TurboCharizard's Halo Reach CQB Build Log

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Also, if you look closely, the other 3 girl's palms are face up.....but that girl has hers face down....actually, slightly angled....as if trying to block out an unsavory sight and averting her eyes a bit........ hummmmmmm .......?


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Seriously though with your pose abilities we really could put a calendar together.
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Guilty as charged.

That photo seems familiar.... I think I have seen one with the group " Dabbing"

Yeah, more than half of that group are certified Memelords. Some are even card carrying.

But why does the girl on the left look so confused.......and a bit alarmed?

Probably something to do with the whole nonsensical situation.

I noticed that, too...




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Because there's a lot wrapping up right now I have pick of the litter for which thing to post about. Today I was feeling like being a good guy to the 405th to offset playing hardball with some other folks. Anyway long story short, post about a knife and free files because I like you all so much.

I love Halo Reach for it being in that weird period of time where reference images for the game are all super low resolution or DEAR GOD ALL THE PIXELS, it's like nobody could agree on some sort of common ground to use for image upload size. The combat knife was no exception and the sheath was even more all over the place.

With a little bit of time spent in Fusion 360 and a bit of time in Nifegun I figured out how to make a knife that'd work in the real world and would be strong enough to not instantly snap first time it was pulled. Hooray brittle 3D printed materials! I could have gone with Sintra, Worbla or foam but those would have been either too flimsy or too thick when supported, plus this way I can share things with you and possibly mould and cast copies later for folks without access to 3D printers.

[Halo Reach Combat Knife Files]
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For cleanliness and ease of surface prep the blade is split into two slim halves to be laid flat on a printbed and the handle can be printed in an upright position.to further make your life easier I recommend a 0.06mm layer height for the blade to reduce the jagged edges from layers on the honed surface. For my copy I used eSun PLA+ as usual but this time got to play around with my Tevo Tornado. Assembly is easy, glue the two blade halves together and press fit the blade peg into the handle slot to make sure there's good fit and remove any excess material if your printer is having issues with dimensional accuracy before final glue up. Check to make sure everything is correct as pictured below after final assembly.
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To save a bit of effort on sanding I used my new found favourite material, XTC-3D, after a quick pass with the mouse sander through 80 and 220 grit. XTC-3D is a self leveling epoxy resin and it's great for getting into layer lines that are difficult to sand. The trick to it is that it loves to flow downhill so you have to babysit it with a brush and remove any drips forming or pooling in recessed detail. There's also the fun fact that it produces a high exothermic reaction as it cures and the larger the volume the quicker the reaction so a mixing cup left unattended may start smoking which is cool.

After the resin cured it was back to sanding and surface prep! The image below is some of the things I've been sanding over the last little bit and has been giving me better results than the gym. Eagle eyed viewers will notice some projects that I've yet to post about but have drafts in the hopper for.

Having a knife is great but I also wanted to have a sheath with a bit of personal flair to it. Because I don't always pre-make my patterns in CAD I used a piece of scrap paper to trace the outline of the finished knife and added an allowance outside the blade to give room for the foam to be contact cemented. Because the sheath is going to be stretched and strained by drawing and sheathing the knife it's important to use contact cement which maintains flexibility. Using 6mm EVA and 2mm EVA for the raised details I started bashing together the sheath, doing this in actual leather at some point would definitely be a fun project. I also prepared a crest to attach to the "leather" portion of the sheath. Four odds and ends bin screws were punched through the edges after drilling pilot holes and then super glued into place permanently.
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Painting always is my favourite step and I still have a bit of weathering to go on these pieces but they're at a good point to share right now so why the heck not! Paints used are as follows.
Foam Primer - Rustoleum FlexiDip Black
Primer Black - P3 Black Primer
Gunmetal Base - Rustoleum Dark Steel
Gunmetal Highlight - P3 Cold Steel
Blade - Tremclad Gloss Aluminum
White - Whatever GW called it ~10 years ago


Did I mention I'm a fan of CHAPPiE and I've always yelled this when pulling off assassinations.

Now I can work as a proper CQB and go diving in with shotgun roaring and when all else fails give them some tickles.

If folks want a CAD pattern for the sheath I can do one up in a bit, you just need to ask nicely! Also, TacPad or Armour Ability post next?


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Sleepy tired update but hey, fun things are fun.


Over the past three days amidst finishing off commission pieces for a convention this weekend I took the dive and got into making the bodysuit. Reach under suits have a lot of parts. Like a lot. Poor baby tailor me was not anticipating how involved this would be but it's pretty much done.

Huge shout out to electricknite for her awesome build thread which was inspiration for this.

Another Bravo Zulu to the new Brother 1034D Serger that I picked up to make this possible. The old sewing machine would definitely handle the vinyl detailing and then just cry at all the stretch knits.

Apologies in advance to anyone that actually knows how to sew, I kind of just make it up as I go along and am learning from kindly older Australian ladies that make YouTube tutorials. I'm making a fair number of mistakes and stuff isn't super pretty but this is practice and I'm definitely learning a lot and getting much quicker as I work.

For the numerous detail panels a mix of dark gray and black marine vinyl were used. These panels included the shoulder caps, elbow pads, kidney pads, under rib pad, spine pad, weird pocket things and neck seal.
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For the venting a mix of a stretch sports jersey fabric was used with 1/2" black marine vinyl bands sewn across. These were for the elbows and vents on the back of the thigh.
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With all the detail panels pieced together it was time to attach them into the main suit. For the majority of the panels a four way stretch was used in case I get super fat at some point. The side vents were the same sports jersey fabric in two layers underneath a laundry hamper mesh to give it a more interesting texture. Wonder clips are awesome, I highly recommend getting your hands on a bunch. Maybe not as many as are in our house but hey, I can clip like everything to everything. Also, if your sewing machine has a free arm, make sure your clips fit through the gap before clipping anything.
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I also found that they made a drink just for me.

The zipper is installed and all that's left is to attach the legs. I didn't want to give you a full body shot either because I wasn't wearing my new dance belt while sewing. A dance belt is to make sure I only show up on one government list this weekend for creating a rather realistic looking shotgun. Straps are attached and openings for cable runs are in place so that power can be fed to the arms and legs LEDs from the core power supply, sleep is the only thing left to do really.
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Sha-sha! Goodnight y'all.
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