Awesome idea, I wasn't sure how much vacuum force is applied to the heated petg but I can't image it's much... hmm mm I'm might have to give this a whirl for fun!
The force is as strong as your vacuum can pull. I'm using an el cheapo shop vac so it doesn't have too much power. Some people use compressors to pull on larger surfaces so don't take my word as gospel.

My clay buck was awful. I do not recommend that ExCeLLuR8 unless you are familiar with using clays. I tried Air Dry clay and it just crumbled apart on me during the form and it was very hard to get a smooth enough surface to look through. Maybe an oven bake clay would have worked better.

My first attempt was much better. I used the pepakura cut out from pepping my helmet and used bondo to smooth it like normal. I did use Air Dry clay to provide the support underneath that during forming. That's probably what Turbo was thinking of.
I thought that you made a clay shape for the Young Jorge suit. Apologies, I must have been mistaken.

For the undersuit pattern I again went the route of becoming a duct tape mummy and to get the closest possible fit I went with as few clothes as possible (because I know Dirtdives is following this thread). Dance belt and cling wrap is definitely a look for a Monday night. I'm not sure what the forum rules are on partial male nudity so I'm only uploading this censored photo that covers my nipple effectively.
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I've split the foam half into flat panels and cleaned up the lines for easy sewing. Some of you eagle eyed viewers may notice that the shapes here are for the Halo Legends variant of the undersuit.
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Yes, I will be doing a Halo 3 Multiplayer variant as well at a later point, I just need to save up for the materials to cast the proper panels and gaskets. Yes, this means I will be making two Daisys. I want to make an anime screen accurate version out of foam to go along with my 3D printed version that I'm finishing up now. Sure you can call me a madlad for planning another SPARTAN, another red CQB one at that, but I'm just a sucker for this aesthetic.
 
I'm going to wash out my eyes w/ bleach now........then you don't have to worry about me watching this train wreck....I mean thread. At first I thought I was on the wrong website.....a new technique for a full body waxing gone horribly wrong. Then realized that it was much worse that that......and what's with the hand signal from the Cpl? The upside down "OK" hand signal? Is that like putting a flag upside down? An international signal for "HELP"? Don't blame her........if the front is exposed.....so is the back.......
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I'm going to wash out my eyes w/ bleach now........then you don't have to worry about me watching this train wreck....I mean thread. At first I thought I was on the wrong website.....a new technique for a full body waxing gone horribly wrong. Then realized that it was much worse that that......and what's with the hand signal from the Cpl? The upside down "OK" hand signal? Is that like putting a flag upside down? An international signal for "HELP"? Don't blame her........if the front is exposed.....so is the back.......
View attachment 268573
The bad thing is you can see the back.... look to the right of the photo... there is a mirror... Dirtdives pass me the bleach when you are done.
 
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That visor is in the garbage now. Along with my lunch. Good God man put more armor on!
Better?
56589767_402615013655154_5056458537949986816_n.png

And does the game count if it's in a photo?
I'm honestly not sure. If not, I've ruined a bunch of vacation photos of strangers for no reason.

I'm going to wash out my eyes w/ bleach now........then you don't have to worry about me watching this train wreck....I mean thread. At first I thought I was on the wrong website.....a new technique for a full body waxing gone horribly wrong. Then realized that it was much worse that that......and what's with the hand signal from the Cpl? The upside down "OK" hand signal? Is that like putting a flag upside down? An international signal for "HELP"? Don't blame her........if the front is exposed.....so is the back.......
View attachment 268573
I had to look up what the PG13 name for the game was and apparently it's just called the Circle Game. In my group of friends we use it as the Idle Cosplayer Pose/NPC Mode Pose. If you're in costume and not doing anything but waiting around, make the circle and count how many people take your photo without your permission while in the pose.
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The bad thing is you can see the back.... look to the right of the photo... there is a mirror... Dirtdives pass me the bleach when you are done.
You can't sneak any details past PaiganBoi :lol:

That poor girl......what she has to put up with.......definitely worthy of some type of an award. Greatest girl fried ever!!!! As an after-though......thank you for at least partially covering your face.......and your supernumerary nipple.......
You can present that award to CplYapFlip at Outpost Philly.
 
So far in terms of costumes I've done a bunch of generic mooks that are effectively just my personal avatars in game, I want to switch things up a bit and go for something a with a bit more lore crunch to it. May I introduce you all to my next planned Spartan suit, Spartan Daisy-023 from Halo Legends: Homecoming.
View attachment 263067
If anyone here is noticing a theme in my builds, yes I am a card carrying member of Red Team and I really, really like the CQB aesthetic. In Legends Daisy as a Spartan II wears a stylistic GEN1 Mark VI C Variant painted a rusty red to match the desert sands of Sargasso as camouflage. The animators slightly changed the Halo 3 version of the Mark VI armour so I will be using the Halo 3 armour set as reference in this build and add a few of their flair pieces as details because some of their design choices would require me to be both female and anime in proportions and I don't know if I can manage that.
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Daisy's loadout is simple and practical
  1. M6C Personal Defense Weapon System
  2. MA5B Individual Combat Weapon System
  3. Sniper Rifle System 99C-S2 Anti-Matériel
  4. Teddy-bear Charm
View attachment 263069View attachment 263070

I plan on using the files created by MoeSizzlac as a base for the legs, bracers, biceps and backpack portion of the suit and modelling the CQB chest, helmet and shoulders. The suit will be fully printed and finished with an external coating of XTC-3D and internal coating of EpoxAcoat GREY for strength and clumsy-resistance. The props will be a mix of EVA foam and 3D printed accent pieces to keep them light weight and easy to sling onto the back of the armour.

My goal is to have this suit finished for the first big convention of 2019 in Victoria so this build will progress relatively quickly for the 3 month completion time.

As usual I will use the original post as an index to link to other posts of note as well as a tracking sheet for progress and material consumption.

Wish me luck folks.
View attachment 263071

Scaling - Armorsmith
Reference Collection - 2 hours
Helmet - CQB - Painting
Modelling - 7 hours
File Cleanup - 10 hours
Chest - CQB - Painting
Modelling - 10 hours
File Cleanup - 12 hours
Shoulders/Biceps - CQB(R)/CQB(L) - Painting
Modelling - 6 hours
File Cleanup - 1 hour
Gauntlets - Mark VI - Painting
Printing - 50.9 hours
Assembly - 0.25 hours
Thighs- Mark VI - Painting
Shins/Boots - Mark VI - Painting
Under Suit - Sewing

M6C Personal Defense Weapon System - N/A
MA5B Individual Combat Weapon System - Patterned

Patterning - 1.5 hours
Sniper Rifle System 99C-S2 Anti-Matériel - Patterned
Patterning - 2 hours
Teddy-bear Charm - Patterned
Patterning - 1 hour
Combat Knife - Sanding
Modelling - 1 hour

Materials Consumed
eSun PLA+ Gray - 12kg
6 Minute Epoxy - 1 Syringe
Devcon 5 Minute Epoxy - 25oz Kit
BSI Insta-Cure+ CA Glue - 1 Bottle
BSI Insta-Set Spray Accelerator - 1 Bottle
Smooth Cast 65D - 1.9lb Kit
XTC-3D Epoxy Resin -
Krylon Triple Thick Clear Glaze
Krylon Chalky
Rustoleum 2X Primer
Rustoleum Colonial Red
Rustoleum Canyon Black
Rustoleum Clear
Vallejo Model Air Black Metallic
PETG
Jacquard iDye Poly Yellow
Jacquard iDye Poly Orange
Alclad II Chrome

Expendable Materials Consumed
Sanding Pads - 9 x 80grit, 5 x 120grit 5 x 220grit
Sanding Drums - 4
Sanding Sponges - 3
Respirator Filters - 2 changes
Mixing Cups
Chip Brushes
Sponge Brushes
Cling Wrap
Green Painters Tape
Yellow Frog Tape
Nitrile Gloves

Printer Replacement Parts
1 x NEMA17 Stepper Motor - 48mm TEVO Tornado Y-axis replacement
2 x 0.4 mm MK8 Brass Nozzle
1 x 0.4 mm MK10 Brass Nozzle
30cm PTFE tubing

Consumables Consumed
Number of Coffees Consumed - 22
Number of Rims Rolled Up - 15
Number of winning Rims - 1 x Coffee, 2 x Doughnut
Number of Energy Drinks Consumed - 5
Volume of Alcohol Consumed - Yes
Volume of alcohol consumed: Yes . HAD me rolling on the floor XD
 
TurboCharizard no else will say it, so it falls upon me, look at that sexy 13itch, you are welcome, and did some censoring for @Dirtdive!
More squats required. Gotta work out my Spartan Thighs to save some lives.

Because misery loves company.......
This is why I'm a fan of creating threads on the forum. I want to drag you all through the misery of endless hours of sanding :p

So no one has pointed this out yet...
Oops.

You are 100% correct xXDashIVXx!!! TurboCharizard is the one that should get that award. Her work is great!!!!
Did you hear that CplYapFlip? You're getting a better hero medal now!

Volume of alcohol consumed: Yes . HAD me rolling on the floor XD
I'm just glad that people are reading the goofy stuff I write in between the somewhat informational stuff :p

Visor Install Update

Previously I had left the visor update at forming and dyeing the PETG to the right shape and base colour required for Daisy. This time around I'd like to show you how I chrome my visors to get the proper reflective finish and install the piece within the helmet.

There are several schools of though on the "best" way to have a reflective finish on visors and I've attempted the following to varying degrees of success
  • Metallic spray paint in light mist (I was new to costuming and it seemed like a good idea)
  • Mirror tint film (not usable for complex curves and sharp shape transitions)
  • Krylon Looking Glass Silver (good opacity, difficult to coat evenly on curves)
  • Alclad II Lacquers (used for Daisy)
I may be biased towards airbrushing things but the ease of use for Alclad II Chrome is fantastic. I used a scrap piece of PETG to make a test sheet for Daisy to see the reflective finish and opacity at a different number of coats and different pressure settings on the compressor. Each section was divided by a strip of masking tape that was marked indicating the number of spray passes and pressure sprayed at. After playing around I decided eight fine coats with 16PSI was the combination I was after to obscure my face while not sacrificing too much clarity.

The outer side of the visor was masked off and the inside was coated with quick, even, light passes of the airbrush waiting for the lacquer to dry between coats.
DSC_0702.JPGDSC_0701.JPG

Removing the masking revealed the final form of the visor and in my opinion, it looks pretty cool. As usual with this method of chroming visors, light passing through the lens is the trick to visibility. On a table it looks like the piece is just orange on the outside and silver on the other.
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When held up to look through though you can still see clearly (obviously a little distortion) when looking out into a lit area and can't see into a dark area such as inside a helmet.
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For a good fit into helmets and ease of swapping out visors in case of damage or other reasons I like to add in a foam gasket that can be cut out and replaced as needed. Basically it's a sheet of black craft foam glued in place at the opening of the helmet and then trimmed to create a thin border around the visor. It's quick, easy and adds another layer of depth to the helmet which looks cool.
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Once it's trimmed to shape, tack the visor in and take some photos of your eager face.
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Share the image with your friends and then watch them edit it to make you even cuter.
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Add a bit of foam padding into the bucket and then you're good to go!
 
Paint Detailing: Round 1
For those who want to follow in the footsteps of this build the following colours were used and applied following the written directions of the manufacturers. This first round is to achieve a base level of weathering which gives the illusion of dirt and grime accumulation, after several wears I'll be adding chip damage at natural points of collisions and scrapes based on armour scratching and adding some points of story damage.

The shopping list is as follows. Links are to American Home Depot because I thought I'd switch it up for a change.
Painting was completed over the course of eight days to allow for cure times. Everything was primed in Gray, colour coated in red and then sections that were black were masked out. The black sections were then selectively highlighted with metallic black if the parts were mechanical in nature (venting and panels). Gasket material on the legs was given a rubberized texture using Leak Seal. Secondary armour colours were left as a satin black.
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Tertiary armour colours (yellow) were masked out, white was applied to brighten contrast and then two coats of airbrush yellow was applied.
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Using a brown that still has hints of red as a shadow/dust shade in armour recesses allows panels and details that would normally blend in to pop and stand out. It's all a game of exaggerating detail while still blending in and staying believable. This requires an accurate hand with an airbrush and a plan of approach. Since the trick to airbrushing is starting off of your canvas and planning a path on where you're going without focusing on where you are, some sections are more difficult than others. Focus on creases and recesses between plates and if you can't find a path off of the piece start and end in a place that would naturally have heavy shadow and grime.
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Put it all together and admire your new SPARTAN-II operative. Thanks to CplYapFlip for the glamour shot of Daisy-023!
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There's still some posts left in this 3D printed suit thread including the tech suit sewing, weapon props, heavy weathering and electronics so stay tuned!
 

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