Iron Man Mark 50 custom version

Sean Anwalt

RCO
405th Regiment Officer
im skeptical of the ability to use eva foam as a shoe..
ExCeLLuR8 showed me a way to do things for his boots by using horse- stall rubber mat as the sole and shoe gooing it to the shell, which is made of EVA foam. This method actually works really, really well. I highly recommend it.

BUT!!! On the surface of the rubber and the foam where the shoe goo will go, (I attached them directly with super glue, first) scuff up with sandpaper or similar device before applying the goo. Otherwise the goo will not adhere appropriately, and you'll have problems.
 

ExCeLLuR8

Well-Known Member
ExCeLLuR8 showed me a way to do things for his boots by using horse- stall rubber mat as the sole and shoe gooing it to the shell, which is made of EVA foam. This method actually works really, really well. I highly recommend it.

BUT!!! On the surface of the rubber and the foam where the shoe goo will go, (I attached them directly with super glue, first) scuff up with sandpaper or similar device before applying the goo. Otherwise the goo will not adhere appropriately, and you'll have problems.
Yup, 1/2 inch rubber horse stall mats set in the eva shells with shoe goo and of course setting my host shoe right to the rubber soles the same way. Definitely clean the rubber with alcohol very well and scuff with sand paper as Sean mentioned. Mine are rock solid boots and extremely durable! My host shoe is a Tread Safe shoe from wall mart that I picked because the rubber on the shoe was very soft, pliable, and honey comb tread patterned, perfect for the shoe goo to bond to when joining the costume boot to the host shoe.
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OJ102

Jr Member
I was thinking of canibalising some crocks, that way its flexible rubber but should also bond well.

Im not even sure where i would wear this other then to the haloween party my kids are going on about! I started this as a new hobby and it just snowballed into a project haha im already thinking of internal wiring and conduits so that the whole suit lights up and has power to all the limbs!
 

ExCeLLuR8

Well-Known Member
I was thinking of canibalising some crocks, that way its flexible rubber but should also bond well.

Im not even sure where i would wear this other then to the haloween party my kids are going on about! I started this as a new hobby and it just snowballed into a project haha im already thinking of internal wiring and conduits so that the whole suit lights up and has power to all the limbs!
You be surprised how addicting wearing your armor in public becomes. I use to say the same thing, that I would never wear it, just build for fun. Yeah that changes real quick! Haha crocks may work, just depends on how bulky their profile will be, also they dont have the tightest fit to your foot, they may make you boot seem "floppy" to wear but definitely dont rule them out, may work perfect in your situation.
 

OJ102

Jr Member
Update: made the test templates for the boot and shin today. Ive hinged them at the ankle and can put it on like a tall boot, just!

The shin comes right up to the knee so its the right length. The boos needs a little padding inside to be comfee however.

This boot is all made of eva foam. No shoe inside. The sole has details which seems redundant but its very complete!

Just need the thigh now then i can get an idea of the whole body!
 

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OJ102

Jr Member
Update. Made the thigh.. ita about 6 inches too long somehow.. too much to modify unfortunatly without loosing the shape.

Helmet was a perfect fit, arms needed a little length added. Cod needed a lot added, and legs need a huge amount off them! The chest was fine too... tony stark has to be CGI! Or im totally out of porportion!

Im out of low density foam now too, so if i try the legs again ill need to order more. But i think ill need more high density later on anyway so i may build the upper body first and combine orders for the legs later
 

OJ102

Jr Member
Current progress.
+Helmet is a snug fit.
+Arms are roomy inside but had to be extended for length.
+Abs and cod had to be extended.
+Chest and back seem to be a cosy fit.
+Hand is a cosy fit across palm and hands

The shoe has about 3cm space at the toes, the shin is maybe 2cm too long, the thigh is HUGE, about 10 cm too long and massive inside. Too much to alter so will need to start mew templates for them.
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OJ102

Jr Member
Overnight i decided to test some of my flexipaint on the helmet to see how it applies, since this is test armour its nothing lost.

After 3 coats tho its still patchy, dull, really bad brush stroke ridges, im not happy with it.

I bought the original concentrate, it says mix 5:1 with water which i did. Attached is the result after 3 coats. Its meant to be silver.

I tried the same mix over a primed part of foam with PVA base. It cracked badly as the glue absorbed the water.

I also tried some over white plastidip, thinking maybe black to silver is too harsh a change, bit it doesnt bond to plastidip very well and runs off like oil on a hot pan.

Any suggestions? Ive emailed the company for help but that may take several days to reply and im sure others here used this before.
 

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RandomRanger

Sr Member
This thing is turning out pretty well!
You make me wish I had the budget to do my Mk V suitcase build hehe. Ah well, we'll get there someday.
 

OJ102

Jr Member
Ive started working on the final model nowin high density. So mich nicer to work with and feels like leather once sealed! Ive build the helmet so far amd most of the back.

Using 2mx1m sheets, of which i only need 2 in total, including contact cement and seam sealer, this model will only cost £65 to build. Im still experimenting with a means to paint it however...

Id also like to put lights in the eyes and chest but not sure were to even start..hands are on the list too as are various ports on the arms and torso and legs, but i can upgrade it later!
 

OJ102

Jr Member
This is my latest attempt at painting foam. Im not sure what to really expect as a result realistically from it. Im still getting brush strokes in it no matter how lightly i brush. The image is after the 3rd coat.

I may have my standards of phototshopped colour perfection as unattainable to be fair!

What sort of results can be attained? Im hot pajning the high density till ive perfected paining low density
 

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OJ102

Jr Member
Update: took a while longer to make the torso then last time, the high density foam eats blades very fast and every part needed heat forming to bend!

The image of 2 torso's is the low density vs high density. The high density being on the left. Ignore the pile of armour behind them, they were my tests while practicing joins and such.

The new torso is looking great. Im just starting seal seam and sanding but its not gonna need much other then the chest. I combined the back and chest into 1 section so the shoulders are fluid in transition. I had to modify neck line slightly but ill alter the neck seal to accommodate.

For getting into it, the side sections at the waist are locked in place by those golden push clips. Easy click on and off when you know how but very tough otherwise. They should also blend into the armour as gold is one of the main colours on it.

Next section will be the abs/cod
 

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TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
This is my latest attempt at painting foam. Im not sure what to really expect as a result realistically from it. Im still getting brush strokes in it no matter how lightly i brush. The image is after the 3rd coat.

I may have my standards of phototshopped colour perfection as unattainable to be fair!

What sort of results can be attained? Im hot pajning the high density till ive perfected paining low density
That's actually really good for brushed on paints. You might get a little bit smoother with a foam brush but even then I don't see it getting much smoother after multiple coats.
 

OJ102

Jr Member
If i paint the suit and the brush strokes bother me, would buying an airbrush and doing another coat remove them? The strokes seem purely colour, the surface is as smooth ss glass.

Am airbrush/compressor will set me back almost £100.... so would like to avoid it if possible for now.
 

xXDashIVXx

Well-Known Member
If i paint the suit and the brush strokes bother me, would buying an airbrush and doing another coat remove them? The strokes seem purely colour, the surface is as smooth ss glass.

Am airbrush/compressor will set me back almost £100.... so would like to avoid it if possible for now.
What type of brush are you using? Maybe a softer brush for a more spread out pattern would work better when you paint in a circular motion? Any modelers out there that may also know some tips?
 

OJ102

Jr Member
Im using a soft brush, tho im going to try a flat one and see if that helps.

On a side note, Cod/Abs section is built. I had to make some alterations once it was assembled for it to fit snugly everywhere. It went on with a squeeze but put too much strain on one of the seams causing it to part. To rectify this i had to put clip joins on either side, the same as the chest. Its drying just now then ill start seam sanding and fitting it to the chest!
 

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OJ102

Jr Member
Update/confession

Ive made the forarm/Bicep components and hinged them in place ready for the gold studs, unfortunately ive run out of foam so cant complete the shoulder assembly. For the templates I ended up slimming down the arms considerably, but doing it by taking materials out of the low density foam models, until it fit well, albeit looked ugly. Then unfolded the parts physically and recut them. I was skeptical while doing it but it actually worked out very well for that part.

In addition to this I also rescaled and built the Shin, I say singular as I did build 2, but somehow managed to build 2 lefts, i was very disappointed in myself when I realised, but on the up side my second one was a lot neater! So im sanding the seams on the second accidental one as it looks like it will give a nicer finish!

Ive also placed what I really hope is my last order to my supplier, this time for the iconic Red, Silver and Gold Paints, A gloss seal, new application brushes and.. more bloody foam!

For anyone in the UK I would defiantly recommend them, UK-based Cosplay, Costumes, Props Foam & Flexi Paint Supplies Shop They deliver by courier so postage starts out higher, but on larger orders works out cheaper. Their range is constantly expanding and so far ive had excellent product from them, once I worked out how to use it of course!

Ill upload pictures once the next stage is complete and I have the entire raw foam suit constructed and clipped together. Then the fun part of painting the beast starts! Deadline is Halloween!
 

OJ102

Jr Member
Update. Building in mirror is harder then it sounds and looks! But ive now got both arm sections built and locked together. Ive used poppers on the upper arm/forarm so they are removable easily. For the shoulders i think there is too much stress to use then so may have to use a bolt to allow the flex im concerned novement will break the seams if they are solid.

I struggled with the neck seal for longer then id care to admit. It just never fit! It either chocked me or was made for a jaraff! So i wrapped my neck in cling film, duct taped it and then cut off the cast. Viola! A neck seal the right size and only needing 2 parts! It extends up juat below the jaw bone so you can turn the head freely, but higher on the back of the head to cover the spine. Im still working on a way to connect it together that looks good but i dont forsee if being a challenge.

For connnecting the are sections to the body im thinking of extending the neck seal to each shoulder and using elastic buckles so they keep a tight fit but allow flex. It will also let me add an underlay to hide more of the red under suit!

Electronics wise ive got the eyes sorted i hope. Tho the parts will be 2 weeks arriving!!!

Im still stuck on the hands and chest tho. I was thinking of using SMD LED clusters for wearability but they arnt easy to get! Unless i want a bulk buy!

To that end ive not built the hands yet as i need to know whats going inside them.

Currently all that remains is:

Right Shin
Right thigh
Left thigh.
Right boot
Left boot
Left hand
Right hand.

All the templates are ready they just need building or tweeking for electronics

Attached is the current progress. ill need to sand it in places still but i may trip parts once its built so its a comfee fit.
 

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That is awesome. I am amazed that you were able to get to this point using just EVA foam. So how much longer do you have before it goes into the painting phase?
 
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