"Help!" for: Papercraft or Pepakura

Discussion in 'New Recruits' started by 23Magnum, Aug 20, 2010.

  1. robospartan

    robospartan New Member

    thank you very much katsu

    i have a account at 4shared so that is oke found a much nicer one indeed as u said thank you.
    just printed it out so this evening i know what i have to do haha
    maby go to the city after work do think i need some stronger paper now printed it on office paper think it will we to fragile to apply resin on but than i just print i again this evening
     
  2. Katsu

    Katsu

    Regular paper won't work.

    If you can, get 110lbs cardstock or at least 60lbs. Regular paper will collapse when you try to resin it.
     
  3. robospartan

    robospartan New Member

    that was what i was thinking just looked on the site of the local hobby store and the have the 110lbs already called and i can pick u 100 sheats at the end of the day it wass all they had in stock :( but placed an order for aditional 300 think that will be enough for the entire suit if not just order more later on
     
  4. robospartan

    robospartan New Member

    picked up the paper and you were right thank you katsu it is much better also picked up a cutting mat and a scalpel like knife so i dont have to use a scissor anymore

    now lets start building :p
     
  5. robospartan

    robospartan New Member

    im having some problems with the pepekura program every model im trying to print out fails pages 1 to 9 all are fine but after that i only get numbers and nomore lines anyone has any idea how this is posible because before it was working just fine :S
     
  6. recon313

    recon313 Jr Member

    have you try adding transparency of the printer ?
     
  7. robospartan

    robospartan New Member

    my dad found the problem something in the settings of the printer now lets continue :)
     
  8. Sal86

    Sal86 New Member

    Ok, I've successfully pieced together a noble six helmet and now I am moving onto the Mark IV chest armor. My problem now is the fold. There are big dashed lines and slightly smaller dashed lines ( There is no - *- *- for the valley fold) and I am not sure if the smaller dashed lines are for valley or mountain folds?
     
  9. Renton117

    Renton117 New Member

    Hay mate this one stumped me as well the lines like this _-_-_ are valley and these ones ------ are mountain.
     
  10. Renton117

    Renton117 New Member

    Sorry for the double post but while I'm here I noticed my oceanic helmet had to different styles of build and folding on the same section but on opposite sides of the helm, is there a a way to go this or?
     
  11. JayOneSeven

    JayOneSeven Jr Member

    Depends on the person that unfolded it.
    Sometimes valleys are . _ . _ . _ . _
    But generally anything that isn't --------- is a valley.
     
  12. Sal86

    Sal86 New Member

    The problem is that valley folds are exactly like mountain folds, only smaller. I managed to figure it out anyway after getting nervous how I might screw up the folding. So basically the larger dashed lines are mountains, no matter what.

    Thanks for the help, guys.
     
  13. RobotChicken

    RobotChicken

    Actually, that's not necessarily true. When you download an unfolded .pdo file, the default line patterns will be however they were defined by the person who did the unfold and uploaded the file. The line patterns (and colors) can be changed in the program's settings. If you don't like how they look, simply go into the settings and change the line styles to suit your preference. So "no matter what" can potentially mislead you depending on the line styles for a particular file.
     
  14. Carpathia

    Carpathia

    RobotChicken is right, assuming that a linetype is a particular fold is a bad idea.

    Just to avoid any confusion, when I get ready to pep a model, I always set both fold line types to solid, then color code them (red=mountain, blue=valley). Even on the smallest tab, there's no confusing a valley fold with a mountain fold.
     
  15. Sal86

    Sal86 New Member

    I wasn't aware of that. Thanks for the tips. Much appreciated.
     
  16. Dorvack

    Dorvack Jr Member

    So, I'm plugging away at my Iron man helmet and unfortunately have managed to glue a piece about a millimeter away from where it should be.

    I can't unpick it and, as I'm about a 3rd of the way through the pep stage, I don't want to start again... again, so I'm wondering: Is 1 millimeter going to cause a problem?

    It's a really simple build, but the piece connects to about 10 other pieces, so I'm just wondering...
     
  17. Sal86

    Sal86 New Member

    Did you superglue it or hotglue it? I am very picky at how the numbers should line up since a slight deviation can throw off the whole structure. My best bet is to fix any slight warps when resining and bondoing later on.
     
  18. Carpathia

    Carpathia

    You could always cut the part away and use the remaining 1mm of the tab to reglue. Either that, or cut it and temporarily tape it into place, then run a bead of glue on the inside to marry the two pieces together. Just remember to remove the tape before you resin. A small gap like that could go unnoticed later on, or it could cause a dramatic warp; it all depends on how crucial the piece is.
     
  19. Dorvack

    Dorvack Jr Member

    Fast cure white glue and no numbers...

    I'm thinking it should be okay, but I'm pedantic at best so it's slightly bugging me.
     
  20. Sal86

    Sal86 New Member

    I think I might have done the folds backward now. The torso armor wasn't looking right to me as I folded, then I realized the side with no numbers and with the tabs showing is the correct side that is facing outward and the side with the numbers and fold lines are on the inside of the armor.

    Is this a normal occurring for the exterior of the torso to be completely blank from numbers and have tabs on the outside? Or did I accidentally inverted the fold lines? Everything looks fine so far, I am just really concerned about the tabs being shown on the exterior of the armor rather than hidden from view in the interior.
     
  21. Carpathia

    Carpathia

    No. The numbers are supposed to go on the outside, unless the 3D model itself is inside out. Do you have a link tot the model you're working on?
     
  22. Sal86

    Sal86 New Member

  23. Katsu

    Katsu

    If you are having numbers on the outside of the pieces (If I am reading this correctly...) There is a setting in pepakura designer under "Settings -> Other Settings -> Others -> Place edge ID inside of face" Try toggling that to the opposite of what it is (checked or unchecked) for some reason with me, unchecked makes the ID be inside the piece, and checked makes it float outside.
     
  24. Sal86

    Sal86 New Member

    It's not just the number, but the tabs are also on the exterior of the torso armor. I am concerned it will affect the details later on.
     
  25. Dorvack

    Dorvack Jr Member

    Wow, so you built the torso piece inside out.

    To be honest, depending on the thickness of the bondo layer you are planning to put on the outside of the armor, this shouldn't affect the details too much, but you may find that you hit paper more often than you normally would have when sanding.
     

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