"Help!" for: Papercraft or Pepakura

Discussion in 'New Recruits' started by 23Magnum, Aug 20, 2010.

  1. Katsu


    Ohh... the numbers are SUPPOSED to be on the outside, I see what you mean now.. I thought you meant on the paper they were floating in the space between pieces.

    The tabs are meant to be glued on the inside. Can you post a picture of what the problem is so we can avoid further miscommunication?

    If the tabs are physically on the outer surface of the piece, it may or may not be a problem. It may not be if the bondo ends up covering everything. It may be a problem if you sand down too far and hit the tabs and cause them to fray out.
  2. Artifice

    Artifice RXO 405th Regiment Officer

    Hey all Artifice here, I haven't found a place that already has this, but if I have over looked it I apologize if it is in another thread but here's the question.

    I have bin building armor for about a year now but I haven't had this problem.
    My edge ID numbers are not printed out with the image when I print the pages off.

    In my 2D menu the edge ID's are ON but then don't seem to print? Any help?

    PS haven't posted in a wile so sorry if I have forgotten to do anything
  3. Katsu


    Asking questions in the stickies is fine. There are 200+ pages in many of them, no way anyone could be expected to read that.

    As for the number problem, it seems to happen often. To fix it you really need to fiddle with the settings as it seems like it varies from person to person.

    I'd first look at the print preview and see if it shows the numbers in there also. If you see numbers in the print preview it can be an issue with the vector settings. For ME what seems to work under "File -> Print and Paper Settings" is to have lineweight 2, Vector Print, I check print page number and alignment marks too, have bitmap resolution on very high and then mess around with the transparency slider. I don't know if any of those are affecting it, but it can't hurt to try someone else's "works for me" settings.

    It can also help to use the "other" pepakura program than your main. If Designer isn't working, try printing with Viewer, if that works, see if there are settings different between the two.
  4. RangedAssassin

    RangedAssassin New Member

    Quick question.

    When making armour is it better to pick pep files made by the same person for all your pieces or can you combine different ppls files?
  5. Cereal Killl3r

    Cereal Killl3r Well-Known Member

    You can mix and match any pieces you want. Pepakura is a template for you to finish off. As long as the pieces are all HD or LD then you're fine. Just make sure to check you're scaling.
  6. RangedAssassin

    RangedAssassin New Member

    Thanks Cereal,

    That's the answer I was hoping for! Btw I'm a subscriber to your YouTube channel. Big fan. Keep up the good work!
  7. Renton117

    Renton117 New Member

    Hay guys I don't know if I should post this here or in the fiberglass, bondo and resin sticky, but here it goes I'm hardening the out side of my armour with resin as it is recommended, but what do I use to harden the inside?

    Now that I've typed this it seems it is probably more appropriate in the bondo resin sticky, sorry.
  8. JayOneSeven

    JayOneSeven Jr Member

    On the inside you do the same, layer it with Resin. The big difference is that while the resin is still wet you lay fiberglass cloth (or mat) in over the top of it, and dab it in with a paint brush. This will allow the resin to kinda grab the fiberglass cloth, and give it even more structural support.

    There is, also, a second method called Rondo.
    Rondo is a combination of Resin and Bondo, mixed about 70-30 (or however you want it) and then it is sloshed around the inside of your piece. This is obviously better for certain pieces and not so good for others. It also adds a bit more weight than just straight glassing (glassing is what we call the fiberglass cloth method) but it gets tiny crevices better.
  9. Renton117

    Renton117 New Member

    So the cloth method or rondo is used on the insides of things like gauntlets and things like that?
  10. Katsu


    The two things to use when hardening the inside are fiberglass resin + fiberglass cloth, and/or rondo.

    Some will do JUST fiberglass resin+cloth, the pros: Light, strong. cons: can get airbubbles, difficult to lay on complex pieces.
    Some will do JUST rondo, the pros: easy to use, VERY easy to use. cons: Brittle, heavy.

    I personally do a blend. I lay rondo inside the helmet first. This smoothes out the hard edges of the pepakura piece. Those edges are where you can form airbubbles with fiberglass! With the rondo poured evenly inside, you can then lay fiberglass over that (inside.. you know what I mean!) and it will lay very smooth and easily, and provide the skeleton and strength for the rondo.
  11. Renton117

    Renton117 New Member

    Ok cool and that would be the same principal for other pieces like chest, legs, shins, shoulders and forearms?
  12. Katsu


    Yes, but with non-helmets you have to be more careful with the rondo since it's viscous (the helmet acts like a bucket so it's harder to get it to spill).

    The other benefit to a rondo layer followed by fiberglass is you have the strength of fiberglass, but can sand the outside down into the rondo layer when you cut detail lines.
  13. Renton117

    Renton117 New Member

    Ok thank you, another question if I have foam template unfolds can I turn them back into pep files by adding flaps and edge Id or is it a bit harder than that?
  14. Carpathia


    You will essentially have to either rearrange everything, or re-unfold the piece. Either way, it might just be simpler to save a copy of a pep unfold before you modify it for use with foam.


    This thread has been retired and replaced with an updated FAQ thread. If you have posted a question here that has not been answered, check the FAQ thread. Further one-time questions can be found or directed there.

    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 2, 2017

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