"Help!" for: Papercraft or Pepakura
- Thread starter 23Magnum
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wow no i didn't prob should have lol
Carolina1093
New Member
Hello! I am completely new to making Halo armor and I am very excited about it! I downloaded pepakura and started working on the rogue helmet found in the Halo costuming wiki. Instead of starting with cardstock, I started with regular printer paper just to see if I could do it and if it was sized okay. If all ends well, I am going to start on my card stock helmet. Before I started, I watched several videos on how to do this and apparently the numbers are supposed to be on the outside of the helmet and the flaps on the inside. It's turning out great except for the numbers are on the inside and the flaps on the outside. Is this okay or do I need to fix it before I start with card stock? Thanks for your time!
Carpathia
Sr Member
Welcome to the 405th!
Yeah, the tabs are supposed to be inside of the model and the numbers on the outside. It sounds like one of two things have happened.
The first, an most likely, as I have seen this model and it looks fine, is that you have the types of folds mixed up. It sounds like you have created valley folds where there are supposed to be mountain folds and mountain folds where there are supposed to be valley folds. This would invert the model, making it inside out.
The second possibility is that the model was modeled and imported into pepakura inside out. If this is the case, the model in pepakura will appear a gray color on the outside and white on the inside. In a normal pep model, the outside is always white while the inside is gray. If the model is indeed inside out in the program, then there are a few things you can do. First, you can switch the types of folds. If it appears as a mountain fold, make it a valley fold, and if it appears as a valley fold, make it a mountain fold. This, as mentioned before, will essentially invert the model. The second and more difficult option for beginners is to undo the unfold, turn the model inside out by clicking the 3D Menu tab, then clicking "Change Coordinates" then "Invert Faces." This will turn the 3D model inside out, then you can click the unfold button, specify the size and rearrange all the pieces.
To me, since I have seen this model before and it appears that it was modeled correctly, it sounds like you simply have the types of folds mixed up. What I do to ensure that I make the correct folds is to assign a color to the different types of folds. I make mountain folds red and valley folds blue, then I make both line types solid, so I can tell what kind of fold they are on the tiny tabs.
Hope this helps!
Carolina1093
New Member
Thank you! I've been folding dotted lines as mountain folds and dashed lines as valley folds and in pepakura the outside of the model is white and the inside is grey. Weird. But I think i'll just fold them oppositely. Thank you so much for the help! I really appreciate it!
Rising Valkyrie
New Member
Hello, I need a bit of help on sizing pep files to body parts I don't know the size of.
The project I want to work on is a 1:1 scale of a Warhammer 40K: Space Marine. They stand at about 8ft tall but that is all I know on size.
What I would like to know is; Does anyone have a simple method on how to work out the height of each piece?
The project I want to work on is a 1:1 scale of a Warhammer 40K: Space Marine. They stand at about 8ft tall but that is all I know on size.
What I would like to know is; Does anyone have a simple method on how to work out the height of each piece?
Skullptura
Member
Don't take this the wrong way mate, but you need to read the forum boards. They tell you all that. There are several different methods too. Good luck with your project though. Would like to see it 
paint11111
New Member
Is it possible to mirror a pepakura file?
I found a file that i need but it only has the left side is it possible to mirror the file for the right side?
I found a file that i need but it only has the left side is it possible to mirror the file for the right side?
Carpathia
Sr Member
In the 2D tab, click on "Invert Pattern." That will reverse all the parts and create a mirror of the model. The 3D model will not change, only the 2D parts.
Carpathia
Sr Member
Either one will do, because when you change on in Pep Designer, the other measurements will change to keep the model proportional. Your best bet is to measure from shoulder to shoulder for the measurement you use to figure out the chest piece size. I would also recommend (if one is available) building a low def version of the chest with the dimensions before moving to a high def version.
RunningRiot4Fun
New Member
Hey Guys! I have been a member for a few years and have already done one helmet. I recently got the itch to try and build a new helmet so I went and downloaded the FLYINGSQUIRL HD model. I scaled it and put all the pieces within the boxes on the right hand side of the PEP program..... well, when I went to print it off, all the parts were printing like half on the sheets of paper and half off!! Has anyone ever experienced this? Oh, and when I went to check "Print Preview" everything shows up half on the paper and half off.. I tried messing with the settings, searching the forums and using Google and still can't find a solution to this Please respond if you know how I can fix this! thanks!
Please respond if you know how I can fix this! thanks!
Carpathia
Sr Member
Hey Guys! I have been a member for a few years and have already done one helmet. I recently got the itch to try and build a new helmet so I went and downloaded the FLYINGSQUIRL HD model. I scaled it and put all the pieces within the boxes on the right hand side of the PEP program..... well, when I went to print it off, all the parts were printing like half on the sheets of paper and half off!! Has anyone ever experienced this? Oh, and when I went to check "Print Preview" everything shows up half on the paper and half off.. I tried messing with the settings, searching the forums and using Google and still can't find a solution to this
Can you get a screen shot of your settings? It sounds like the paper orientation is not matching up, but I think it would help to see a few pictures of what's going on.
RunningRiot4Fun
New Member
yes sir! what settings do you need a pic of? just the printer settings or? and where would you like me to post it! Thanks for the quick response too!
Carpathia
Sr Member
The printer settings and a general screen shot of the 2d side in pepakura. And a picture of either what was printed out or the print preview you're looking at.
RunningRiot4Fun
New Member
k, pics are taken. where would you like me to post it? Sorry, I know its a noob question but I have never posted in these forums before. i could just show you on skype if that would be easier just let me know
Carpathia
Sr Member
Put them up on a third party photo sharing website, photobucket is the best, then copy the image url and paste it here using the picture icon on the top of the dialog window.
Or you can use this method (pretty much the same, but the vid explains it better)...
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/31725-How-to-post-pictures-in-threads-(Video-tutorial)?highlight=post+pictures
Apple Slicer
New Member
Hi,
I'm new to these forums, though I've done a lot of looking around here for information.
I made a Rogue helmet with pep, but it was a tester made with mostly clear tape. ( I know, dont use). So I made a second helmet using a Low-Temp Hot glue gun, happy with the scaling results.
Every thing looks alright...but, the helmet is crooked unless I sort of push in the helmet on the left side, like my last one... ( If you were wearing the helmet, your left).
I can see that this problem has to do with the actual paper model itself, not my crafting, as you can see it in this helmet build here as well. LINK
I've also tried running "supports" on the inside with scrap 110lb paper, but it only worsens the warpage. Ive tried simply gluing addition pieces to the walls for additional strength, but the tug of the warp is too strong for it to make any difference.
How do you all fix this problem? I've heard resin dries pretty fast. Could I resin it and hold it straight while it dries?
I could take a photo if needed.
EDIT: I feel a bit silly, but I found this post after digging through this thread. LINK
Its not quite the answer I was hoping for, but I'm printing my third (and hopefully) final helmet right now from my printer. I am going to try to make it as perfect as I can. This time, I think I might resin certain pieces individually, but leave the edges regular paper. That way, i can put the whole thing together, and resin everything thats left.
I'm new to these forums, though I've done a lot of looking around here for information.
I made a Rogue helmet with pep, but it was a tester made with mostly clear tape. ( I know, dont use). So I made a second helmet using a Low-Temp Hot glue gun, happy with the scaling results.
Every thing looks alright...but, the helmet is crooked unless I sort of push in the helmet on the left side, like my last one... ( If you were wearing the helmet, your left).
I can see that this problem has to do with the actual paper model itself, not my crafting, as you can see it in this helmet build here as well. LINK
I've also tried running "supports" on the inside with scrap 110lb paper, but it only worsens the warpage. Ive tried simply gluing addition pieces to the walls for additional strength, but the tug of the warp is too strong for it to make any difference.
How do you all fix this problem? I've heard resin dries pretty fast. Could I resin it and hold it straight while it dries?
I could take a photo if needed.
EDIT: I feel a bit silly, but I found this post after digging through this thread. LINK
Its not quite the answer I was hoping for, but I'm printing my third (and hopefully) final helmet right now from my printer. I am going to try to make it as perfect as I can. This time, I think I might resin certain pieces individually, but leave the edges regular paper. That way, i can put the whole thing together, and resin everything thats left.
Carpathia
Sr Member
This is actually a common problem for helmets that are built without supports or designed-in visors. I know that this file has a visor designed-in, so if you have not done so, pep in the visor and that should resolve the alignment issue. If you are adamant about not putting in the visor, I would recommend using something stronger than cardstock on the inside. A common material to use is dowel rods, bamboo skewers or foam core strips; something that is more rigid than the helmet material.
You could try resining it and holding it in place, but you'll have to have a TON of patience, resin dries fairly quickly (about 10 - 15 minutes) but it will take it a few hours to fully cure, which is when the strength is introduced. So, it's best to get the helmet reinforced, holding its shape properly on its own, before you start resining.
Edit: You've posted a link to a post that I actually make a recommendation a few posts later, where I suggest putting the visor in.
Apple Slicer
New Member
Thanks for the help. Indeed I put the entire visor in. I plan to simply cut it out later and vacu-form my own down the road. However, its apparent the problem roots from the way some of the tabs are designed differently on either side. I just downloaded the community pack and noticed that the helmet provided in there is different then the version i have. I might try that one, but for now, I'm debating whether to start on a simpler piece of armor.
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