Hey 405th! So I've got a MK VI helmet (by ROBOGENESIS) that is almost ready for some rebreathers (the tubes on the front of the helmet)... The problem is, I haven't seen anything on this site about actually doing these. What do most people make them out of? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! -TMC
"Help!" for: Misc...
- Thread starter 23Magnum
- Start date
- Status
Skullptura
Member
kk thanks.
Carpathia
Sr Member
I've actually posted this twice now, so to keep the repeat posts down, I'll just send you to a link to one of the posts...
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/26848-quot-Help!-quot-for-Papercraft-or-Pepakura?p=636626#post636626
I used to wrong primer. It's like an interior white primer. There are some runs that I can sand down. After that, would I be able to just put grey automotive primer on top of the previous layer (which is white), or do I need to strip the other primer completely off? Will there be any major effects? Thanks for any help 
Carpathia
Sr Member
I used to wrong primer. It's like an interior white primer. There are some runs that I can sand down. After that, would I be able to just put grey automotive primer on top of the previous layer (which is white), or do I need to strip the other primer completely off? Will there be any major effects? Thanks for any help
As long as when you sand the white primer down it does not peel, you should be fine to add a coat of grey primer. Just be sure to wait until the white primer has fully cured (usually overnight) before you sand it down.
The way I do it is: You thin down some black paint (I usually go really thin), and just slap it all over the piece. As it dries it will naturally favor creases, and the thinner will keep it from just painting the piece black. Instead it darkens the corners and creases of a piece. But how you lay down the piece to dry is important, because gravity can pull the black paint down the piece if it's held vertically. Do some google searches and you'll find good videos on doing it right.
Skullptura
Member
It depends on how you were taught to do it.
Jason 078
Well-Known Member
The way I do it is this.
1) Spray a light coat of black paint over the piece.
2) Immediately wipe it off with a damp cloth.
This will leave the black paint lightly coated in the creases and along the edges of the piece. The better you are able to wipe it off, the better it will look.
Alternatively, if you wanted to weather with/after blackwashing, you could use the acrylic windex method.
Take a spray bottle. Add one cup of windex, three drops of black acrylic paint, two drops of brown paint, and one drop of tan paint (or your preferred color). Shake well. Spray it evenly over your armor and let it dry. Repeat until it is weathered to your preference. Do your boots and lower shins twice as much. After it completely dries, wipe it with a damp cloth to wipe off the excess dried windex (but it will leave the acrylic particles).
Skullptura
Member
Thats how I was taught to do it at school in art class. I suck at it ROFLMAO! Good luck to you though.
DagothDraal
Member
So I want to know: How can I make a pep file, for example a bicep from Halo: Reach, into a foam template file?
Or are there templates that I don't know of?
Or are there templates that I don't know of?
Frozensnot
Well-Known Member
They sound like different brands of paint. I think american accents is just a certain kind of paint that rustoleum makes. But im no paint expert.
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/33480-L3X-s-File-Database this link has a database of foam templates for reach armor. As for changing a pep file to a template for foam, i thought there was an option to remove tabs. But i could be totally wrong.
spn phoenix 92
New Member
Yes there is, I would also change the setting to hide edges less than 165 degrees. to do this, tress Ctrl+E and slide the degree slider to 165. I seen this in a youtube video from TheHeroTutorials in his foam armor series.
Skullptura
Member
Why dont you guys just do what I did and cut them off?
I've been looking around the site some and certainly see why it has the reputation it does. Unfortunately, being in the Army doesn't leave me much time for these kind of projects. I'm looking to make a replica armor set of my spartan from Halo: Reach, and I am looking for anybody who is currently taking commissions. I know it's a rare occurence, but I figure asking never hurts. Anyone interested in a project?
Jason 078
Well-Known Member
There are a couple of people who take commissions, but generally asking is looked down upon. Actually, being in the Army, you have access to more tools than most of us do. Believe me, I would kill for one of the shops at Lewis right about now, especially if the CNC was working.
The issue at hand is not resources, fortunately. It's time. I can see where it would be frowned upon, but it's the most realistic option I have. Perhaps I will save my project for my separation from the military. There are a couple items that the Army probably won't be getting back from me that I think would go great with a Spartan suit.
Okay, I have a question of opinions and experiences here. What would you recommend for me to use to secure dowel rods in a mask before resin and rondo? I am currently using hot glue and I've tried masking tape but it ripped up the rondo while I was taking the rods out, it also didn't yield a very pretty rondo around where the tape was under the rondo.
Biocreative
New Member
What I've been doing is putting hot gluing rods in before resining, then doing an outer coat or two of resin, then I usually take them out. So far, the resin has been supportive enough. But on larger things, I rondo with the rods in, then just cut the rods at the base.
- Status
