thinking about starting over


Fallen

Active Member
Member DIN
S922
i have a low funding for the armor and no airbrush kit and acrylic paint is cheep and know of any brands i should use and NEVER EVER use for painting

Just threw that out there so it's not forgotten. Spray paint for smoother finish, or brush on acrylics or sample house interior paint (sample sizes typically run ~ US$4.00 for 8oz, at least around where I am). Brushing leaves brush marks, but look at SKS who brushes much (if not all) of his stuff and tell me it doesn't still look amazing.

Here's a chart I keep around to reference for paint types. Like Turbo said brands generally aren't an issue, but if you're concerned about it I guess you could pick a brand and paint type and stick within that. For spray paints I tend towards Rustoleum or Krylon.
PaintMatrix.png
 

Dirtdives2424

Division Scheduler and Keeper of Con Lists
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Community Staff
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S2424
Home Depot carries several "Armored" gloves that are easily convertible to a HALO suit. Not 100% game accurate but they work in a pinch.
 

TurboCharizard

Division PR, RXO and BCO
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405th Regiment Officer
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S068
thank u all for the tips but what about filling in the gaps between parts
It seems like a look through some tutorials may help you out a lot.
 

Mechace13

New Member
It seems like a look through some tutorials may help you out a lot.
where would the part about filling gaps be
 

Mechace13

New Member
People like barge contact cement, I’ve only use lepage brand. most heavy duty contact cements will do fine.
Utility knives for big cuts, exacto knives for small precise ones. Rotary tools are also really handy if you can get one for cleaning up jagged cuts. youll either need to stock up on blades or use a sharpener to prolong the life of one. 400g Sandpaper will work to sharpen blades as well.
i Use plasti dip to seal my foam, it stays fairly flexible that way. You can use mod podge or latex as well. depends on preferences and what finish you want.
black is My fav base color, grey works too.
do i need to ware anything when i use the cement
 

Mechace13

New Member
People like barge contact cement, I’ve only use lepage brand. most heavy duty contact cements will do fine.
Utility knives for big cuts, exacto knives for small precise ones. Rotary tools are also really handy if you can get one for cleaning up jagged cuts. youll either need to stock up on blades or use a sharpener to prolong the life of one. 400g Sandpaper will work to sharpen blades as well.
i Use plasti dip to seal my foam, it stays fairly flexible that way. You can use mod podge or latex as well. depends on preferences and what finish you want.
black is My fav base color, grey works too.
spray can or paint can
 

Electraknite

Active Member
do i need to ware anything when i use the cement
unless you're working outside you'll need a respirator. you should use it whenever you glue, spraypaint, and sand your project. if you ever get into bondo or resin you'll need it for that too. basically if it smells wear a respirator. I use P100 filters in mine.

I use spray cans, Im not sure plastidip comes in a paint can. you can use whatever you're more confident in though. while spraying just make sure you dont linger in one place to cause pooling and drips.
 

PlanetAlexander

Well-Known Member
is there a brand of cement and bando that doesn't need me to ware a reparater
Probably not, though if there was something they wouldn't be very effective. I believe that with contact cement, it's actually the solvents that have the very strong smell, and all contact cement needs solvents to keep it runny.
 

Dirtdives2424

Division Scheduler and Keeper of Con Lists
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S2424
i watched a video on youtube and the guy used air dry modeling clay what about that way
Modeling clay is the poor mans filler.....it will fill the gap but it has no true adhesion properties....once it dried, most probably was either coated or painted over to keep it in place.....if the gap is large, I would use something else.....I've used hot glue as a gap filler to some success, but only small gaps.....for larger ones, I try to splice in a piece of foam with contact cement....then the hot glue to fill any small holes...... Mechace13, the best thing to do really, is to start working a small piece.....cod, knee, butt plate.....something that can be done in a short time frame....build up some experience...then you can see what is what and how it actually pieces together......the answers will become more relevant and understandable if you actually build the piece.....
 

TurboCharizard

Division PR, RXO and BCO
Division Staff
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
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S068
Modeling clay is the poor mans filler.....it will fill the gap but it has no true adhesion properties....once it dried, most probably was either coated or painted over to keep it in place.....if the gap is large, I would use something else.....I've used hot glue as a gap filler to some success, but only small gaps.....for larger ones, I try to splice in a piece of foam with contact cement....then the hot glue to fill any small holes...... Mechace13, the best thing to do really, is to start working a small piece.....cod, knee, butt plate.....something that can be done in a short time frame....build up some experience...then you can see what is what and how it actually pieces together......the answers will become more relevant and understandable if you actually build the piece.....
Read the thing, try the thing, understand the thing. Nice.
 

PlanetAlexander

Well-Known Member
i watched a video on youtube and the guy used air dry modeling clay what about that way
Have a look at something called "foam clay". It's sold in tubs and is especially designed for cosplay/prop making. To apply, you wet your foam with water then put the foam clay over it, sculpting it like actual clay. After 24+ hours it'll dry out and you can sand it. It's good for sculpting details or filling unavoidably large seams. Here's an example of foam clay from Lumin's Workshop, although there are other companies that make it:
 

Dirtdives2424

Division Scheduler and Keeper of Con Lists
Division Staff
Community Staff
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S2424
I use DAP Weldwood contact cement to attach foam pieces. Has a quick dry time and strong bond on contact. Once all pieces are together, I hit the whole thing with a heat gun to seal the exterior, then I use a mixture of 50/50. 50% wood glue and 50% water. 2-3 layers of that sprayed or painted on thinly will give paint a good base to adhere to. Remember no method or material is better than any other. It’s you suit. You are going to build it the way you want and how you want it and with whatever material you choose. If you go with the fiberglass.... giving you tips and material ideas for foamsmithing would be pointless. So let’s prioritize:
First things first......have you chosen the suit you want to build?
 

Mechace13

New Member
I use DAP Weldwood contact cement to attach foam pieces. Has a quick dry time and strong bond on contact. Once all pieces are together, I hit the whole thing with a heat gun to seal the exterior, then I use a mixture of 50/50. 50% wood glue and 50% water. 2-3 layers of that sprayed or painted on thinly will give paint a good base to adhere to. Remember no method or material is better than any other. It’s you suit. You are going to build it the way you want and how you want it and with whatever material you choose. If you go with the fiberglass.... giving you tips and material ideas for foamsmithing would be pointless. So let’s prioritize:
First things first......have you chosen the suit you want to build?
is DAP able to be used after it is dry will i be able to use a heat gun to curve the parts
odst armor and wood glue brands you would recommend
 

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