"Help!" for: Papercraft or Pepakura
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BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Help needed SCALING my MK IV Iron man helmet.
I've tried sifting through an overwhelming number of posts here on scaling. I can't make head or tail of any of it. Many of the sticky threads have NO links and lots of garbled code where text should be. I am wondering if I am missing something?
I just downloaded pep designer 3 and found the 2D part where you can change the settings, but have no idea what to input.
Where am I supposed to measure my head from? My head is 59cm in circumference (where a hat brim would sit) and 29cm vertically from chin to top of head. Do I need to measure it from front to back as well?
How does this translate into the settings I need to put into the "Change Pattern Size" dialogue box? (Picture below)
Any help please?
Cheers,
Baz.
I've tried sifting through an overwhelming number of posts here on scaling. I can't make head or tail of any of it. Many of the sticky threads have NO links and lots of garbled code where text should be. I am wondering if I am missing something?
I just downloaded pep designer 3 and found the 2D part where you can change the settings, but have no idea what to input.
Where am I supposed to measure my head from? My head is 59cm in circumference (where a hat brim would sit) and 29cm vertically from chin to top of head. Do I need to measure it from front to back as well?
How does this translate into the settings I need to put into the "Change Pattern Size" dialogue box? (Picture below)
Any help please?
Cheers,
Baz.
You would use the bottom to top measurement that you got, 29 cm, and add a few centimeters for padding and the little thickness from hardening. Changing one measurement will change the others anyway. Most of the time there is an added lip around the rim of the helmet that you can widen or disregard totally.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
SergantTinkers
Jr Member
Remember that scaling is not a black-and-white process. It takes estimation and guess-and-check. Also, there are a few tutorial threads you can look at. However, each tutorial has a little bit different of a suggestion in measurements. I think most can agree, however, that HaloGodess' scaling tutorial is the most reliable.
Here's a link to it: http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/31627-HaloGoddess-quot-How-To-Scale-quot-and-More-Tutorial
Here's a link to it: http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/31627-HaloGoddess-quot-How-To-Scale-quot-and-More-Tutorial
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
The default scale almost fit me perfectly at 291mm high.
Ninjetsu NL
New Member
Oke y'all, I need some advice on the scaling part too... but not what's asked above, I allready went through HaloGodess' tutorial... 
I just want to know if it wise to pep a prototype first on normal paper, just for scale? Or will that just be flimsy and come crashing down?
Thanks for le help in advance
I just want to know if it wise to pep a prototype first on normal paper, just for scale? Or will that just be flimsy and come crashing down?Thanks for le help in advance
SavedbyGraceG12
Well-Known Member
This is something I've been wondering about, I use a hi-temp glue gun. I fine that it works well, but should I be using a low-temp glue gun? If there is a big difference when using either one for peping, then I'll consider purchasing a low temp. If anyone would like to explain? Thank you for your advice.
Oke y'all, I need some advice on the scaling part too... but not what's asked above, I allready went through HaloGodess' tutorial...
Thanks for the help in advance
You can do whatever you want. My personal opinion is that paper won't help as much because it won't give you a good idea of the shape it's going to be, since it's so bendy. Cardstock isn't that much more expensive, so when I want to do a test piece I print it out as normal, and then just use scissors to quick and dirty cut the pieces out. But you can try paper, it may very well work for you!
I think it's mostly to avoid burned fingers, since you are holding the pieces together you are gluing, there's a high change of contact with the nose of the gun.
TheGameReviewer
New Member
Hey there everyone.
Right now, I've downloaded a Mark VI helmet and i've been following this thread:http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/25588-How-to-Scale-Your-Armour-Tutorial-V.2
Now I'm using Pepakura Designer 3.1 and I followed what the thread tells me. The scale is in millimeters and being that I'm only 5'6'' I converted the inches to millimeters. (Around 1600 or so). Now I scaled it, the costume is HUGE. It does not fit the pages WHATSOEVER. What exactly am I doing wrong?
Right now, I've downloaded a Mark VI helmet and i've been following this thread:http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/25588-How-to-Scale-Your-Armour-Tutorial-V.2
Now I'm using Pepakura Designer 3.1 and I followed what the thread tells me. The scale is in millimeters and being that I'm only 5'6'' I converted the inches to millimeters. (Around 1600 or so). Now I scaled it, the costume is HUGE. It does not fit the pages WHATSOEVER. What exactly am I doing wrong?
TheGameReviewer
New Member
I used Method 3. For the helmet, I used Flying Squirrel's blueprint on this site: http://halocostuming.wikia.com/wiki/Pepakura_File_Index
Method #3 in that thread should say: This method only works for Robogenesis' Mk VI files. That's why its not working for Flying Squirrel's model.
You should use HaloGoddess' scaling method for the Flying Squirrel models:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/31627-HaloGoddess-quot-How-To-Scale-quot-and-More-Tutorial
You should end up with a height somewhere between 270mm and 320mm depending on how big your head is. Don't forget to add a centimeter or so to the final size to allow for padding and hardening.
You should use HaloGoddess' scaling method for the Flying Squirrel models:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/31627-HaloGoddess-quot-How-To-Scale-quot-and-More-Tutorial
You should end up with a height somewhere between 270mm and 320mm depending on how big your head is. Don't forget to add a centimeter or so to the final size to allow for padding and hardening.
SergantTinkers
Jr Member
Got a question: When people make "cardboard" suits and designs, what kind of cardboard are they using? Main reason is because of some confusion I had reading Spitfire22V's LD build. He used detail pieces made out of cardboard, but it looks like posterboard, so I'm confused.
Heres a link: http://www.405th.com/showthread.php...k-VI-build-Now-Completed?highlight=mark+build
The very last picture of the first page should give you an idea of what I'm asking about.
Heres a link: http://www.405th.com/showthread.php...k-VI-build-Now-Completed?highlight=mark+build
The very last picture of the first page should give you an idea of what I'm asking about.
It looks like spitfire is using cardstock which is just a thicker variation of paper. It is what many of us 405th members use to get a high detail that is sturdy enough to hold its shape but isnt to stiff to where you cant work with it. Cardboard from what i have read is used mainly for sliced weapons which is where they take an image and just slice it every 1/8 or 1/4 inch. the cardboard is then used to just lay on top of each other to give you detail so no bending involved. I believe it was just a mis-communication. I would get yourself some cardstock from your local craft store to start your armor
Hi 405th! I'm just about ready to resin the outside of my MK VI helmet, but I have another question. I was planning on putting a visor in the helmet (obviously) and so I pepped the visor as I was told to, but I was wondering at what stage do I actually cut out the paper visor? After the resin coat on the inside and outside? Also, is rondo necessary for every pep or is it just an alternative to fiberglass? Thanks for the help!
The visor is cut out AFTER you rondo the inside. Resin stiffens the paper, but does not provide enough strength to maintain the shape, and one of the main reasons to leave the visor in is to keep the helmet from collapsing, so you wait until the helmet is fully hardened (rondo or fiberglass). The other reason is that if you want to vacuum form, you need the visor to be the exactly correct shape for the helmet's hard to see imperfections.
Rondo is not necessary, but it is very helpful, and is not necessarily an alternative. There are three main ways to harden the helmet: fiberglass, rondo, and hybrid.
Fiberglass: Pros: Lightweight, very strong. Cons: Difficult to apply, Very prone to air bubbles especially around edges and recessed areas, air bubbles which can ruin the piece.
Rondo: Pros: Fast and easy to apply, great for sanding. Cons: Very heavy, brittle enough that dropping is not recommended.
Hybridding takes the best of both of them together. You pour a layer of rondo in first, that smooths all of the hard edges that make fiberglass bubble, and also provides a layer you can sand/cut into when you are detailing the outside (in case you break through the paper which many people always do), while the fiberglass keeps the weight to strength ratio high, and protects the helmet from cracking.
In pepakura designer is an option to 2d Menu -> "Invert Pattern"
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