spartan- mishandling UNSC equipment :whistle:). Do people prop it up on something? I'd likely only use it a few times a year after it's done so I'd hate for it to lose shape just because I stored it inappropriately.
I have mine stacked up and in a basket... But you could probably put it on a heavy duty hanger and use some kind of little like... String or something to keep it together to keep it up with other pieces... :\
 
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SH_Jack said:
How are people storing their suits after they're all done? Right now, I've just got cardstock pieces assembled and lying in a pile on my closet floor (I'm a bad Spartan- mishandling UNSC equipment :whistle:). Do people prop it up on something? I'd likely only use it a few times a year after it's done so I'd hate for it to lose shape just because I stored it inappropriately.

Depends on the condition of your closet. If it's really damp, then you're going to want to make sure the armour doesn't get soggy and warp. Try to prevent pieces, such as the helmet, from lying on their sides to prevent them from shifting to one side. I'd store it like any other piece of equipment. (i.e. hockey gear, baseball gear, etc.)

As for P32's question, don't worry about using white glue. I'm not sure what it will do to the rubber cement though. If you're really worried then take a couple pices of scrap cardstock and glue it together with different types of glue, wait for it to set and apply some resin to each piece and see which one gets murdered.
 
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s-meister said:
As for P32's question, don't worry about using white glue. I'm not sure what it will do to the rubber cement though. If you're really worried then take a couple pices of scrap cardstock and glue it together with different types of glue, wait for it to set and apply some resin to each piece and see which one gets murdered.

Well I don't think that the resin will eat through the rubber cement or anything (I was concerned about it doing so to the white glue)... quite the opposite I am wondering if the latex will, in any way, inhibit the resin from bonding with the paper. I can't find anything from googling so I thought I'd ask here.
 
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I have a question,
Is it possible to convert .pdo files using pepakura (or anything else), back into some type of more useful standard like .obj? I have the pdo files I want, but they are needlessly complex, Id like to try to optimise the meshes properly, and add details that are only on the original game files displacement map (ie not represented by actual geometry) before using pepakura to unfold them. Sorry if thats a really noobish question, but Ive been hunting everywhere and I cant seem to find a method of converting pdo's o_O
 
NZ-TK said:
I have a question,
Is it possible to convert .pdo files using pepakura (or anything else), back into some type of more useful standard like .obj? I have the pdo files I want, but they are needlessly complex, Id like to try to optimise the meshes properly, and add details that are only on the original game files displacement map (ie not represented by actual geometry) before using pepakura to unfold them. Sorry if thats a really noobish question, but Ive been hunting everywhere and I cant seem to find a method of converting pdo's o_O

I don't know of any way that you could do that. It is possible to change the model in pep though, but you would need the full version of pep to do that. I'll post a key gen for you. And when all that's done:

1. Open up the piece
2. Click on the "Unfold Undo" button
3. Click the "3DModelWindow" tab, and go to "Edit Mode" then "Edit Model"

And from there you can change it to some extent. Beware that it's extremely hard to do, and I'm in no way responsible for the angry things you might do to your computer (i.e. smash screen with bat).

Key Gen: http://www.megaupload.com/?d=3CI3HL20
 
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I've been lurking for a while contemplating starting a project like this. I'm familiar with Pepakura and a fast study on resin and fiberglassing.

Has anyone any experience with using the fiberglass casting material used in making a cast for someone who has a broken bone for the fiberglass portion of this? I'm in the medical field and can get this stuff. It comes in rolls of various colors typically 2 or 3 inches wide. It is activated by water and hardens within minutes. Only need to wear gloves. No respirator needed.

Thanks
 
from there you can change it to some extent.
Hey thanks for getting back to me. I was hoping that was not the case, I have a legal version of pep designer 2, I just cant stand its clunky old interface, so I was hoping there was a way get the files into a "proper" 3D app to do some work on them. seeing that Slyfo dosnt want to share the beta models, Ill just have to either model them myself or work out how to extract the meshes.... off to a halo modding community I go :)
 
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ive checked everything and double checked everything according to this and the cut outs def. come out too small oO and how should the numbers match when putting together?
 
Bentobochs said:
I've been lurking for a while contemplating starting a project like this. I'm familiar with Pepakura and a fast study on resin and fiberglassing.

Has anyone any experience with using the fiberglass casting material used in making a cast for someone who has a broken bone for the fiberglass portion of this? I'm in the medical field and can get this stuff. It comes in rolls of various colors typically 2 or 3 inches wide. It is activated by water and hardens within minutes. Only need to wear gloves. No respirator needed.

Thanks

That stuff can be used, as long as you know how to use it then it'll be okay. And it'll take quite a beating too, it's a 2 thumbs-up material.

As for redragon74's question, it's confusing me. Could you say it a bit clearer?
 
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Thanks for the reply. I've put on a couple of casts in my day. But working for the inside out rather than wrapping it around something would be the hardest part. And it is a bit more expensive than the cloth and resin technique.
 
like all the numbers that come out for when your putting the Pepakura together u know how it comes out in sections and theres numbers on every one of them? how do you know what number matches to each number? and for some reason like i printed out the ODST helmet and u can def. tell its small like the size of the spec. ed halo helmet from h3 same with the one from the main page as the walk through guide.
 
I think your questions about the size would be better answered in the scaling thread, look back a page or two for dwoo's tables if the one in the first post of that thread doesn't work out for you.

About the tab numbers, they match up with the exact same numbers. It can be a fudgesicle to find the matching ones but they're there.
 
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