Rabbit's build

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The trick is to go over the folding lines with the x-acto knife, use a liner to draw straight lines, just hold it down very very softly, so you don't cut it off. (using thicker paper would be an asset) As a noob you can use a pencil, but with the knife it's much cleaner.

faltlinien.JPG


Clean folds are guaranteed


Thanks, I scaled it with 278mm, but I have the feeling it may be too small. I mean it's just the right size, if I was able to get my head through :/, maybe I have to cut off the back part and I'll somehow be able to wear it.



Haha, that happend to me too, nevermind. I like the idea of writing your name on the chest. :D I saved a lot pics here on the forum for inspiring reasons. With a name on the piece you could easily find the corresponding thread just in case you need more information. ;)

wouldn't cutting into the paper make it easier to rip when you go to fold it? I'll try it though, I need some new method. :)
 
wouldn't cutting into the paper make it easier to rip when you go to fold it? I'll try it though, I need some new method. :)
Of course it would, but it makes folding so much easier, it's a real pleasure to fold the flaps if they're already "prepared" :p of course you have to be careful, don't cut in too deep. thick paper is highly recommended.
don't use a new sharp blade, use an old one that's already a little blunt, by doing so the risk off cutting/ripping some flaps off is minimized.
 
Of course it would, but it makes folding so much easier, it's a real pleasure to fold the flaps if they're already "prepared" :p of course you have to be careful, don't cut in too deep. thick paper is highly recommended.
don't use a new sharp blade, use an old one that's already a little blunt, by doing so the risk off cutting/ripping some flaps off is minimized.

Yeah, I lost my X-acto knife so now I'm using a blunt carpet knife... it should work. But yeah I'll give it a try, anything works better than using your finger nails... thankfully I have extra thick card-stock which works perfect. Thanks for the tip, it helped allot! :)
 
great pep work man!!! you sound a lot like me, lol, I'd rather pep a piece three or four times to get it right and how I want it than spend a lot of extra time cleaning it up at the end, remeber the only one you have to make happy is yourself. keep up the good work.
 
FINALLY!!! Someone who realizes that you don't need to draw over the lines with a pen! Great work so far Rabbit!
Like I said earlier in my thread, I'm not a fan of scoring the lines with a knife, I didn't have any problems with cutting through, but it was a lot more difficult to get long straight valley folds with the knife than it is with pens. Mountain folds worked great with the knife though.
I think he means what size is the chest you did.
But I have the chest size printed right on the front of the chest...
 
Like I said earlier in my thread, I'm not a fan of scoring the lines with a knife, I didn't have any problems with cutting through, but it was a lot more difficult to get long straight valley folds with the knife than it is with pens. Mountain folds worked great with the knife though.

When I score my folds, I use a different knife than the one I cut with. My scoring knife has a blade that has been dulled a bit due to cutting. The dulled blade is great for getting through the first few layers of paper fiber without cutting all the way through.
 
FINALLY!!! Someone who realizes that you don't need to draw over the lines with a pen!
When I score my folds, I use a different knife than the one I cut with. My scoring knife has a blade that has been dulled a bit due to cutting. The dulled blade is great for getting through the first few layers of paper fiber without cutting all the way through.
Thx, I made the same experience. It took me a long time to realize you can get much better folds by scoring the lines softly with a knife, before I got enlightened I used a pen too. I admit the valley folds don't work that nice as mountain folds do. They may work a little better when scoring with a pen, but as I don't want to constantly switch between knife and pen I do everything with the knife.
Sorry for kinda hijacking your thread with the folding issue. Just wanted to help. :)
 
Thx, I made the same experience. It took me a long time to realize you can get much better folds by scoring the lines softly with a knife, before I got enlightened I used a pen too. I admit the valley folds don't work that nice as mountain folds do. They may work a little better when scoring with a pen, but as I don't want to constantly switch between knife and pen I do everything with the knife.
Sorry for kinda hijacking your thread with the folding issue. Just wanted to help. :)

When you score a vally fold, score the paper on the opposide side of the printing. That way, you have the same sharpness you have with a mountain fold (I just realized that Rabbit made a comment about mountain folds looking better than valley folds too). You will need a steel ruler or something similar for the longer valley folds in order to keep the lines straight.
 
Same thing I do with my pep models, just not as clean and I score the folds on the printed side. Might try your method carpathia.

Off topic.

GREAT JOB ON THE MRK 6 SO FAR!!! (does that make up for it? lol)

Seth
 
When you score a vally fold, score the paper on the opposide side of the printing. That way, you have the same sharpness you have with a mountain fold (I just realized that Rabbit made a comment about mountain folds looking better than valley folds too). You will need a steel ruler or something similar for the longer valley folds in order to keep the lines straight.
But if I turn around the paper I can't see the printing anymore ^^
 
But if I turn around the paper I can't see the printing anymore ^^

You can still see the corners where the valley lines extend to. If the valley lines end on a straight end (no definite corner), then make a small knick at each end so you can see where they are from the back.

Edit: I may have to put a little tutorial out for my pepping method. I don't want to take up any more of Rabbit's build thread on this unless he has specific questions about it. Sorry about that Rabbit.
 
You can still see the corners where the valley lines extend to. If the valley lines end on a straight end (no definite corner), then make a small knick at each end so you can see where they are from the back.

Edit: I may have to put a little tutorial out for my pepping method. I don't want to take up any more of Rabbit's build thread on this unless he has specific questions about it. Sorry about that Rabbit.

Ahhh, I see, that's a clever method, thanks for the hint.
 
Of course it would, but it makes folding so much easier, it's a real pleasure to fold the flaps if they're already "prepared" :p of course you have to be careful, don't cut in too deep. thick paper is highly recommended.
don't use a new sharp blade, use an old one that's already a little blunt, by doing so the risk off cutting/ripping some flaps off is minimized.
Hey I tried your folding method out, and it worked AWESOME! Thanks so much Rainbow.
 
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