Bruh! I just got given the entire set of FMA by my friends, the collection is whack now. The house is filled with weeb stuff, mostly props and posters.I can't tell what's more exciting - your three printers or your anime collection
(I spy an FMA art book!)
I've never seen such detail in a magnum, I'll have to use it a well! And I'm digging the toe box a lotView attachment 306755
Magnum printer. Will probably finish sanding today or tomorrow and follow with paint sat. It's huggeeeeee!!
Printer is running into mintemp error, probably a screw loose. Nonetheless it is hampering my progress. Got more boot bits done though.View attachment 306756View attachment 306757
Not sure if the toes might be a bit too big. I can't decide. Printing the other side while a decision is made.
It's a fantastic model I'm thoroughly pleased! Afterall, what's the point of printing if you're not doing it in high fidelity.I've never seen such detail in a magnum, I'll have to use it a well! And I'm digging the toe box a lot
If it's your first printer ever going with the ender-3 v2 is a very good, affordable option. I've survived on that build size for 6 years and am just now going to upgrade to a CR-10 Smart in the future. That being said if you want to print huge objects from the get go, the CR-10 smart is where I'd go if you have space. They have the same reliability, they make the same amount of noise. They have the same learning curve and cost is quite low for the quality you get. It's all up to personal preference, as the only difference is the year they came out, and the build size. The only thing to note with the new cr-10 smart is it's brand new, they're working out the bugs in the firmware, and you can't manually level the bed. Leveling is done electronically.Hey OP, your builds look awesome!
I was hoping you could give me a Printer suggestion, since you seem familiar with them, and I absolutely am not.
I don't mind jumping in the deep end and facing a sharp learning curve.
The two go-to's seem to be either an Ender or CR-10 base, and I would personally want the largest possible without sacrificing quality/reliability, the size just in case I see a need for something big in the future.
Since you've used both, what would you suggest? And why would you suggest that one over the other?
Maaaan I'm feeling conflicted!If it's your first printer ever going with the ender-3 v2 is a very good, affordable option. I've survived on that build size for 6 years and am just now going to upgrade to a CR-10 Smart in the future. That being said if you want to print huge objects from the get go, the CR-10 smart is where I'd go if you have space. They have the same reliability, they make the same amount of noise. They have the same learning curve and cost is quite low for the quality you get. It's all up to personal preference, as the only difference is the year they came out, and the build size. The only thing to note with the new cr-10 smart is it's brand new, they're working out the bugs in the firmware, and you can't manually level the bed. Leveling is done electronically.
Definitely do not touch the max, it's an eh printer. If you're wanting a huge printer have you considered the ender 5 plus? I know it's throwing another item into the mix, but it's quite stable. The reason I recommend the CR-10 smart over the V3 is because it's a brand new printer, it is so similar to prusa it's kinda sad. It's big enough to get you started on massive prints, and user friendly. There's is currently only one problem with the firmware, and it should be updated by monday. That's literally the only downside. In terms of direct feed vs non direct feed, it's simply user preferences. With direct feed keep in mind you are adding extra weight to the x axis. For print accuracy, you will find similar results in all printers. It's all in the specific printers gcode. We could have the same printer and one could print godly, the other like utter trash. (This actually happened to me, my prusa prints crazy well when it does, but my friends 6 prusa all print kinda eh.) The difference in terms of a properly methodically tuned gcode makes is astronomical.Maaaan I'm feeling conflicted!
Haha I came onto the 405th hoping to find some extra suggestions and right now it's an even split between the Ender 3 MAX and the CR-10 V3 E.
Are you saying that the CR models are newer and arguably better for that reason?
I've got loads and loads of space, so that's no problem. I'm converting a commercial chocolate making lab into a lab to make specialised kitchen/chocolate tools.
But I'm an uber-geek (why else would I be here? ) so a large, good and accurate model is on my mind for making cool props and cosplay in the future.
I expect just about anything I look at to turn out good. But I want to skip straight to something more long term rather than start on a smaller easier to grasp item that'll need more upgrading as I grow into it.
I've read that direct feed nozzles are better, thus the CR-10 V3 E recommendation, I think... But you reckon the Smart model is better?
Good lady, I do believe you've just given me the most helpful simply broken down explanation yet. Looks like I'll be getting the CR-10S to start with!Definitely do not touch the max, it's an eh printer. If you're wanting a huge printer have you considered the ender 5 plus? I know it's throwing another item into the mix, but it's quite stable. The reason I recommend the CR-10 smart over the V3 is because it's a brand new printer, it is so similar to prusa it's kinda sad. It's big enough to get you started on massive prints, and user friendly. There's is currently only one problem with the firmware, and it should be updated by monday. That's literally the only downside. In terms of direct feed vs non direct feed, it's simply user preferences. With direct feed keep in mind you are adding extra weight to the x axis. For print accuracy, you will find similar results in all printers. It's all in the specific printers gcode. We could have the same printer and one could print godly, the other like utter trash. (This actually happened to me, my prusa prints crazy well when it does, but my friends 6 prusa all print kinda eh.) The difference in terms of a properly methodically tuned gcode makes is astronomical.
If you want a quality comparison, my pilot helmet was printed on the cr10smart, the EOD helmet on a prusa mk2.5s, and the attachments for the pilot helm on the ender 3 v2.
Another thing I just thought of to mention, keep in mind the larger a print volume is , the more z wobble you will get. So a 4 axis printer would be excellent for very tall prints, but maybe not so intricate armor. (Older models print layer is 0.2mm and new are typically 0.1mm)
I have the Anycubic chiron and it has a big build space of 400mm by 400mm by 450mm. I was able to print my whole helmet on it in one print! My friend has the cr10S and he printed something for me and I was thoroughly impressed with the print quality. Definitely a great printer! And good luck!Good lady, I do believe you've just given me the most helpful simply broken down explanation yet. Looks like I'll be getting the CR-10S to start with!
And I'll be lurking on your thread here to learn and be suitably impressed
In case there's any confusion, since I was at first, the CR-10 S is not the same as the CR-10 Smart. Thanks Creality for the naming conventions hahahhaGood lady, I do believe you've just given me the most helpful simply broken down explanation yet. Looks like I'll be getting the CR-10S to start with!
And I'll be lurking on your thread here to learn and be suitably impressed
There was most definitely confusion! Haha luckily I saw the Smart before the S and clicked on that one.In case there's any confusion, since I was at first, the CR-10 S is not the same as the CR-10 Smart. Thanks Creality for the naming conventions hahahha
That's one heck of a heater upgrade!Wow, how lucky am I? My Capricorn tubing jammed halfway in on the new printer. Also picked up a ton of supplies to remake the vacuum former again, and a heater arrived today. Last week's platen for size.
All the stuff!
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