Jun-A266 WIP & Augmented Reality System & AEG

Discussion in 'New Recruits' started by nemesis2500, Jan 12, 2017.

  1. nemesis2500


    DeadzManWalking Thanks, this is some really helpful advice, I think I've found a way to make a V2 fit and as I already own one I'll initially be trying with that however if it doesn't work out I'll probably switch to a V3 for the spacing and motor alignment benefits it provides. And yeah, currently I have a few Magpul hicap magazines from an old M4 but the VN style seems a lot more appropriate so I'll take a look.

    Thom A293 Thanks, hopefully it'll work out, (otherwise I'll be stuck without an airsoft rifle). Alignment could be an issue in this build too as if my caliper measurements aren't nigh on perfect and the prints don't come out well then stuff could start getting very wonkey very quickly.

    In the mean time, turns out the drawing I used in the canvas was out of scale, I measured the approximate length of the rifle only to find it was over a meter, well an AUG is only about 80cm, so something went wrong there, I've now acquired a new image for scaling and design as you can see here:
    side view.PNG
    Only problem is as DeadzManWalking rightly pointed out, the motor is cutting it VERY close, and this is still a meter long, so I'll have to modify the stock design a little from the artwork but other than that it all lines up fairly nicely, so the next step it to get a mosfet unit, a battery and a new trigger mechanism and get that modelled into the file, then we can get measurements of cables and lengths so we can cut channels in for cables to run and some for metal supports to sit in. In addition I need to figure out how to mount a ris rail to a 3D printed part (securely) so that's going to require a bit of thought, then there's the consideration of weighting, ideally a rifle should have a centre of mass located around the handle of the rifle (I think, if I'm wrong someone please tell me :D ). So as this is going to be a very back heavy rifle (with the large chunk of metal that the gearbox and motor are in the back) we'll have to counterbalance it, IE. the battery will probably be situated towards the front of the rifle and we may even add in additional weights to improve the feel of the rifle. And because I'm growing more and more attached to that scope style I'm looking into how holosights function to see if we can't modify one a little.
    Thom A293 likes this.
  2. Thom A293

    Thom A293

    It would be spending some money, but you could buy a different gearbox she'll, one that is more for dmrs. I think it's the v7? I could be 100% wrong though, I know it's one of the v's.
  3. nemesis2500


    Knew I had this somewhere:
    gearbox versions.jpg
    So I believe it's a V4 gearbox that snipers use, however being the cheapskate I am I'll stick to my V2 and if it doesn't pack enough punch I can always upgrade it.

    Edit: A quick update on the modelling process, I've begun to bulk out the shape of the rifle:
    V2 Gearbox v35.png
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2017
    mblackwell1002 likes this.
  4. nemesis2500


    Well, this is my first proper update on the AEG.
    So the bulk of the modelling on the rifle is done:
    V2 Gearbox v78.png
    I'm aware there's a lot of detail to add still so I'll be slowly going through the model adding every piece of detail I can find. There's a few inaccuracies from the game model but in general I think it's pretty accurate.
    Hope ya'll enjoy, I'll be back with more progress soon. :D

    I think I've finished on the detail, (I just know now that I've said that I'm going to keep on seeing more details I have to add). So here's the first render I've got off, more coming tomorrow!
    (mblackwell1002 before you even start on the colour it is in white it just appears the cloud servers didn't get the message ;) )

    Edit 2:
    As promised here's a couple more renders
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2017
    Thom A293 and mblackwell1002 like this.
  5. Noble44

    Noble44 New Member

    Could also mount magnetic reed switch at back of helmet with a magnet attached to a neck warmer. Makes putting on helmet easier, and turns on helmet electronics only when you put it on.

    Maybe style a small flexible fridge magnet like a neural interface

    Just some ideas I guess.
    PerniciousDuke likes this.
  6. CrimsonViper97


    How low profile is the video headset you're planning on using for the ar system? I think this is just me being stupid but I'm having trouble visualizing how it's going to fit into the helmet.
  7. nemesis2500


    Sorry all, it's ramping up to exam season for me now so you may see the odd bit of progress however there won't be a huge amount. (although some stuff is starting to get 3D printed and my internals for the airsoft project have arrived).

    Now then. Noble44 That idea of the electronic reed switch is amazing, I absolutely love it, it's going on the list of things I'll have to fit into the final iteration. And something like the little chip on the back of the head would be pretty easy to do (shame I'm far from bald though so I may need to adapt the location).

    CrimsonViper97 you're far from being stupid there, fitting this stuff in is going to be a logistical nightmare. However I'll try and give you a rough idea of the locations of components. So arguably the most awkward component is the screen itself, I currently have two options, stick with my current screen and mount it as snugly to the visor as possible (this may cause issues with focal distances for my eyes causing eye strain although I do have a few lenses that could potentially fix that), the other option is to use video goggles, (the same ilk as used by Sandbagger in his iron man helmet), these would solve the focal distance problem, however it would probably sacrifice resolution. The Pi can sit in the front peak of the helmet and the battery I'll probably wire into the torso (I don't want to be strapping a LiPo battery to my head for extended periods of time). Hope this gives you a better idea, I'll probably end up with video goggles in the end purely for convenience (plus lower resolution = higher frame rate and spare processing which allows for more fancy post processing and features).
  8. nemesis2500


    So, Update time! This time it's some physical progress instead of CAD work.
    So my sanding station all set up with sandpaper from 180 through to 5000 grit:
    The two handplates I'll be sanding. These have already received two passes from 180 through to 1200 grit paper on the raw printed plastic. Then two coats of filler primer. And the one on the left has received a pass from 400 grit to 1200 grit.
    First thing was to catch the other handplate up to the already sanded one, so I sanded it up to 1200 grit.
    If you thought the 1200 grit looked kinda smooth then the 5000 grit is amazing. The one on the left has been run up to 5000 grit and the smoothness and depth of colour it brought out was surprising.
    20170524_162929133_iOS.jpg So next was to sand the other handplate to 5000 grit.
    So then time for priming!
    And in terms of general prop work this is a magnum that I made a while ago (not to happy with the seams or paintjob but figured I'd post it anyway)
    So next up is some progress on the airsoft rifle.
    My M4 arrived in some rather exuberant shades of green (due to UK laws on imitation fire arms I had to order it painted like this)
    The M4 can then be split into two parts by the removal of a body pin:
    This exposes the gearbox, hop up and inner barrel.
    From there you can remove the inner barrel and hop up as shown below:
    20170524_165248108_iOS.jpg And it also exposes the gearbox and once the stock has been removed the rear wiring of the gearbox for the battery:
    Once I take these components out I'll begin tolerance testing my CAD model and making the rifle itself. In the mean time I'm also working on the paints I need to get the correct colour scheme for Jun. Hope you've all enjoyed :D
  9. mblackwell1002


    So yeah man, that looks awesome. When do you plan on printing the whole deal? The hands themselves look papeesheewoosh, and you're right, the sanding really brings out the color! I bet if you sanded it after painting it would produce both a weathered and vibrant look.

    I'm eagerly waiting on your other parts. Really curious about the forearms. They'll be tough to sand....I think they'll turn out great, though!

    And that airsoft...ooohhhooo..:D
  10. GMer56

    GMer56 Well-Known Member

    Last time I checked many consumer cameras are capable of distinguishing infrared. Light up an infrared LED (for a full flashlight maybe replace the LED in a single-LED flashlight?) and point your camera at it to check. Should show up on-screen as a white color, and no visible light to the naked eye!
    From a tactical standpoint it lights you up like a beacon to others with IR vision but good for gits and shiggles.

    I'll keep an eye on this: all this talk of HUDs, AR and whatnot might be useful in a future version of my mech.
    But alas, I once tried VR: turns out I'm stereoblind and never knew! Perhaps for just one eye...
    mblackwell1002 likes this.
  11. Voren Marr

    Voren Marr

    Nice work buddy. Your skills are epic
    nemesis2500 likes this.
  12. Noble44

    Noble44 New Member

    Eventually you'll get to the undersuit part. These could be of use. 4752817_13_ride-tech-undersuit-summer_1pc_1.jpg

    Alpine-Stars 1pc Ridetech. Red and Black.


    Or.... Black regular lycra suit and add bits to it.

    BMP Props sells Dragonskin silicone undersuit parts. Have fun choosing.
  13. CommanderPalmer


    Noble44 Jun wore Mark V armor, those parts are for GEN2 undersuit, so... completely wrong in this case...
  14. Noble44

    Noble44 New Member

    Ayos it's all chill man. Yeah it's the Gen 2 undersuit. But that's if he wants to pull off a Vigilant armor. The lycra-suit though still useable.
  15. CommanderPalmer


    Noble44 Um, what? Have I missed something? I thought Jun from Reach? O_O All his armor parts look like Mark V from Halo Reach and not from Halo 5... also he literally references from Halo Reach everywhere all the time. o_O
  16. Noble44

    Noble44 New Member

    Yo. I don't mean no disrespect. Just puttin out some helpful stuff. I ain't here to start a problem. His choice to take what I put out, not mine.
  17. nemesis2500


    First off I'd like to apologise, this isn't nearly the size of update I wanted to be able to post after so song, but it's what I've been able to get done whilst doing my exams. :(
    Now then
    Noble44 thanks for the suggestion, I'll take a look, I'm currently looking into the neck seal as it happens, however it is a Halo Reach suit, but if I can find out what those seals are made from that could be pretty useful.
    CommanderPalmer You're right, this is a reach suit :D (and by the way fantastic work on your suit).
    GMer56 interesting, I'd never heard that before, you're probably right, I don't suppose you know if the default PiCam is capable of it? Anyhows I have the NearIR one now so.......... :cautious: And I was planning to mount an IR light source otherwise a near IR cam wouldn't be able to operate, I'm not sure this suit is for tactical usage ;) so it's okay if I'm a walking beacon.
    Voren Marr Thanks man!

    Now then onto the update!
    First off I'm disappointed! No one told me I'd missed this! ;)
    missing screw.PNG
    On the top screw in that image I missed out modelling a screw head on the torso, can't have that now.
    So that's now fixed.:D

    Next up, another somewhat minor fix on the shin, after doing a tiny print (27.8% scale relative to my height (6ft 2")) I realised that it didn't really look much like the real thing, it was just too flat, so I scrapped it and modelled a new one, some photo's will make the point more than my words will.
    Shin_2 v45.png
    Can you spot the difference? I re modelled the centre piece to be more accurate.

    Next up, post has arrived, about 2kg of ABS plastic, so I'm either going to use it to finish my tiny little 27.8% scale model or to start on the real thing, not too sure yet. (Or to prototype the airsoft rifle as that's still a thing too).
    Next up should be re modelling the forearms into a more game accurate version, then onto the thighs.

    As for the current state of the AR system as that is generating some interest, I'm currently amassing components, coding will resume soon once I solder a few things and make sure I don't blow any more stuff up. o_O So more progress soon hopefully.
    Hope y'all enjoy :D

    Attached Files:

    mblackwell1002 and SI3RRA 117 like this.
  18. Noble44

    Noble44 New Member

    The neck seal and those undersuit parts made of dragonskin silicone. Polymer manufacturers and some epoxy companies like Smooth-On make them. Only hard part with it's making the mold really.
  19. CommanderPalmer


    nemesis2500 I've been lurking here for a longer time just enjoying how much effort and time you're putting into this incredible looking build, but I'm more looking forward to the more 'physical' part. :D But really beautiful modelling work. So detailed. <3

    If you're looking into undersuit, I recommend totally Gabe's Lost Viking Props's build. For all those parts he used upholstery foam and plastidipped them.

    383_10207621602710821_5139464986172620355_n.jpg 12717990_10207621603350837_2540317460732994671_n.jpg
  20. GMer56

    GMer56 Well-Known Member

    Infrared sensitivity is pretty much standard on camera sensors, depending on the make. Cheaper cameras tend to have thinner filters, thus letting in more infrared light. You can check the camera by looking at the IR sensor on a Wii or TV remote and pressing buttons (apparently they use Infrared). Should see some white light flashing.

    You can pick up an Infrared filter or two from Amazon if you wanna get fancy.

    And great moogly googly those 3d models are detailed o_O

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