O.K. I have the materials and am going to try to give some step-by-step instructions on how I am making my under-suit. This will be in two-sections, since I wasn't able to finish it in one setting. Part two will come hopefully on Monday.
I have McCalls pattern 7340, 4 yards of black 4-way stretch fabric, 2 yards of gray 4- way stretch fabric, and 1 yard of mesh fabric.
I opened the pattern, removed the instructions, and cut out the patterns' rough shapes. You'll need about a billion and a half pins, I learned, and use them to pin the patterns to your fabric after your fabric has been folded in half, since this gives you two patterns for one cut. It's important to read the text on the patterns and the instructions, since they aren't always straight-forward, and some will need to be placed on a fold.
Most patterns should have different lines for different sizes, so be mindful where you cut.
It is terribly frustrating, but when you're done you'll have a bunch of patterns lying flat on the table.
One of the points that are important are the registration marks in the the patterns. They present themselves as triangles and need to be cut out as written. Double points where indicated, single where indicated, you'll thank me later.
When you have finally cut out all of the patterns and made sure you have the registration marks, it's time to put them together using pins. The "outside" face of the fabric, the part people will see, should be face down. When you sew two parts together, lie them next to each other sew-edges touching and lift the edges so the outside faces of each are touching. Then insert your pins to keep the edges aligned.
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That's not a great picture, but the fabric is held together by using pins, which allows you to fix the alignment as needed before sewing. Once you have it the way you want it it's finally time to start sewing!
When you sew it's important to:
1) have enough of the right color thread and know how to thread your machine, and
2) make sure your fabric is flat and clear underneath, in order to ensure you sew only through those layers you intend to.
My machine has a handy measuring grid to tell me where to hold the edge of the fabric to, I'm sure most have some indicators of similar purpose. You want to make sure to give yourself roughly 5/8 inch space from the edge of the fabric to allow for the seam.
Go as slow as you need to make sure the fabric doesn't wander on you, because it will.
The pattern I'm using doesn't have pockets. And from my limited experience and advice of others in the 405th, I decided to add some.
I measured the width of my phone, added roughly 3/4-1 inch for the width, and doubled the length of my phone for the depth. I then placed the pattern on a fold and cut it out. The opening of this pocket is roughly the width of the pocket, but cut in the top side, then the whole piece was inserted in the pattern side under my torso armor where it won't be seen, but will still be accessible.
(Same picture as above, because I'm proud of it. )
Follow the instructions in your pattern. If for some reason there are none, or you're making your own and aren't sure what to do, it's easiest to start from the center out, and work on the inside.
Once you have all the sewing done, trim all the seams about 1/4 inch from the seam, turn it right side out, and your seams will look great!
I forgot to take pictures of that part but I'll be sure to snag a couple when I get the chance.
Next update: adding details and explaining why I decided to go two-toned! Stay tuned!