Draxes

Member
So thanks to this awesome community, and a special shoutout to [SIZE=4]SgtSaint[/SIZE], JSLund, The Tiny Geek, TylerBH2014, WandererTJ, willdillmill, TorrinNorixius, marinesniper, Invidiax4fan, SIERRA720, and especially Rock Lobbster. What I learned from you all got me started me on my 3 month adventure to 3D print my first cosplay outfit. I had been tinkering around with my Bambu X1C since February, teaching myself everything I could about 3D printing and modeling and I was just starting to get a handle on this amazing printer to undertake this rather large task of printing Master Chief's newest armor.

I'll do my best to explain all my steps and what I learned in this post. If you have any questions I'll do my best to answer them.

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Why Master Chief Infinite Armor? I have been a fan of Halo when it was announced for the Mac back in like I think 1999. I even got to play an early demo on a Macintosh at a IT convention in 2000. Boy was it a different game back then and NOT at all like the Ringworld books I grew up on. I LOVE Master Chiefs new armor in Halo Infinite. I definitely am partial to the armor in Halo 1-3, but the improvements they made in how the armor looks so much tougher is great! I chose to start printing the 3D armor using the files from the Galactic Armory, Halo Infinite Master Chief Armor - 3D Print Files. The detail of the armor they created was very exact, and I liked the attention to detail in how the armor itself fit together (or so I thought).


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Scaling, Modeling and Editing. Upon figuring out how to scale the armor in Armorsmith and looking VERY carefully at how other people have printed or made their Master Chief armor I noticed some fitting issues. Especially around the thighs and belt piece. The Galactic Armory model was a bit too unrealistically accurate so I had to make a lot of cutting to make it so I could actually MOVE comfortably in the armor and like be able to sit down or bend my legs. I cut out the thigh pieces, sliced the belt piece to segments and I also added velcro slip attachments in each of the pieces of armor that needed to fit together like the shoulder piece.

Another problem I soon figured out after making all that modification is that the Galactic Armory models are HEAVY AF when printed. I mean I wanted the armor to be tough, but when I printed half of it I realized that just one shin piece was like 4lbs. Part of the problem was my fixation for toughness with a wall thickness of 7 and a infill % of 15%. Even lowering it down to 4 and an infill of 5% it was still waaay too heavy. So I purchased another set of 3D files from CGTrader, Halo Infinite Master Chief Full Body Armor STL Files | 3D Print Model. That armor was much thinner and had some slight improvements to SOME parts of the armor...specifically the shin and biceps. BONUS was I also got the 3D files for the undersuit, especially the neck portion which I printed in Flexible PLA.

So here, in the end, is how I broke down the armor to 3D print on my Bambu X1C. It was very tricky to slice the large models to use the least amount of supports and to still fit together nicely. I printed pieces at 4 wall thick, 5% gyroid infill, at .08 layer height. Printing at .08 layer height took ALOT longer to print, but it really reduced any layer lines to pretty much nothing.


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The chest piece weighs around 4kg. NOTE, the Galactic Armory 3D files for the chest piece front portion will not fit the back portion if you use them as is. Make sure you size them correctly which takes ALOT of work in Armorsmith or Blender. I think I got the right fit but it took a lot of time and tons of tinkering and cutting and melting. It was a super amount of hassle. Also, how the front and back piece clasps together sucks. The clasp system the armor has breaks immediately upon first use. I had to print out and attach a special latching system with magnets and velcro. It would have been SOO much better if I had built it into the original model...a warning to anyone else using these models to do that.

Also, I cut out the arm holes out alot. I don't know what I would have done if I HADN'T of done that. Even with enlarging the arm holes it is still pretty restrictive on my movement and my biceps kind of rest on the sides. It still looks good while a little akward. So I highly recommend cutting even more than what I did.


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The arms weight a combined 3kg. I used the biceps 3D files from the CGTrader files. I also cut the inside portion out so it would be more comfortable and reduce the grinding against the armor. The trickiest part was figuring out how to connect the bicep and the shoulder piece together. I inserted a bunch of loops into the shoulder piece and the bicep so I can connect them together and then connect them to the chest piece.


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The belt piece weighs 1.4kg. The best thing I did was slicing the belt into pieces. How is ANYONE supposed to put it on if it was all one piece. Like come on guys. I also got some clues from looking at how Sinisterpropz Master Chief armor looked. He did a great job modifying his Galactic Armory pieces too. I put velcro straps loops in each of the pieces so they can all connect together. I have them attached to a cool climbing harness which I will detail later.


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The legs weigh a combined 4.2kg. I am bummed I had to ditch the shin piece I already printed from Galactic Armory and switch to the CGTrader one but again, the new shin piece weighed like less than a kg and was easier to slip on. I kept the thigh piece, while heavy was very comfortable AND crazily enough while ginormous was not much heavier than the CGTrader model. I did do ALOT of modifications slicing out the inner thigh portion and hollowing it out a bit to make it lighter but it just looks so good.


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The boots weigh a combined 2.5kg. They are huge, but they do have to fit my giant size 13 steel toe boots. I cut the inside out so my boot sole can rest on the ground. I was scared of keeping the original sole of the model. Either the PLA+ would be crushed or I would slip. The added height advantage was not worth the risk. And I also noticed that all the other Master Chief cosplayers did this too. Probably for comfort as well. I also added straps to the models themselves so I can run velcro and elastic paracord to hold it altogether. The Halo Master Chief Infinite boots are the best looking out of all the versions BY FAR. That was my one critique of Halo 1-3, the boots looks dumb.


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The helmet I did NOT 3D print. I was going to but after watching all the DIY videos on just how painful building the visor is and how much $ it was going to cost to 3D print and wire up...I was like NOPE. I purchased a refurbished Jazzware Master Chief Helmet from Amazon for like $40. It fit my giant head perfectly so I got very lucky. I just had to take it apart and repaint it. It was a hassle but man the visor it comes with is AWESOME and the helmet itself is very comfortable.


TOTAL ARMOR WEIGHT: ~19kg (around 41lb) with all the straps, under armor, boots, fans, speaker and batteries.



3D Printing Time Breakdown. 3D printing almost non-stop took about 3 months. It could have been ALOT faster but I printed at a very fine layer height of .08-.1mm and I also slowed down some of the X1C printing speeds for the outerwall for extra fine quality. Not sure how much it helped. The pieces came out very smooth.



Item Breakdown. Here is the total breakdown of my item cost. It is of course higher than I expected the whole project to be. Alot of it was because I am still learning. And stuff I probably won't need to buy again and can reuse for other projects. I will mention that the Starbond glue is AMAZING and well worth the cost because it works great and you get SOOOOOOOO much of it. This is the BEST glue for PLA hands down and the most affordable. Next is working with Bondo SUCKS. I regret ever using the stuff. It is SUPER hazardous and the dust gets EVERYWHERE. If you can help it don't do it. Just don't. It is super toxic, smells horrible, and cleanup is like a toxic waste site after using it. I just gets everywhere. Next time I'll just use a heavier version of the Starbond glue to fill in seams.

Special Mention. I was going to build a strap under suit using the great instructions found here on this site, but after doing a lot of searching I found this, Muddy Magnum Pro Harness Black, UNITS, a climbing harness. It is the cheapest climbing harness used by hunters you can buy. BUT it works amazingly well for holding heavy armor on your body comfortably. It is amazing.

ITEMCOST
FILAMENT
2SUNLU 3D Printer Filament Bundle 10KG, PLA Plus Filament 1.75mm, Neatly Wound PLA+ Filament for Most 3D Printer, 2 Colors, 1kg Spool, Black$250.00
MISC
LANON PVC Chemical Gloves, Thick Rubber Work Gloves, Heavy-Duty, EN 374/388, Acid, Alkali and Oil, Non-Slip, XXL$14.13
3M Professional Multi-Purpose Respirator, Medium$39.56
Jorgensen 2-Piece Steel Bar Clamp Set, Light Duty F-Clamp, 8-inch & 12-inch$20.00
Hobby Knife Blades #18 Chisel Blades Wood Chisel Blade Precision Knife, 1/2 Inch Carbon Steel Heavy Duty Craft Knives for Chiseling, Shaving or Cutting Layers 100 Pieces$11.99
Amartisan 14-Piece Retractable Box Cutter, Utility Knifes for Boxes, Cartons, Cardboard Cutting, 18mm & 9mm Wide Blade Cutter, Very Suitable for Office and Home Use.$8.99
GLUE
Starbond 4 oz. Medium CA Glue (Premium Cyanoacrylate Super Glue) for Quick Glue-ups, Woodworking, Woodturning, Hobby Models$19.57
PAINT
Krylon K05547007 COLORmaxx Acrylic Clear Finish for Indoor/Outdoor Use, Flat Crystal Clear, 11 Ounce (Pack of 1)$18.00
Rust-Oleum 249128 Painter's Touch 2X Ultra Cover Spray Paint, 11 oz, Metallic Aluminum$6.19
Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty, Fills Pinholes, Scratches, Minor Dings & Hairline Cracks, 16 oz, 1 Tube
Rust-Oleum 257418 Painter's Touch 2X Ultra Cover Spray Paint, 12 oz, Satin Eden$28.00
Pure Graphite Powder Quart$18.99
Rust-Oleum 249127 Painter's Touch 2X Ultra Cover Spray Paint, 12 oz, Flat Black$6.19
Rust-Oleum 249418 Automotive Sandable Primer Spray Paint, 12 Ounce, Black, 12 Fl Oz$45.00
Makeup Sponge, Larbois 3-Pack Foundation Blender Beauty Sponge, Professional Make up Blending Sponge Dry & Wet Use for Powder Cream or Liquid (Red+Black+Purple)$4.34
Apple Barrel Gloss Acrylic Paint in Assorted Colors (2-Ounce), 20662 Black$2.00
Copco 255-0186 Non-Skid Pantry Cabinet Lazy Susan Turntable, 18-Inch, White/Gray - 2555-0186$10.00
800 Grit Sandpaper,Dry or Wet Sanding,9 x 3.6" for Wood Furniture Finishing,Metal Sanding and Automotive Polishing,Pack of 36$5.00
36Pcs Sandpaper,400 Grit Assorted Sanding Paper,Wet Dry Waterproof Sand Paper for Wood Furniture Finishing,Automotive Polishing,9x3.6 Inches$5.00
45PCS Sandpaper,Atosun Premium Wet Dry Waterproof Sand Paper, 120 to 5000 Assorted Grit Sanding Paper for Wood Furniture Finishing, Metal Sanding and$10.00
Rit Dye 88150 All Purpose Liquid Dye, Black, 8 Fl Oz$3.67
FROGTAPE 1358464 Multi-Surface Painter's Tape with PAINTBLOCK, Medium Adhesion, 1.88" Wide x 60 Yards Long, Green$10.36
ARMOR & UNDERARMOR
HALO Master Chief Deluxe Helmet with Stand - LED Lights on Each Side - Battle Damaged Paint - One Size Fits Most - Build Your Halo Universe, Green$46.00
NoCry Supportive Sports and Gardening Knee Pads for Women and Men; Unique Adjustable Straps; Gardening and Cleaning; Durable Gardeners Knee Pads; Volleyball Knee Pads for Men$18.99
Zune Lotoo Tactical Gloves TPR Protective Airsoft Gloves Touchscreen Military Gear Shooting Gloves for Men$19.99
Bodyprox Elbow Protection Pads 1 Pair (Medium), Elbow Guard Sleeve$16.00
Muddy Magnum Pro Harness Black, UNITS$31.18
Height Increase Adjustable Elevator Shoe Lift Insoles for Men - 1 or 1.5 Inch Taller Heightening Liftkits - Size Large$10.00
Cienfy 3D Hip Protection Eva Butt Pads Protective Padded Shorts Crash Pad Impact Gear for Skiing Skating Snowboarding Skateboarding (Large)$24.23
ELECTRONICS
Bietrun Voice Amplifier with Microphone Headset, 20W Rechargeable Mini Portable Voice Amplifier for Teachers, 6H Working Time, Bluetooth, AUX, TF Card Input, for Teaching, Coach, Classroom, Instructor$27.19
Noctua NF-A4x10 5V PWM, Premium Quiet Fan with USB Power Adaptor Cable, 4-Pin, 5V Version (40x10mm, Brown)$16.27
AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet Dual 80mm USB Fan, UL-Certified for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling$15.99
STRAPS & MAGNETS
Black Elastic Bands for Wigs, 1 Inch 12 Yard High Elasticity Knit Spool Sewing Band for Waistbands Pants Clothes and Crafts DIY, Airisoer$4.34
1 inch Buckle Strap Set with 10 Yards Nylon Webbing, 8 Pcs Metal D Rings, 8 Pcs Quick Side Release Plastic Buckles, 16 Pcs Tri-glide Slide Clip for DIY Luggage Strap, Backpack Replacement Repairing$10.87
Universal Replacement Helmet Padding Kits Motorcycle Outdoor ACH Football Batting Helmet Foam Pads Padding Set Helmet Accessories Mats for Fast Mich ACH USMC PASGT Helmet Padding Kits$15.91
EVA Foam Cosplay - 8mm (1mm to 10mm) - Black or White - 14" x 39" Sheet - Ultra High Density 85 kg/m3 - by The Foamory$22.99
Matenf Double-Sided Hook and Loop Straps, Self-Gripping, 1 Inch Wide, Cut to Length, Heavy Duty, Quick Wrap Cable Straps, Hook & Loop Roll for Bundling Fastening Storage and Organization, 1'' x 16'$9.78
Magnetpro Neodymium Rectangular Magnets 44 lbs Force 40 x 13.5 x 5 mm with Countersunk Hole and Capsule, Strong Household and Industrial Rare Earth Magnet with Mounting Screws Pack of 8$16.31
TRYMAG Small Strong Magnets, Rare Earth Magnets, 3 Size 30pcs, Small Neodymium Magnets Black Fridge Magnets for Whiteboard, Billboard, Hobbies, Office, Round Button Magnets$7.61
ROUGH TOTAL$850.63



Sanding, Spray Painting and Weathering. I actually enjoyed a little bit of the sanding part...except using Bondo and the taking FOREVER. When I finally realized I didn't need to see myself in the reflection of the PLA...what was I thinking...it went a lot quicker. The spray painting part was also scary at first and then became easier and easier when I realized how smooth spray paint really goes on...especially if you take it super slow.

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I sanded everything by hand. I didn't have to do much sanding, mainly the seams where the pieces had to be glued together. If I didn't have to do those dumb seams I barely would have had to sand. Did I mention how much I hated using Bondo.
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The Weathering part was the most relaxing and fun part of the whole sanding and coloring part. I could do it inside my home without a burly respirator on with fans blasting since I was just working with watered down black acrylic and silver pens.
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And seeing the final result from that bright green to the more battle worn look was super rewarding.

Weapons, weapons and more weapons. So I am including this into the walkthrough as well because even though Master Chief is himself a weapon, he has to have cool weapons.

MA40 Rifle
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Taking inspiration from the 405th I purchased the M40a Nerf gun and and working on respraying it. So many tutorials on how to paint this thing and I watched them all. I went with the easiest color scheme. I just need to add some weathering and graphic to it for that extra touch and that will be done. I created a custom shortened ammo clip for anyone here to download, Halo MA40 Nerf Ammo Clip - Flush by zeckkoa. It fits nicely for that authentic look instead of the Nerf guns version which sticks out way too much.

W/AV M6 G/GNR "Spartan Laser"
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And you can't have Master Chief without the Spartan Laser. I am also working on printing and painting my Halo 5 Spartan Laser found on Thingiverse by misterchiefcostuming. Amazing free model. I made some adjustments to make it stronger and cut it up to fit my printer which you can find here, Spartan Laser - Halo 5 - Remix for the X1C by zeckkoa BONUS is I included the 405th emblem engraved into the Spartan Laser. I was worried about it being too small when I was printing it out. Boy was I wrong when I put it all together. It is taller than my 7 year old son. My only problem is the Spartan Laser weighs like 3.4kg so carrying it around for too long is going to be tough.

UNSC Magnum
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And because I have pretty large hands especially while wearing the suit I needed the largest Halo pistol I could find that closely resembled my favorite pistol from Halo 1. Again another free and excellent model from misterchiefcostuming from Thingiverse. Still working on graphite coasting and final touchups but very happy how it looks. Of course it would have been cool if the trigger worked but man, those models are waaaaaay more complicated than I wanted to attempt in this run anyway. I still need to figure something out on attaching all these weapons to myself. I see some people use burly magnets. Not sure which route I will take.


Seattle 2023 PAX. I am still working on the armor and I am probably 95% of the way there. I still need to do a bit more weathering and then I need to varnish the crap out of everything to hopefully protect a little from the battle damage of just wearing the armor. Then I need to install all the straps, velcro, buckles, and magnets. I should be done by this weekend. I will be attending the Seattle 2023 Seattle PAX and maybe hopefully the Halo World Championship. So please, please, please, if any of you see me, don't hesitate to pester me with every question you can imagine, because I know I'll have as many for you too.


MORE PHOTOS AND UPDATES COMING SOON!
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Finally got the armor set on for the first time. I wanted the ability to put on the armor myself pretty fast without help. Figured out the right order of putting it on. The hardest piece is the damn wrist guards. I made the elastic bands too tight. I also need to work on the chest piece again. It isn't as securely fastened as I would like. BUT for as heavy as the armor is, it at least doesnt feel it is that heavy at all. The climbing harness does a great job distributing the weight and the padding I added to the chest piece makes it comfortable. I'll continue to tweak it and get that belt fastened a bit tighter. I am just glad everything fits so nicely together...especially the biceps and shoulder pieces.

I'll provide a full breakdown on each piece and how I have it all configured when I am done.
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Here it is laid out in the order I put it on. It really helps that the biceps and shoulder pads are already connected so I can just slide my arms in. That was perhaps the hardest part to connect until I figured out I could just do that. You can also glimpse at my cooling system as well in the suite. The neckpiece I am still unsure about how to connect it and put it on easily. I am going to have to reprint it so I'll add some more synching sections to it.
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Really nice write-up. The process, your thinking along the way without it becoming rambling. It been an enjoyable read. Don't see many folks that keep that level of tracking down to weight of each part and material used per part.
 
Really nice write-up. The process, your thinking along the way without it becoming rambling. It been an enjoyable read. Don't see many folks that keep that level of tracking down to weight of each part and material used per part.
Thanks! I am just about to do a breakdown of how I have strapped and padded each piece. And maybe I'll do a time lapse video of putting on the armor. Still working out the little snags and hitchs but I really want to make it so I can put on the armor by myself.

And the weighing of each piece was easy in the Bambu slicer software. I just had it slice without supports to give me the full estimate of each section. But people don't think much about weight. I am envious of the foam builds and how lightweight their armor.
 
I was scared of keeping the original sole of the model. Either the PLA+ would be crushed or I would slip. The added height advantage was not worth the risk.
I used horse mat from a local hardware store and cut out my soles from that, then sealed my whole shoe inside the costume shoe with large amounts of shoe goo. It works very well, is super resilient, and (I think) looks better.

Otherwise this is an epic build and I'm stoked at how good it looks. Great job!
 
I used horse mat from a local hardware store and cut out my soles from that, then sealed my whole shoe inside the costume shoe with large amounts of shoe goo. It works very well, is super resilient, and (I think) looks better.

Otherwise this is an epic build and I'm stoked at how good it looks. Great job!
Oh man that actually sounds pretty darn good! I might just have to that.
 
Oh man that actually sounds pretty darn good! I might just have to that.
In the long run I basically stole master_colt_117's method, so I will steal his words to me to tell you.

"As far as the boots, I built out the frame of the boot leaving where the sole goes empty. Then the sole template from the files, I traced to 1/2 thick rubber horse stall mat that has lined tread on it. I carefully cut out with a heavy duty knife and then cleaned up the edges with my dremel. Then glued little pieces of foam inside my boot to hold the sole in place about half way inside to the frame with about a 1/4 of the rubber sole exposed on the test fit. I then took the sole out and coated the edges with shoe goo and set it in place on those supports in the boot frame I glued in. Let that cure for a couple of hours then built up another bead of smooth shoe goo on that exposed 1/4" of sole. Let that cure over night with the boot upside down. The next day I built up a heavy strong bead of shoe goo inside the boot between the sole and the frame of the boot using gravity to flow the goo where I wanted it to built up a strong bond. I then join the boot to the host shoe with of course a heavy application of shoe goo between the rubber boot sole and the shoe soles. I used a tread safe shoe from Walmart that was decent price and the shoe sole had a lot of patterns for the goo to bond too. Took about a week per boot to do this with cure times but the result was a good strong boot I'd wear outside with no problem."

His work is exquisite and I highly recommend checking it out.
 
PAX West was fun! But Boy did I have problems with the damn chest plate popping off constantly. I am so frustrated nothing has worked so far. I think I am going to have to go back to the drawing board. Maybe a metal hook system.
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I removed the Final Fantasy banner up at the top.
 
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First off, absolutely beautiful thread. You've done a fantastic job documenting the entire build!
Secondly, what's wrong with the chest? Are the magnets not strong enough?
 
First off, absolutely beautiful thread. You've done a fantastic job documenting the entire build!
Secondly, what's wrong with the chest? Are the magnets not strong enough?
Thank you for your kind words!

I think it was my fault. I had the magnet on the smallest edge of the connecting piece and was relying mainly on 15lb velcro. I am 3D modeling a new magnet mounting system for underneath the torso so I can firmly install 2x2 44lb magnets on each side for a solid connection. I don't want my chest plate popping off again.
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I think I making the whole thing overly complicated. But I also think my damn chest plate is heavier than most. The front part weighs 3lb 3oz.

But this is my last hitch in my armor to fix so not too bad.
 
I think the new system will definitely help, the 60lb magnets I used on mine gave a very satisfying clunk when attached and didn't pop off even when I took a big hop. The elastic retention strap also definitely helped, always good to have a backup system so it doesn't take a tumble.
 
Oh I can't wait for a loud clunk sound when I close it up. And very sound advice for a backup system. I am going to add a backup Bungie system just in case.

I am just happy the armor is comfortable overall considering how heavy it is.
 
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BOOTS
Breaking down how the final product is put together. I love the model this armor has for the boots. Like I said earlier, I removed the sole from the model when printing. I put alot of padding around the boots so they fit snugly in the 3D printed armor boots. I then hot glued some parts and attached straps to keep it all together. I added more padding between each of the pieces so it wouldnt make any clatter noise. I try very hard to keep my armor as quiet as possible. You can also see I added some additional foam padding on the top part of the boot so that my shin armor doesn't rub directly against the boot part.

The boots themselves with the sole inserts in my boots probably add 3-4 or more inches to my overall height. They are VERY comfortable luckily and the only problem I have is when walking up and down stairs since they make my boots so big. Additionally, I don't tie my boots. They fit so snugly with the inserts that I don't need to.

TIP: to anyone else building your boots this way...may sure the back hill of the armored boot is alot higher than your shoe. That way it won't hit awkwardly when you are walking.
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LEGS
I put a lot of work into figuring out how to make the shin and calf part of the armor fit as snugly as I could against me while still enabling me to sit.

The calf part was actually the easiest part to figure out. I inserted into the 3D model some strap holes so I could attached clip-on straps to hold up the calf armor to my body. I cut out the original 3D model for the interior thigh part so I could replace them with high density foam attached with hot glue so I could have some additional flexibility. I think it came out looking pretty nicely.

The shin parts were a lot more difficult. I tried attaching them to the calf armor with straps that I had on them...but that was awkward...especially when sitting or bending my leg. My aha moment was when I hot glued the strap on knee pads directly to the shins. It now holds them snugly to my leg. My next hurdle was getting the back part of the shin to attach to the front part so I could actually get my damn foot through. I remodeled the 3D shins to include a guide slot system to help clamp them together. I also inserted elastic straps so they snap into place. It isn't perfect. They can sometimes pop out a bit when I move around or bend down. But it is kinda easy to fix.

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Belt & Spine
You ABSOLUTELY have to cut this belt piece into 4 parts if you want any comfort at all. I noticed this small detail on all the 3D cosplay armor that focused on flexibility and comfort. I had to do a lot of modifying of the original 3D model to make this work. I also included belt loops on each part. I then attached them to the climbing harness via elastic straps. It is soooo easy to put on. I can sit with no problem. Going to the bathroom is a synch. The only part I had any difficulty with was the codpiece. That piece goes on last after I snap the belt together. So I modeled a special slip on part so it slips securely over the belt clip. Every fits together so nicely. I then attached the spine piece climbing harness which worked perfectly. I am just trying to now figure out how to hide the two front straps that appear over my abdomen. Still not sure what I am going to do there but they almost disappear when I have the armor on.

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Bravo my good man, I really enjoyed reading this thread. love the way your armor came out. i think there are some thing i might redo on my armor. i tryed using the galactic armory files but the calfs just dont work for me i have big calfs. but the chest i know what you mean by they don't match up right.
but a great writing on your build and an even better job on the armor.
 

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