Revolutionary New Way To Finish Pep Pieces

Status
Not open for further replies.
Apoca1yp5e said:
Last I checked, I wasnt bashing people for posting tutorials, only noobs bashing others for no reason. Your the only one causing problems cause you just couldnt stop complaining about someone who posted a tutorial, with a video. He took time to even show himself doing what he posted, so to see people like you call him a noob, and bash him is pathetic. Sorry people like you ruin the forum, people like you who believe they are the almighty and the holy. Come off your high cloud, no one cares. They just want help, they want to have fun, and want to be part of the community. But asses like you who feel that because they have been here so long, and believe everyone should look up and bow down to them, grow up kid. Take your bashing elsewhere, and let the rest of us learn, and have fun :)



I never called him a noob. Also, have you seen what the OP has done!? He is one of the most disrespected members here. Look at the Banned Members List thread. His name, along with multiple of his other user names are in there. As far as I know, he doesn't deserve to be forgiven only for posting a tutorial.



Research before you post. I never called him a noob. I simply said I have known about it for a while. You then came in here and bashed me, along with others about it.



Also, calling everybody here a nood isn;t that smart. You have been here since June! As far as I am conserned, your contributions have only been three mean posts. You are the noob, a person who has to clean up their act and contribute to the community!



So do yourself a favour, piss off, and know what you are talking about before you piss on other peoples parade!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Its ok ill be the bigger man







So with rondo, I dont quite understand the hardener. I understand you just use one, but how come? why isnt the bondo hardener used as well. And he just squirts a lot in, is there an actual ratio, cause im kind of OCD with measurments and such I hate not being exact.
 
Apoca1yp5e said:
Its ok ill be the bigger man







So with rondo, I dont quite understand the hardener. I understand you just use one, but how come? why isnt the bondo hardener used as well. And he just squirts a lot in, is there an actual ratio, cause im kind of OCD with measurments and such I hate not being exact.

I love how the edit button can make you look like the bigger man.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
In the interest of production...



Apoca-numbers, Bondo is pretty much a fiberglass resin with fillers mixed in. The hardeners are very similar, if not the same. Thus, you use twice the normal amount of hardener, since it will react with both. If you run out of Resin Hardener, make your next batch with Bondo Hardener, and you should get the same effect.



On the note of weapon props, I remember watching a member's video on Smoothcasting, and he had sealed the bottom of his helmet, leaving a small pour hole in the seal. I think you could just as easily make a hole in the pepped version of the weapon, pour in some rondo, and slushcast your way to victory. Probably no mudglassing, unless you're working with a Splaser, in which case, I'd probably have the weapon in 2 symmetrical halves and I'd bond them with fiberglass tape when they're complete.
 
Edit: doh! SchizophrenicMC beat me to the explanation. The reason the hardeners are different is because it's easier to mix them with their counterpart materials. resin gets a more watery hardener, Bondo gets a thicker hardener. (That, and their chemical compositions are SLIGHTLY different, but they have the same effect)



Let's get this thread back on TRAAAACK! As has been said before, no matter who made the video, this is a valid method, and questions about it should be answered.



Why does it work? Well, the simple answer is that Bondo body filler is actually made of (in basic terms, I do believe the actual full composition is a trade secret) resin and talc. So the resin hardener will have the same effect on the bondo. (That's why you use twice as much, the correct amount for the resin, then more to cure the bondo).



As for actual ratios, your resin container will specify how much to use per volume of resin. And then put in twice as much.
 
Seeing as normal fibreglassing and mudglassing both use resin, fibreclass cloth and bondo, shouldn't they both weigh and cost about the same? I've heard that mudglassing is heavier and more expensive, and I can't see why.
 
@Shadow of Intent

Before you reply, make sure that you check the date of the last post. This thread has been dead for almost two years and necro-posting is against the forum rules.

And yes, mudglass is heavier and more expensive.
 
I'm sure that this has been done to death, and I am aware of the 'muddy secrets' tutorial by Sigma_LS, but I have been painting Rondo over the outside of bondo / pep files for some time now. The reason is simple, it fills all those little 'voids' that always appear in the Bondo, it self levels and gives a smooth finish, and it's a damn sight easier to sand to a proper smooth finish. You don't get sanding edges like you do with just filler.

It reduced the sanding time from weeks to days.
 
Alright. One question, Is the fiberglass REALLY necassary? Can you use something else for the extra reinforcment/hardener, like an extra layer of Rondo? Cause I think that would work just as nicely. So, Please let me know wat ya think. BTW, This method seems ever so easier than the other method and as a result, this the First Thread I have ever subscribed to. I look forward to using this method or a variation of this method(such as the one I just described) in my future project(Custom Halo Reach Armor).
 
I tried something similar to this about a week ago that worked
very well. I might have misread your first post but what I did
was I put 2 layers of resin inside and out than fiberglasses the inside
and than put another layer of rondo glass. its as hard as petrified wood
and can be detailed without using any bondo. but like i said that might
of been what you did.
 
I'm not sure if this counts as 'reviving a dead thread', but if so, my bad, please ignore, and carry on. Just thinking, though:

Would it be cool to do this without fibreglass (yeah, I know you guys have said 'It's find to do it in small areas') in a helmet? I'm currently doing a Space Marine suit from Warhammer 40K, and fibreglassing the inside of the battle-helm, with mudglass or otherwise, would be annoying as hell. Just thinking if it'd be enough to, say, do a double-think coating of mudglass (well, I suppose it'd be just rondo without the glass), and that would stop it dying everywhere.

If I did the regular rondo-no-fibreglass inside the helmet, would I still need to bondo the entire outside of the helm?
 
If I did the regular rondo-no-fibreglass inside the helmet, would I still need to bondo the entire outside of the helm?

Using rondo only on the interior of a helmet (or other model) is a valid alternative to other hardening techniques. You will want to apply resin to the helmet's exterior first to stiffen the paper and avoid warping (I've started applying resin to the interior also but this is optional). If you find the helmet flexes somewhat after you've applied rondo to the interior you may want to add a second rondo layer. Once the helmet is hard you may proceed with applying/sanding/shaping bondo to the exterior as you deem necessary.

With the rondo-only hardening method you can achieve the same hardness as with using fiberglass (usually quicker and easier than with using fiberglass) but the helmet will be more brittle since the material won't contain fibers to add strength. If you're careful and don't drop the helmet onto hard surfaces you won't have an issue, but it is something to consider. As an alternative to bondo some have used a product called bondo-glass (which is bondo containing fibers) in their mix with resin.

In order to avoid reviving dead threads and asking questions that have already been answered please try to delve into as many build/help/tutorial threads as you can find. There are numerous ways of doing things and each one has it benefits and drawbacks. One way to learn these is to do a bunch of research (and these forums are a great resource) and another way is to get your hands dirty and experiment (remember, sharing your results can benefit others as they perform their own research). Good luck with your project.
 
could you use this method to strengthen pep weapons inisde? just made a covy carbine (way to big T_T) and waiting to put a second coat of resin
 
Nice, as a memeber for a year now i only got to this thread a few days ago and decided to try this method on my long-time-build of carter so i made biceps part and made a mistake i put small amount of hardener so i have to wait for it to harden. So far this method looks realy great, saving me time which i dont have (work, work, baby on the way etc.). If everything is ok for my next part i will go with shin piece and hopefuly upload a video with beter resolution than one on first page and with amounts of resin/bondo/hardener (in metric as im in europe). Thanks to Tandhem for this great idea!
 
ive been here for a year and a half, i havent even started my ODST build (school, rifle team, no job) but i know for a fact that i will use this method once i can get my build off the ground, especially for those HD peps
 
This is kind of a stupid question but I was curious, will you get the same effect if you use fiberglass cloth instead of mat?
 
could you use this method to strengthen pep weapons inisde? just made a covy carbine (way to big T_T) and waiting to put a second coat of resin

Yes, rondo can be used in weapons.


This is kind of a stupid question but I was curious, will you get the same effect if you use fiberglass cloth instead of mat?

In the OP, the author IS using fiberglass cloth, rather than mat. However, the effect would be pretty much the same. Cloth just has the added benefit of fitting into tighter corners than mat.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top