Hidden Blade

[Panton6]

i might start one just check my profile if i make one, although the picture will give me a good idea. i wont have to fling my hand forward to pull it out i can just press my finger and it will come out. although i probably wont make one.

40% i make it

60% i wont make it

 

[darthturkey]

Heres the video of what i have currently for my blade i will give a full tut once i have it done.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6N0PEUGvhs

 

[redragon74]

well, for the pred one, go here.
http://www.thehunterslair.com/

I browsed through there and still am.... looks like most of them are using crazy lookin pneumatics and stuffs... if u feel like doing that u could lol
but then i found this lil guy

http://www.thehunterslair.com/index.php?showtopic=3706
*stolen from Chris the Fury avp*

a few people asked me how i did the blade mechanism on my gauntlet (still in progress) so i put this little demo together. I have NO mechanical knowledge and i had no plans of spending much money(i only spent $6 in balsa wood). So, its hard to explain and i made it out of junk. but here you go.

inside pull down blinds, there is a long positive spring supported by 2 shafts. i dismantled the whole thing (years ago just out of curiousity) and took one shaft and cut the spring in half. then i went into my "box-o-junk" and found the backing to a clock motor. it was a thin,square,plastic piece with a whole in the center for the clock arms. i also found a thin metal rod that i believe was the axel to a remote control car.
i built a long rectangular box out of balsa wood and pieces of a tupperware container lid with an open end. this box has long slits down the length of the sides (made from tupperware) where the guiding rod travels.
the clock piece was glued to the back ends of the blades so they ran parallel to each other, then a hole was drilled through both blades for the guiding rod to go through(then, also glued in place).
ok, shaft with spring is affixed to the back of the inside of the box. shaft is ran through the hole in plastic clock piece, and guiding rod is run through slits in side of box. here the blades can be pulled back and forth down the length of box with the spring as resistance. i cut a piece of tupperware plastic in the shape of a small shark fin and glued it to the outside of the box. it is in the location that it just barely rises over one of the slits in the box, so when the guiding rod is pulled back it will get caught just past the shark fin. this locks the blades in the "retracted" postion.
now i simply cut a rectangle of wood to deviate the blades and partially cover the open end of the box. this keeps the blades from flying across the room into someone's eye.

to activate the blades, i lightly press up on the rod which frees the blades to be pushed down the length of the box and into "extended" postion.

this obviously isnt the greatest way to do this but, its how i did it. hope it helps


this one was another one *electric* no pics though so dont no how it turned out -,-
http://www.thehunterslair.com/index.php?showtopic=3346

(This may or may not go in this forum, as I've been having bad luck with that apparently. And as said, don't rush out and buy parts immediately, as you may buy something that won't work.)

I've been thinking of inexpensive ways to make a working wristblade system with easily found parts. And I can easily get obsessed over something I start thinking about. This was an obsession that I have been slaving over for a long time now. I finally have come up with an idea of my own.

-----
(Disclaimer: I may change this list at any given time, so watch it carefully.)

Okay, here's what I figure I'll need:

PVC Plastic*
Electric motor- 2 needed
String
Blade mount
Drawer slide rail- 2 needed
Base for system
And of course, 8 batteries, a few wires, and an on/off switch.

*PVC plastic will be used for the base and blades in my own specific set, but what I use doesn't have to apply to you. You can use aluminum, wood, or even cardboard if you want. Just so long as it is usable.

Please note that I'm still coming up with plausible ideas for what to hold the items down with, I'm sorry, but if anyone has any good ideas I'm more than listening.
-----
Okay, I got to thinking about it quite a bit, and this has been the most effective cheap way I can think of. And fairly easy. I unfortunately have not been able to try it, but if it does work it'll be here.

Okay, I figure you set up the two drawer slide rails, which I will refer to as rail mounts, next to each other in the middle, with enough space to place the blade mount on it. Attach the blade mount to the rail mount, at the back for the best results. Don't attach those blades yet, folks, there's a surprise to this later. Take one of the motors and tie the string to it, and set it at the tip of where you plan to have the housing so that it can have as much room as possible for the blades to come forward, but remember to place it on the SIDE, though it does not matter which side, just make sure that the spinning part faces inward toward the blades, not outward toward the housing. This will make sure it can reach the front of the gauntlets, which should currently be at the point of how far back you want them. This will require a longer gear for the motor, or whatever you call the part that makes it spin, and you will definately want to have a piece at the end that can keep the string from coming off. This applies to both motors, remember now. This first mentioned motor should only be tied, and should not yet have the string wrap around. The gauntlets should be in the ''in'' position, now ''out'' position. Now remember, this string should reach the front hold of the blade mount of whatever side it is being used on.

A second motor should be placed at the back, but on the opposite side of the original. The same rules apply as the original motor, EXCEPT for the fact that this one should be tied and wrapped, making sure it won't move, and the string should reach from the motor to the rear hole of whatever end of the blade mount it is being used on while it is in the ''out position'' instead of the ''in position,'' so it is basically the opposite of the first one. The batteries will come in two groups of four, four for each motor. Connect them through the wires that are about to be used, and make sure said wires run up to a single on/off button or switch, which can be on the gauntlet or run down to your fingertips depending on how you make the wires run, though on your gauntlet seems to be a better choice for most. But what's this, I skipped a step? No, I was saving it.

So, then come the blades. The string I mentioned before? Tie it through those holes I said they had to reach. Now you can mount your blades onto it, and the strings won't mess up and come off because they're secured by the blades. Now once you get that housing on and have that in and out switch or button working, you have a system which will pull the blades forward or backward depending on which button you hit, and here's the thing--- You don't need anything to stop the blades from sliding out, because the strings will hold it in place due to being held on both sides and only being able to go so far.
-----
As said before, I don't know if it would actually work, so I figured I'd ask the members if they think this will work... And if it does, we have another wristblade tutorial

hope the posts help SORRY THERE LONG!!! >< lol

 

[darthturkey]

Im sorry i know the only way by law of energy and physics is to use some other power source. Thats why citrifical force and a spring would work. But any other type would need to be rococked after each try. But most people want a sleek one and quite frankly motors starts with gears and bands that can slip up at any time possible. They burn out. Ands its just not the look there going for.


Scenario
Sneek up behind your target ready to make the kill grab him push the button nothing happens
Oh wait hold on can you not run or yell i have to change my hidden blades abtteries real quick. Basically preadtor style yes an electronic bulky setup is open but for a "hidden" blade its reall out of the question. Besides that factor motors that your thinging off dont have the strengh to retract a metal dagger that fast or to cock it. Also your method is just simply to hard to construct.

NOW let me clarify im not critiszing your method im simply saying yes it would work buts its just not practical for a hidden blade and dont take this personally.

 

[redragon74]

thats.....notmy method.... if u actually read EVERYTHING i said...it said i took it from the preditor forums....

and you would also see that the first one is spring loaded and the pic is showen on how it was done
and you would also see that the second one had motors.....
now i could have gone the full distance and shown you prolly a 500$ big ass bulky rigg that used pneumatic pumps... but i spared everyone
even though it looked badass... and i did put in there HOPE IT HELPS...meaning hope it sparks some Ideas

as for the motor issue burning out you know you always can put in a lil area so you can replace something or even make a box thats hollowed out
and the part that sits on your arm doesnt have a back incase a failure happens

and i dont think someones going to be going around at a con shanking someone

 

[darthturkey]

Also just glancing over the materials again i know what the tut means by a drawer slide rail but they dont sell those anymore. Now they either have an idependent rail system that relies on weight to keep the other side connected or the ball bearing onces which are to big and heavy.

 

[redragon74]

http://www.rockler.com/go.cfm?find=drawer+...mp;cookietest=1

and theres
lowes
homedepot
wallyworld
superwallyworld
and this place down the street from me Skycraft or local hobby stores
dumps
cabinet/furniture stores



and again

i posted the tuts for referance purps./to get the ball rolling as i said before

 

[Panton6]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BIBoB_ErZCY...feature=related lego sliding mechanism with plastic blade, a bit of cardboard, some resin, some bondo, and a sander and a good shell can also be made, as well as a more accurate blade.
SLIGHT SPOILER....you have been warned.
Awsome game, I am getting a bit tired of all the assassination missions, anyone mind telling me if there is anything else that will happen after all the targets are eliminated? I am on my seventh target, currently gathering information. It's just getting repetative to constantly do the same thing 9 times, so I hope that's not what the entire game consists of.

Oh and, IDK how you plan on wielding that hidden blade, it does say that Altair had to get his finger amputated in order for it to work.

i probobly will use lego use cardboard to deatail and cover the lego outside,ya i might try resin if not o well, and ill detail then paint it i might try make it as close looking as the one in the picture on the first post, so ill post it if i finish, and youll see my progress later.

 

[spartan 1]

As far as wielding it goes, you could just make a fist and rest it on the blade

 

[drgon47]

Aye, but if you infact make the blade real, then you may consider making a leather finger protector so if it slides out and you cant make a fist fast enough you dont actually have to get your finger cut at the stump.

 

[darthturkey]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6N0PEUGvhs
Not to nudge or anything but i got the video up of what i had by request.
Mind i still have to shape the point out of copper
You know fold it over hammer it bench grinder dremel fiel repeat
But I also plan on attaching the point with copper pipe sealers.
I belive the stuff is called cold weld its used for copper piping I have left over so I plan on attaching it with that.

 

[spartan 1]

Aye, but if you infact make the blade real, then you may consider making a leather finger protector so if it slides out and you cant make a fist fast enough you dont actually have to get your finger cut at the stump.

Something else I was thinking of was have a safety installed on the ring, so you have to have your hand back for the blade to open

 

[darthturkey]

Thats exactly how my blade works it uses your hand to open it so you cant open it without opening your hand. I designed that as the opening ability as well as a risk factor reducer.

 

[Ronster]

So you'd have to manually extend the blade?

 

[Pkmnjunky7]

hey guys, I saw this thread today so i went out in the garage and whipped this up.

Basically i just took a free paint stir stick from lowes and cut it to knife shape then i used my belt sander to bevel the edges. I made the hole with my router. (The drill split the first one) Im going to try the gauntlet shank thing eventually. Just thought you guys would like to see it.

 

[masterme]

nice, that looks like a nice blade for a quik project

 

[silvershadow]

hey, nice blades, this is a project i would also like to try, I found this in the related videos, freakin sweet

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BIBoB_ErZCY...feature=related

 

[23Magnum]

Good news (for everyone that's still interested any way), I think I've found the true way to do the Altair Blade. Though, I sort of doubt this technology was around back then, but this is the best likeness to the action of the blade in all the game previews and videos I've been watching trying to study how it works. I don't have specific plans yet. If you check back in a week or so, I may have a virtual demostration of my designs.

Where'd I get my idea? It's a secret, but some people may have figured this out already. It's somewhat complex, yet simple at the same time.

I'll release my source for my idea once the initial plans are done. Then later, once it's built, I'll show you the finished product.

One thing though, I will not release my plans in detailed fashion to anyone. I feel it would be irresponsible of me to teach others how to make a weapon that could be use to harm, or even kill, someone else. You may find the information I found the same way and utilize it on your own, but don't ask me to tell you how to do it.

Now with that said, I'll check back sometime later this week with a progress pic or something, but like I said, nothing will show you how to actually make this.

Here's the first and only clue till I'm done...OTF. Even that may be too much.

And for those that figure it out...SHHHH! Let the mystery remain till I'm done.

-Magnum

 

[Chazodude]

hehehe, your secrets safe with me. i was actually gonna try this until i found the prices! good luck on yours, i think i will make one from instructions i found...

 

[spartan 1]

Good news (for everyone that's still interested any way), I think I've found the true way to do the Altair Blade. Though, I sort of doubt this technology was around back then, but this is the best likeness to the action of the blade in all the game previews and videos I've been watching trying to study how it works. I don't have specific plans yet. If you check back in a week or so, I may have a virtual demostration of my designs.

Where'd I get my idea? It's a secret, but some people may have figured this out already. It's somewhat complex, yet simple at the same time.

I'll release my source for my idea once the initial plans are done. Then later, once it's built, I'll show you the finished product.

One thing though, I will not release my plans in detailed fashion to anyone. I feel it would be irresponsible of me to teach others how to make a weapon that could be use to harm, or even kill, someone else. You may find the information I found the same way and utilize it on your own, but don't ask me to tell you how to do it.

Now with that said, I'll check back sometime later this week with a progress pic or something, but like I said, nothing will show you how to actually make this.

Here's the first and only clue till I'm done...OTF. Even that may be too much.

And for those that figure it out...SHHHH! Let the mystery remain till I'm done.

-Magnum

I already mentioned those a few posts back. I'm trying to find blueprints for some Would you PM plox?