Halo Reach Armor Build


Samuelskinny

New Member
Hello! I am quite new around here but I have already been introduced to a couple of the 405th members on the Facebook group. I look forward to becoming a part of this community and doing my part to contribute to the wealth of knowledge that this community crates.

Description
What I plan to do here is create a full Halo Reach armor set that is 3D printed and is as photo-realistic do the in-game model as possible. As a long-term goal I would either want to vacuum form this armor or create different armor using this one as a template out of either carbon fiber or fiberglass. And yes I wany you to be picky about my armor because I am striving for quality not time. So please, if you see anything that is concerning, please post it. Also if you have any questions do not be afraid to ask. I am more active on the Facebook group if you have a time based question, but be sure to post it on here!

Method
As I build and printing armor I will be keeping a log book of pertinent information such as printer settings, issues, thoughts, and general information about the build. I foresee this build requiring 3D printing, and foam work to complete but seeing as I worked and Auto Body I feel I'm qualified to get the specifications down.

Armor loadout and weapons

EOD Mark V helmet
Mark V base armor
Collar/Grenadier [UA] over chest
Left shoulder cqc plate
Right shoulder commando
Soft pack utility
Tactical ugps forearm

Sidearm m6g magnum
Main weapon m41 spankr
20201122_110701.jpg
20201122_110759.jpg
 

Samuelskinny

New Member
I will make this my first update on the project.

It took a week of printing but the helmet is finally tangible! There are some holes that the printer was unable to fill but overall it turned out excellent!

I am printing on a cr10 V3 using Overture black pla filament.

Settings
Temp 200c end/ 50c bed
20%infill
.3 mm layers

Glue bob Smith industries Hobbie glue with accelerant. ( all hail accelerant! Hail!)

20201212_200932.jpg
20201212_200948.jpg
20201211_111221.jpg
20201209_181542.jpg
20201209_212250.jpg
 

Samuelskinny

New Member
I've had an interesting two days now with wood filler and sanding. After much sanding I finally started applying wood filler. I found out that wood filler on 90° edges are harder to clean up than a wine stain on white carpet!

But with a hobbie knife and time I have some of them worked out. (a lot more left to go sadly) I had to do a coat of primer to see where I was and it definitely revealed a lot. Which is good and bad, at least now I know what i have left to go which is satisfying in its own way.

The rocket launcher is going well but I'm in the middle of the 48 hr main body print so my nerves are strung tightly. But slow and steady wins the race... Right?
20201216_231615.jpg
20201216_151353.jpg
20201216_231622.jpg
 

TurboCharizard

Division PR, RXO and BCO
Division Staff
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
Member DIN
S068
That's a... solid chunk o plastic. If there's any more large parts like that you might want to jump into Meshmixer and carve out some voids to save on material.
 

Samuelskinny

New Member
tvanhelene Chooka
I cut it down to 5%infill for my next piece and I use gyroid because it only adds about 2% time increase over any cubic or lines infil method, but I believe it spreads out the material more making the piece stronger. I don't know and I have no bais for that reasoning.

MrJamin i am using the files from TheApropalypse on youtube and thingiverse. It's a full size to scale spankr using pvc and metal tubing
 
Top