1. 581-Erudite Watch
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"Help!" for: Misc...

Discussion in 'New Recruits' started by 23Magnum, Aug 20, 2010.

  1. JayOneSeven

    JayOneSeven Jr Member

    I'd recommend those giant bubble wrap type things, they always come in my packages from amazon. They're like 6 inch square bubbles of air, they really do help to cushion the product though, never had anything broken while using them!
  2. Retralpha

    Retralpha New Member

    anyone know what to do if my helmet is sized to my head, but cant get through the opening?
  3. RobotChicken



    But seriously, options I'd consider are 1] (what most people do) trim the opening so your head can fit through (an option I'm not keen on myself, as it distorts the look of the helmet's bottom), 2] replace the bottom with foam so it's flexible and will allow your head through, or 3] split the helmet like people do with the torso and apply it in two halves, like the Power Rangers helmets.

    GREENSAPPH1RE New Member

    Hi Everyone! :)
    I'm going to be making a mannequin of my body to help with sizing my foam armor as I go along. I'm going to be making the mannequin out of duct tape (and help from a friend). For those of you who have made one this way; what did you fill it with once it was completed?



    I havent made one before, but i think the duct tape is strong enough to support itself, if not, i recommend expanding foam insulation, but you have to be careful because it can expand so much that it bursts the thing that you are filling. if you use it, i would go with drilling small holes to relaease the foam then cutting the foam to be level with the duct tape. Good luck:)
  6. Ghost Bear 027

    Ghost Bear 027

  7. Demogorgon


    As Ghost Bear 027 said, use cling wrap before you wrap duct tape around yourself, this preserves your clothes. When it comes to stuffing, I used shredded newspapers. Brown packaging paper also works.
  8. Jason 078

    Jason 078

    I used one of those disposable painting suits as the under layer.
  9. StayGoldenTonyBoy

    StayGoldenTonyBoy New Member

    Alright, so I have a question that might not have been asked yet.

    I'm in the process of detailing the foot part of the Halo 4 undersuit, (Only the foot, like with no armor pieces hovering/attatched to the surface of it.) and I was thinking I want to make the shoe without having to put a real shoe in it. So I came up with an idea. What if, after the whole molding process, I could fill the inside of the mold with some flexible material, wrap my real-life foot in cling wrap (like a duct tape dummy) and stick in the mold and let it harden around my foot, making it a perfect and comfortable fit to my foot when the cast is pulled out.

    Would this actually work? I've had this idea on my mind for a couple days, but I don't have the expertise to know if this is actually feasible.
  10. EVAkura

    EVAkura RCO 405th Regiment Officer

    I am not going to say it won't work, but I can see problems that may arise. First would be finding a material durable enough to withstand the abuse a normal shoe undergoes. Second would be breathability. If those two can be worked out, then this is a good idea that I think would work nicely.

    I simply built my undersuit footwear from scratch using EVA.
  11. StayGoldenTonyBoy

    StayGoldenTonyBoy New Member

    Silly me, I completely forgot about the breathablity factor.... I think I could remedy that by drilling a few air holes in the broad side connecting to where the foot goes. I could apply a fine mesh material over the holes to keep mud and unwanted bugs out as well... For the material, I was thinking silicone so it can flex with the foot.... As for the bottom, I think I could make a separate thin mold that incorporates the detail on the bottom of the shoe, and cast that as a solid piece with a thicker rubber. I'll have to think more on that bit.

    Thank you for the quick reply! Oh, and your undersuit build is what got me inspired to take on this project. You have amazing skill, and amazing work to prove it. :D
  12. MoHawkMarine

    MoHawkMarine New Member

    What about ballistic gel? I bet that would feel great to walk on all day. Though I'm not sure how fast it sets up.
  13. StayGoldenTonyBoy

    StayGoldenTonyBoy New Member

    After doing a bunch of research of shore hardness and other things, I've found out that Smooth-On sells a product called "Econ 80 Urethane Rubber". The durability of this material is better than a truck tire yet less than a skateboard wheel. That solves the problem for the sole of the boot, but I am unsure about the ballistics gel for the main body. All I know about it is that it is used in bullet penetration and effectiveness tests.

    My main concerns about using the gel would be:
    1:Cost to make/buy
    2:Can it be cured around your foot without harm, and
    3:Will it be ripped apart or shredded by mild abrasives? (ie: dirt, gravel, or sand paper)
  14. ADAWG99

    ADAWG99 New Member

  15. Alkatraz


    I am having an issue that seems to have very few threads related to it, or at least I am not finding them well enough. Two of my friends who have joined the 405th a few days after me have lost the ability to access the site completely. As soon as their accounts were activated properly the site would time out every time they accessed it. I was just wondering if there is anyone knows why this is happening and if there is a solution to the issue.
  16. MoHawkMarine

    MoHawkMarine New Member

    So after a bit of research ballistics gel probably wouldn't be the best choice. though it is really cheap to make it doesn't hold up to wear and tear. but it is safe to pour over your foot. but it would cure unless you put your foot in the fridge.

    NEW Idea, Dragon Skin by Smooth On. Its rubbery, and flexible, and pretty durable. Not sure if its safe to put on your bare foot, But you could make a mold of your foot and use that.
  17. Gray


    Hey all! Need some assistance here with finding a peticular pair of gloves. So I've seen these gloves before (the ones I'm trying to find), but I cannot find them on the internet or 405th where ever I have searched. They resemble these gloves:
    but they are a little bit longer, and have a different pattern for the glove itself(striped if I recall correctly). These gloves do have the armor over them similar the ones in the image, but they have a different fit around the hand... a tighter fit. I hope that's enough info for someone to imagine what I am looking for :D.
  18. Ashuraa

    Ashuraa Judicial Officer Division Staff 405th Regiment Officer

    My spouse and I have been having a similar issue. What we found out is that the IP might be the issue. Either wait several days, or get an IP # blocker. Apparently the site here has been having this issue randomly for the last 6 months or so. At least that is what my spouse was able to figure out from reading a lot of older posts on the 405th's facebook page.
  19. Demogorgon


    Yeah many people have had issues connecting to the site.

    Try THIS. I use this all the time when I have issues connecting to a website or need to share files with peers through P2P networking.
  20. Ashuraa

    Ashuraa Judicial Officer Division Staff 405th Regiment Officer

    I think I found the gloves you are looking for, or something similar....\
    I found them <<HERE>> at Alipinestars
  21. BlueFreeze128


    Hey, i just wanted to ask about rotary tools. what kind should i get if i got one? i'm trying to do some research on it but there are so many kinds i couldn't understand it. I was hoping someone on here could help. Thanks!
  22. Zaff


    Are you asking about the rotory tools themselves, or the attachments? For the most part a tool is a tool, but it's best to look for one with a variable speed option rather than just a simple on/off switch, as some work is better done with high speed, and some is best done with low speed.

    As for attachments/bits, one good item to have is a flex/snake attachment, as this basically transfers the movement from the bulky (and in some cases unwieldy) rotary tool to a much smaller, almost a "stylus" type tool. Some good bits to have are engraving bits, carbide/cutting bits, and high quality cut-off wheels (the little film canister looking things with like half a dozen paper-thin discs, from my experience, are not worth the trouble. I've broken more of them than I've had projects in need of cutting). Drill bits (typically offered in much smaller sizes than with a standard drill) can also be quite useful for creating holes for wiring, venting, and lighting, as well as smaller and less conspicuous screw holes. Grinding wheels are also useful for deburring fiberglass builds and for some foam work as well. Foam especially is where the variable speed will come in handy, as you are going to want to use a low speed setting to decrease friction (and the very prevalent possibility of melting the foam).

    That would be my suggested supply list, anyway. Probably could get a more detailed list from more experienced builders.
  23. BlueFreeze128


    thank you Zaff! I didn't really know anything about dremels really. I'm just working on my noble 6 helmet right now and i'm getting frustrated with the bondoing and sanding and doing that process repeatedly and not getting the result that i want. I mean I finally got my helmet about where i need it to be with the sanding part but my hands are very raw and damaged from the sanding. is there one that is good for sanding?
  24. Zaff


    There are sanding "drum" attachments, basically a small (about half an inch) tall tube of sandpaper. Thing is, the barrel can get worn out fast, and using a power tool for sanding can also take away the material fast...and if you're not careful you'll take off a lot more than you intended to. Plus being that the only available sanding bits are rather small, it can still take a long time to smooth an entire piece. I'd recommend picking up some sanding sponges. They're a lot easier on the hands, and they conform to the shape of a piece while still applying fairly even pressure, so you won't be making high spots. Sanding sponges also allow for wet sanding, which can get you an even smoother finish. Just remember that with sanding sponges you'll want to clean them every now and then, otherwise they don't work as well as they should (think chalk eraser that hasn't been clapped in a long time).

    The sanding/bondo stage is one of the most tedious parts of the build, sometimes even more so than all the cutting, folding, and gluing of the pep work. You build it up, you sand it down, then you might find you have to build it back up again, and sand it back down, sometimes even two or three times back and forth to get things right. But every bit of work put in at that stage is worth it, because every minor imperfection left behind will be magnified once you start throwing paint at it. Which is another reason why I'd recommend doing it by hand than using a power tool. You have a lot more control, and it's far less work to slowly sand something down than to grind off too much, have to put more on, and then grind it down again and hope to get it right that time. Plus, sanding bits really only come in one grit type, and it's a low (coarse) grit, which leaves a rougher finish. Sandpaper and sanding sponges come in a variety of grits, and usually higher (finer) grit. For the best results, you'll want to start with a lower grit (60-100) just to shave off the obvious and more heavily built-up rough spots, then gradually work your way up to progressively higher grit numbers to make the finished surface as smooth as possible. You probably wouldn't need to go all the way up to like a 1000 grit, put you'll want to go up to at least 200-250, maybe even up to 300 or 400 if you really want to put the time in. You don't want it to be too ridiculously smooth because then paint and primer won't adhere as well.

    Which brings us to the next step. I'd advise laying down 2-3 light coats of primer (emphasis on "light" because you want to avoid drips and runs), then another 2-3 light coats of your base paint, then again with any secondary/accent color you'll be putting on. Finally, top it off with another 4-7 light coats of clear. The reason I suggest so many coats with the clear is this is when you can go back in with a 400+ grit, preferably wet sanding, and smooth out the clear (which will take off a few of those layers, hence the high number). This will help reduce some of that "orange peel" effect for a more clear reflection. If you really want to go nuts you could even go at it with a microfiber buffer and some fine buffing compound to really polish it up nice.

    And while on the topic of painting, be sure to look specifically for masking tape marked "painter's tape." Regular masking tape will let the paint bleed through, won't leave as crisp an edge, and is more likely to peel up the paint below it. If you want to do any stripes, graphics, or anything with more than just the base color, you'll want painter's tape. And when you're pulling it off after the paint dries, once you get an end peeled loose, pull it slowly and smoothly either at a straight 90 degree angle, or angle it back on itself a bit. That will help "cut" the paint for a more crisp line. If you want the edge to look rough, then go ahead and pull it up any way you want. Maybe even pull it up before the paint has fully dried. Oh, and don't worry about covering the entire piece in tape if the area you want to work on will be small. Just mask around it with a border of tape, and then tape down newspaper or other scrap material (so long as it's heavy enough to not bleed through) overlapping the original tape border so that you have as little tape actually touching the piece you're working on (you're basically taping the newspaper to the tape border).
  25. BlueFreeze128


    Thanks for all your help! Actually, would it be okay if I PM you in case I have any more questions? You can say no lol you've already helped out so much

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