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Okay, so the visor came in and it turns out it was really small.
ODST Helmet 01.jpg


As you can see, I managed to put on one layer of wood-glue on before posting this.

Helmet: Completed.

Modifications: The cheek holes on the side will have this screen mesh so fresh air can come in the helmet. I will also cut the little holes in the sides of the head and put mesh on that as well so when someone talks to me, I will hear them.

Problems: The visor that I got was really small and didn't work, I might have to make one, But I'm doing my best to avoid that option. And as they stated, no refunds.
ODST Helmet 02.jpg
 
Okay so my helmets log in its Pep. file from cyberdemon35 was:

- Height: 318mm (12.5197in)

- Width: 269mm (10.5906in)

- Depth: 333mm (13.1102in)

I added a few more mm for more space, now I see that was an error on my part. the helmet looked a bit too big, but I got used to it. So long as I added some sponges to fill the spaces. and maybe just add either a 1/4 or just a 1/2 of added freespace instead of a full inch.
 
Ah, StayFrosty there's actually a better technique for hardening foam.

you brush multiple coats of PVA glue (Elmer's school glue), then brush on (multiple coats) of smooth-on casting resin. It's a lot easier, cleaner, and produces a sandable, bondo-able finish.

perfect for this sort of thing.

Well, good luck on your build ACbrotherhood. looking great! I see you've got talent!

I have a few questions: Is this resin like the glue we're you could pour and brush? how would it react to the wood glue? And would this, in turn, make the foam even harder and sturdier?
 
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well, you can either pour it, or you can mix the resin onto a plate, and brush the resin onto the part (which is what I do, It helps to make sure there isn't too much resin on the part, and blotting the details.)
also, you'll need to lightly sand the wood glue for best result (if you're going the resin route, that is)

anyway, the resin makes it MUCH sturdier. Like, hard as ROCK. and sandable:)
 
That visor looks way too small to fit any ODST helmet, unless yours is massive.

Mine is massive, it turns out that the visor was supposed to be for a helmet that I had to pay separately. I still have the template for the visor from the file, but in order for it to actually look the part, I'm going to use Plexiglas.considering I'm not well endowed with money to create a vacuum seal of a made model.i'm just trying to find out which plexiglass has the characteristics to bend a certain way to look like the visor.
 
well, you can either pour it, or you can mix the resin onto a plate, and brush the resin onto the part (which is what I do, It helps to make sure there isn't too much resin on the part, and blotting the details.)
also, you'll need to lightly sand the wood glue for best result (if you're going the resin route, that is)

anyway, the resin makes it MUCH sturdier. Like, hard as ROCK. and sandable:)

That's very helpful, is there a special name for this type of resin, though? I'm still new to this.^^;
 
I'm pretty sure that mblackwell is just talking about bondo fiberglass resin. You can get it in pretty much any hardware store.
 
I'm pretty sure that mblackwell is just talking about bondo fiberglass resin. You can get it in pretty much any hardware store.

Okay so the resin is for the use with fiberglass, but I can skip the fiber glass part and just mix the compounds and brush multiple coats. Got it.
 
no, what I use is smooth-on: smooth-cast 300.
It is not toxic, that's the difference. HERE's the link.

it's a little bit more expensive, but WAY better for your lungs, so you don't have to buy a $30 respirator.
 
As for the Visor, I was thinking about Andrew's way with the folder, but I also heard of some techniques with plexiglass. Using a far more study material. But I also heard of this "flexible metallic material" from iconic props. I might need some help with this.
 
I just found out that this "Flexibil metallic material" has the capabilities of a one way mirror, but has the physical characteristics of card stock.
 
smooth-cast 300 is a resin. It's a casting resin used for getting nice details in castings and is very strong, whereas fiberglass is only meant to make things stronger with the addition of fiberglass fiber
It works the exact same way as fiberglass. it's a tad bit thicker and looks better when sanded.
I'd suggest mixing the smooth-cast and then pouring it onto a plate, an then brush it on to the part before you put the visor in.
you don't want to accidentally get resin on your visor, also, no matter what you put on the helmet, it will need to get sanded. no matter what.

in regards to visors, I'd suggest stony prop's metallic visors. (it's the stuff you were looking at)
Icon props is a person who is a member of stony props, BTW
 
OK, so, four coats of wood glue on the pieces are enough considering that they are filling up the scored marks.so right now I'm going to sand the rough edges and try to get the scorch marks back again. Then I will prime the entire thing, possibly two coats...for if I use an extra fine sandpaper.
 
Okay, I'm finally at a place with wifi, so I'll bring you guys up to speed. I Didn't put the resin on because it will cover-up the little crevices; I'll save that option for my "Mk II" or friend's helmet. Instead, I sanded a little bit because I made sure to spread the glue. Then I sprayed some grey primer.
IMG_5864.jpgIMG_5866.jpg IMG_5867.jpg IMG_5865.jpg

Then I spray painted the pieces dark Blue.
IMG_5868.jpg

I will spray the rest sometime soon, still doing the designs of what I want this to look like.
 
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