Halo Reach: ODST Mk I

Discussion in 'New Recruits' started by ACBrotherhood, Nov 12, 2016.

  1. mblackwell1002

    mblackwell1002

    no, what I use is smooth-on: smooth-cast 300.
    It is not toxic, that's the difference. HERE's the link.

    it's a little bit more expensive, but WAY better for your lungs, so you don't have to buy a $30 respirator.
     
  2. ACBrotherhood

    ACBrotherhood Jr Member

    As for the Visor, I was thinking about Andrew's way with the folder, but I also heard of some techniques with plexiglass. Using a far more study material. But I also heard of this "flexible metallic material" from iconic props. I might need some help with this.
     
  3. ACBrotherhood

    ACBrotherhood Jr Member

    And it works the same way as the resin?
     
  4. ACBrotherhood

    ACBrotherhood Jr Member

    I just found out that this "Flexibil metallic material" has the capabilities of a one way mirror, but has the physical characteristics of card stock.
     
  5. ACBrotherhood

    ACBrotherhood Jr Member

  6. ACBrotherhood

    ACBrotherhood Jr Member

    I think I'll buy this and use it before using the plexiglass.
     
  7. mblackwell1002

    mblackwell1002

    smooth-cast 300 is a resin. It's a casting resin used for getting nice details in castings and is very strong, whereas fiberglass is only meant to make things stronger with the addition of fiberglass fiber
    It works the exact same way as fiberglass. it's a tad bit thicker and looks better when sanded.
    I'd suggest mixing the smooth-cast and then pouring it onto a plate, an then brush it on to the part before you put the visor in.
    you don't want to accidentally get resin on your visor, also, no matter what you put on the helmet, it will need to get sanded. no matter what.

    in regards to visors, I'd suggest stony prop's metallic visors. (it's the stuff you were looking at)
    Icon props is a person who is a member of stony props, BTW
     
  8. Fuzzytrexy

    Fuzzytrexy New Member

    Lovin' that detail!
     
  9. ACBrotherhood

    ACBrotherhood Jr Member

    OK, so, four coats of wood glue on the pieces are enough considering that they are filling up the scored marks.so right now I'm going to sand the rough edges and try to get the scorch marks back again. Then I will prime the entire thing, possibly two coats...for if I use an extra fine sandpaper.
     
  10. ACBrotherhood

    ACBrotherhood Jr Member

    Okay, I'm finally at a place with wifi, so I'll bring you guys up to speed. I Didn't put the resin on because it will cover-up the little crevices; I'll save that option for my "Mk II" or friend's helmet. Instead, I sanded a little bit because I made sure to spread the glue. Then I sprayed some grey primer.
    IMG_5864.jpg IMG_5866.jpg IMG_5867.jpg IMG_5865.jpg

    Then I spray painted the pieces dark Blue.
    IMG_5868.jpg

    I will spray the rest sometime soon, still doing the designs of what I want this to look like.
     
    Thom A293 likes this.
  11. ACBrotherhood

    ACBrotherhood Jr Member

    I also have the boomco assault rifle and I must admit, it's a little smaller than I imagined, but the magnum seems to fit perfectly. I already have a holster for the pistol, but I also want to do the same for the assault. I was thinking of hot gluing magnets inside the rifle and on the ODST back. there's also this Idea of a metal coat hanger as an alternative.
     
    Thom A293 likes this.
  12. Thom A293

    Thom A293

    Magnets are probably better. You will have to play around with it because the rifle might have some weight to it (I don't really know). In my opinion, I'd add a few magnets and see if they hold the rifle to the back, if not, add another pair and keep doing it until the rifle holds well and can be taken off easily.
     
  13. Artifice

    Artifice 405th Regiment Officer

    This is awesome it looks like a mirror image of how I did mine, Awesome and keep up the grate work
     
  14. ACBrotherhood

    ACBrotherhood Jr Member

    So I took apart the the gun and sprayed on a clear primer that I got from Sherwin William paint store
    IMG_6031.jpg IMG_6032.jpg

    After the Primer dried, I grabbed a black, water-based paint, added some water, put it on the gun and wiped off the excess
    IMG_6033.jpg

    After that dried, I grabbed a brush, some silver metal paint, and did this tchnique called "Dry brushing."
    IMG_6038.jpg IMG_6037.jpg IMG_6044.jpg IMG_6043.jpg IMG_6042.jpg IMG_6041.jpg IMG_6040.jpg IMG_6039.jpg

    I will let you know more about this process when I have finished putting on the mat coat.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2017
    mblackwell1002 likes this.
  15. ACBrotherhood

    ACBrotherhood Jr Member

    Update! I went to Home Depot and bought some strong magnets. after that, I took out the equipment inside because it made the gun too heavy for it for the magnets to support.
    IMG_6102.jpg

    IMG_6101.jpg
    I put the hollowed piece up, traced it and applied magnets afterwards; both on the piece and inside the gun. Each magnet in the photo is a set of two magnets for extra support.

    IMG_6104.jpg

    IMG_6103.jpg
    Now I am able to do as the games did when setting the gun aside.

    IMG_6105.jpg

    At first I was worried about this part, but then I saw it has screws. Which means it's hollow, which means it can be taken apart, which means I can put magnets inside. I think I'll paint it so it can match the rest of the gun. but there's the progress so far.
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2017
    Thom A293 likes this.
  16. StayFrosty

    StayFrosty

    Interesting choice keeping the AR it's original colors. Nice work on the magnet system, being able to mount the gun to your back definitely adds that cool factor
     
  17. Dirtdives

    Dirtdives

    Agreed, but how will it hold up if you bend, flex, or bump in to people and stuff like that? For a smaller item like and M6 or knife...magnets work out ok.....This is a big piece. I'm just worried it will fall and break on you. Try to put a tether attachment on the gun so if it does fall off the magnets, it won't hit the floor.
     
    Thom A293 likes this.
  18. mblackwell1002

    mblackwell1002

    well, it used to be a toy, so it should survive. know what I mean?
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2017
  19. Dirtdives

    Dirtdives

    You tell that to the person who put hours and hours of time in to it. "Just a toy"........ain't gona cut it if its broken.
     
  20. ACBrotherhood

    ACBrotherhood Jr Member

    I understand what you're saying and your comments are valuable, but what you didn't see is me accidentally dropping this at the height I would have this thing at when walking around; And she still purrs like a kitten. If it makes you feel better, I am also making a battle riffle out of EVA foam as well before the Halloween season shows up. and I just got started on this project 2 months ago. imagine all the time I have for another 8 months?
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2017
  21. Blade

    Blade New Member

    Hey what files/templates did u use for your helmet looks awesome way way way better than the one I built I used the Andrew dft file/templates and looks OK but yours it as I said way better haha help a brother out
     
  22. ACBrotherhood

    ACBrotherhood Jr Member

    It's on a file that was created by a user named "Chernobyl." When you enter the website there will be a category in the gray box labeled "file archive." You should find the file there.
     
  23. Blade

    Blade New Member

    Thanks bud
     
  24. PaiganBoi

    PaiganBoi

  25. Blade

    Blade New Member

    The file index doesn't exist any more man :/ I guess I'm sol
     

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