Reach: Noble Team Build (JUN in progress)

electricknite

Member
alright alright alright....
I'm the worst. but with that out of the way:

Here we go: finished under-body-suit

*quick note, I built some of this in the wrong order but I'm writing this in the order I should've built it in.

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The majority of the suit is made with 2 layers of spandex. If I was to do it over I would've tried to get moleskin spandex which is a lot thicker and has a tighter stretch, like it doesn't bag out under its own weight. but otherwise 2 layers works pretty well, I haven't worn it in the heat but luckily where I am in Canada doesn't ever get very warm. The leather portions (excluding shoulders) are a stretchy pleather that I had to salvage from leggings and other clothes so there are 2 different kinds, one has a duller shine and a fleece-y underside the other is shiny, thin and has a smoother polyester underside. The fleece kind was a lot nicer to work with. the shoulder patches were made with marine vinyl and snaps so that I can eventually attach my bicep armour without it falling down my arms. gamer arms.. you know what I mean.

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The order of assembly is the most important part:

1) basic suit: (similar to Yaya hans bodysuit)

a) The front is made of 3 ish panels with princess seams. Ish because the middle one is cut in 2 right under the detail piece to make a pocket for the EVA foam insert to give it some dimension. Princess seams are the easiest way to get a nice shape for women but dont worry fellas, it'll work for you too if you want.

b) The back has 4 panels because it gets a zipper in the middle. (zipper doesn't go in yet)

c) The arms are all one piece but I made a decorative continuation of the princess seams down them.

Then I sewed all 4 sides (front, back, and both sleeves ) together raglan style (all the diagonal lines from the neck to the armpits. NOT the side seams) Raglan is the easiest way to sew sleeves on so for all the other beginners out there I would recommend it... unless that's not the way your cosplay is supposed to be.. luckily spartan undersuits don't actually have many rules because you cant see most of it haha! anyway..

**make sure you're happy with the fit, pin the sides together to test it. it sucks to adjust later I promise. also, stretch knits like spandex need stretchy seams so use a zigzag stich or a serger.

Untitled-1.jpg IMG_1255.JPG IMG_1256.JPG IMG_1260.JPG IMG_1262.JPG *red represents where the zipper will go

2) The shoulder patches were added to the sleeves at this point because I could gauge roughly where I wanted them to sit on my arms. before I sewed them on I added the snaps and the zigzag stitch detail in the middle then they were sewn on to the arm with a tight zigzag stitch. The 3d printed clippys were glued on with superglue.
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3) That spicy spicy Reach Butt. This was by far the most difficult thing to do, I did it about 3 times and almost ruined the suit in the process because of my maniacal cutting but in the end it turned out pretty good. I originally had made patterns from duct tape and cling wrap (like how you make the diy dress forms only I'm a monster and destroy them readily) but in the end I had to sort of make the patterns as I went along.

a) This will be confusing but bear with me. The spandex back panels were originally supposed to go all the way down to the crotch like in the drawing above but I kept messing up and ended up having to cut a new piece out and sewing it on. If you look at the picture of it inside out, you'll see that V of fusible interfacing, there is a seam underneath that was not originally supposed to be there. so, with that cleared up (hopefully) I can continue,

The large pleather area: this was patterned out after I had the back sewn together so I had to seam rip part of the "side seams of the back panel" so that I could re-sew them back up with the pleather sandwiched between them. (omg this must be SEW confusing!) sorry

The pleather was sewn from the top side to avoid messing with difficult angles like the V shapes at the top and bottom which can be fiddly if you're sewing it right sides together. Afterwards I hand-sewed all around the edges to keep them super smooth.

b) The 2 "pockets" looking parts were made separately then hand-sewed on. I'm not sure I could describe how I made them but its pretty much how you would expect from looking at the pictures. Bunch of stuff sewn together with more stuff sewn on top.. thats what I should just call this whole build, jesus....

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4) The front detail. So this is really just a pocket that goes over the "slit" I made in the front panel. its super easy except that I sewed it on by hand to avoid seeing any seam lines. You can see the eva insert that makes it looks oh so spacey.

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At this point it looked something like this or alternatively, put the details on before sewing the 4 sides together.. that's also an option.

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5) Next was the collar and zipper. the collar is a simple rectangle collar folded and sewn to a rounded part underneath. The rounded part can be easily patterned out by tracing the same area around your neck. before attaching it onto the suit I added the lines using the same tight zig zag stitch from before. I hand sewed the 3rd pleather ring that goes into the 3d printed "clip" after attaching the neck to the suit. I had to rip an inch or two of the zipper seam in order to attach the collar nicely.

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When I sew a zipper onto spandex I used 2 strips of fusible interfacing on each spandex side to keep the spandex from stretching while I sew. this way I keep the zipper smooth and not get a dinosaur back.

6) Now the side seams get sewn together all the way up the body and down the sleeves keeping the armpit seams lined up together. you can hem the sleeves at this point too.. or wait til the end.. doesn't really matter.

7) The hip panels may not be necessary but I added them for reasons probably. With the side seams all done up I could try it on pray there were no adjustments that needed to be made. seriously. you really don't want to have to do adjustments to any of the princess seams so make sure you're confident about the fit before putting on the detail. -hang on I'm putting this at the beginning-**
Cool.
K double checking that it fits and I was happy I made the pleather hip pattern with masking tape right on the suit and to avoid seeing stitching I sewed the right sides together. I cut the same shape of spandex (leaving seam allowance of course) out of the suit to make it easier to sew together.
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8) I finished the leg holes with regular cotton bias tape and ran stretchy webbing through. not sure how sensible that is.. non stretchy cotton with stretchy webbing but here we are, it worked for me so whatever. don't @ me.
The crotch has 3 prong snaps to keep it closed.. hopefully they will.

th-th-thats all folks!

ps. sorry about my english, it's my first language.

pps. Subscribe to Pewdiepie
 
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TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
ps. sorry about my english, it's my first language.
Same.

Big mood.

But for real, this suit is amazing and I need to go remake mine now. So many helpful tips are hidden in this post and the level of information is stunning. It kind of made me feel like a monkey bashing rocks together when it comes to my sewing skills. Well done.
 

AndrewGillen

New Member
My goodness this is some incredible work! What kind of a sewing level do you have to be to replicate this kind of work?
 

electricknite

Member
AndrewGillen honestly you just have to have a steady hand, a good plan and patience. If you learn how clothes are put together, it helps with the sewing order. If you can, sew details on flat before making your garment 3D, you can always pin the sides to check the placement. and get a lot of pins/clips, you can never use too many.

I have no idea what qualifies as whatever sewing level.. I'd say beginner because Ive never sewn lining into a jacket but I have made a few basic cosplays in the past. This one is definitely the most ambitious thing Ive ever built.

try it out! don't be afraid to mess up its the best way to learn. mock ups with cheap fabric are a really good idea if you're testing stuff and unsure but spandex is very forgiving.
 
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electricknite

Member
My tips:

-Use so many pins, more pins the better.
-Use interfacing to keep spandex stable while sewing in a zipper
-If material is gripping the sewing machine (like pleather does) use painters tape to make it run smoothly
-Test stiches on scrap fabric before starting
-Know your construction order!!!(y)(y)(y)o_Oo_Oo_O i mean it !!!!!!
-Learn the right stitch to use: spandex needs to stretch so use a zigzag or a serger
-Don't use post snaps on stretchy fabric, use prong snaps instead
-Keep the rough side of velcro facing away from your skin UNLESS its used for attaching armour, then put the rough side on the armour.
-Velcro is good at attaching armour to clothing. sewing it down can be tricky but its worth it. Use a thimble to save your thumbs. you need those for gaming. ;)
 
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TurboCharizard

RMO & BCO
405th Regiment Officer
Community Staff
AndrewGillen I have no idea what qualifies as whatever sewing level.. I'd say beginner because Ive never sewn lining into a jacket but I have made a few basic cosplays in the past. This one is definitely the most ambitious thing Ive ever built.
Sewing level seems like such a weird concept... My first sewing project was a duster that had lining and it's just a matter of following order of operations.

Like you said, sewing isn't hard it's just time consuming. Careful planning and precise repetitive actions are what make a sewing project look good.
 

electricknite

Member
I'm considering making my armor from foam. this fibreglass business is just not the most fun thing Ive ever done and no matter what i do the front of my chest piece sags and i'm not super keen on putting a pound of bondo on it... It'd be a shame to waste all the work I've done though, the shins, bicep pieces and cod are looking good. might try some patching on the chest. like get a sheet of plastic and cut out the place that sags. Anyone know plastics that don't melt with polyester resin?

iIn other news, I'm almost done that undersuit video I promised -like 2 years ago.
 
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