Simple Helmet Speaker System

It made it a little better, but still not quite as loud as moe's seems to be. The level of distortion is also quite high- to the point that words are no longer intelligible. Consider also that your speaker will sound very quiet until you baffle it, so try mounting it in a sheet of cardboard or something to get a better idea of how it will sound when it's in the helmet.

Hmmm, if ti becomes inaudible then I might attempt a different fix. I used the speaker he linked too. Amazon.com: uxcell a15080600ux0275 Metal Shell Round Internal Magnet Speaker 2W 8 Ohm Pack of 4: Industrial & Scientific

Might be silly but could I add a second speaker? I am new to all of this and troubleshooting seems impossible at this level.

Edit: I tried baffling the speaker with some different things. Although still more quiet than Id like.. it still was a big difference. I am going to design a 3d printed one and try that out.
 
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I've tried both that kind and a deeper 1" speaker with an actual cone to similar effect. It's not that it's inaudible, but that lowering the resistor value increases volume, but also increases distortion because it seems to be overdriving the input of the amp. I doubt adding a second speaker will significantly improve your result, but it could be fun to try.just make sure you don't drop your load impedence below what the amp is rated for.
 
I've tried both that kind and a deeper 1" speaker with an actual cone to similar effect. It's not that it's inaudible, but that lowering the resistor value increases volume, but also increases distortion because it seems to be overdriving the input of the amp. I doubt adding a second speaker will significantly improve your result, but it could be fun to try.just make sure you don't drop your load impedence below what the amp is rated for.


Thanks for the replies btw! Do you think any other resistor is worth trying over the 330K one?
 
330k for whatever reason seemed to work best for me. Any higher and it got too quiet, any lower and there too much distortion. Couldn't tell you the math of it. I may do some more experimenting tonight just for giggles.
 
You may notice a significant difference if you mount your speaker to some sort of resonating chamber. This is the one I designed:

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Placing the speaker in the downward position is probably getting that boost that some are missing.
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The only other difference is the speaker itself. I'm using a DHB27-8: 8 ohm, 2 watt, 27mm x 14.3mm(1.06” x 0.56”). Frequency range 200 - 20,000 Hz.$7.50 from railmaster hobby.
 
You may notice a significant difference if you mount your speaker to some sort of resonating chamber. This is the one I designed:

View attachment 290449

Placing the speaker in the downward position is probably getting that boost that some are missing.
View attachment 290450


View attachment 290451

The only other difference is the speaker itself. I'm using a DHB27-8: 8 ohm, 2 watt, 27mm x 14.3mm(1.06” x 0.56”). Frequency range 200 - 20,000 Hz.$7.50 from railmaster hobby.

That is awesome, thank you! Do you by chance have the STL still available to share?

Edit: I designed one and printed it. It helped a little but my voice still drowns out what comes from the speaker. Looks like I am making a 25 minute drive to the nearest hobby store for a new speaker and resistor.
 
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Just a thought:

Most Halo helmets have 4 lights built into them because us cosplayers like to see. I have often thought in real life if there wouldn't be an IR one, a UV one, a laser one (in case they were lasing for air support as a JTAC), and a flashlight. Anyway, that's beside the point.

Why not put the speaker in one of those places, maybe even one on both sides? That'd prevent the speaker being muffled by helmet and padding.

Also, sorry if this has previously been discussed. This little thread grew a billion replies and I don't have the time or ambition to read through them all at the moment.
 
You may notice a significant difference if you mount your speaker to some sort of resonating chamber. This is the one I designed:

Placing the speaker in the downward position is probably getting that boost that some are missing.

The only other difference is the speaker itself. I'm using a DHB27-8: 8 ohm, 2 watt, 27mm x 14.3mm(1.06” x 0.56”). Frequency range 200 - 20,000 Hz.$7.50 from railmaster hobby.


That is awesome, thank you! Do you by chance have the STL still available to share?

Howdy once again. I too would like to know if you would mind sharing the speaker mount STL file and/or the mic mounting pieces. I do plan to learn how to use software to create 3d objects, but atm I know zero on how to use or even begin to use this type of software. I'd be willing to send some cash your way for your efforts and time, I just currently don't have the time to learn a program that would let me accomplish this as I'm in school, ft job and 3 kids.
 
Howdy once again. I too would like to know if you would mind sharing the speaker mount STL file and/or the mic mounting pieces. I do plan to learn how to use software to create 3d objects, but atm I know zero on how to use or even begin to use this type of software. I'd be willing to send some cash your way for your efforts and time, I just currently don't have the time to learn a program that would let me accomplish this as I'm in school, ft job and 3 kids.

Since my enclosure was specifically designed for my mando helmet, it's probably better if you just tell me the size of the speaker you have and where you plan on putting it in your helmet. I could make a basic enclosure for you and give you the mic holder I made. The rest is just gluing it all in place.
 
TBH man, I have duplicated just about everything you have done for the helmet(I know, I'm lame an un-original, nor have the knowledge atm to figure it out myself, but when you find something you like and want-- well sir you "nailed it"). Fortunately the helm you linked was the one I found and used before I stumbled on your post while looking for a voice modifier. I'm using the same speaker, amps, mic, wiring. I found switches that looked to be almost identical to the ones you used. The speakers are set to arrive any day now as its been like 2 months for delivery. I don't actually have them yet.

I like the placement of you "latch mount" looks like you could detach it and let it hang below via that hinge. Probably make it easier for putting it on and off. I shall be mounting mine in a similar fashion. the mic holders would be awesome. I can figure it all out from there. I'm almost done wiring.
On another note I opened up blender last night and tried playing around with it. I'm going to try to teach myself how to use it over the next few weeks so i can contribute to some of the communities I have joined since I got my 3d printer last august.
 
TBH man, I have duplicated just about everything you have done for the helmet(I know, I'm lame an un-original, nor have the knowledge atm to figure it out myself, but when you find something you like and want-- well sir you "nailed it"). Fortunately the helm you linked was the one I found and used before I stumbled on your post while looking for a voice modifier. I'm using the same speaker, amps, mic, wiring. I found switches that looked to be almost identical to the ones you used. The speakers are set to arrive any day now as its been like 2 months for delivery. I don't actually have them yet.

I like the placement of you "latch mount" looks like you could detach it and let it hang below via that hinge. Probably make it easier for putting it on and off. I shall be mounting mine in a similar fashion. the mic holders would be awesome. I can figure it all out from there. I'm almost done wiring.
On another note I opened up blender last night and tried playing around with it. I'm going to try to teach myself how to use it over the next few weeks so i can contribute to some of the communities I have joined since I got my 3d printer last august.

Here are my mic and Speaker holder. May it serve you well.
 

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Here's the finished product. All my pieces were printed before I started this task. Were i to do it again, I wlild do custom infill for the ear pieces, and I would absolutely do 100% infill on the helmet. This frigging thing broke like 8 times at the visor edges. Might serve you well to add in a brace to the bottom of the front between to two sides of the front, where I mounted the speaker. That may give some more stability.
I still will be adding in a few more cushion points and will need to re-adjust the mic as I'm getting some.chirpping in the mic. I have to reposition the fan so it doesnt get caught in my hair.
All in all I was underwhelmed with the result audibility. I may look into adding more juice and a slightly bigger speaker. I did not get the same result as Moe, his seems much louder.
I would recommend paining the buttons before putting them in the helm.
Moe thank you so much for all your help and support!
 
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Just a thought:

Most Halo helmets have 4 lights built into them because us cosplayers like to see.

Why not put the speaker in one of those places, maybe even one on both sides? That'd prevent the speaker being muffled by helmet and padding.

I’m a crazy person and I’m going to try to cram 3 of these bad boys in my helmet... and fans.
One for left ear in, one for right ear in, one for voice out. That way, hopefully I can still keep my spatial awareness with helmet on. I’m going to be putting two of the mics in the light holes. This little setup is going to change my helmets forever! Thanks Moe!
 
I’m a crazy person and I’m going to try to cram 3 of these bad boys in my helmet... and fans.
One for left ear in, one for right ear in, one for voice out. That way, hopefully I can still keep my spatial awareness with helmet on. I’m going to be putting two of the mics in the light holes. This little setup is going to change my helmets forever! Thanks Moe!

I had the same thought in my helmet. Do you have a thread where you will be documenting this? I want to see how it goes!
 

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