WinterHuntsman’s ODST build WIP

Coat number 2 is on.
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It’s looking good so far. Still wondering why it was tacky before I applied the second coat

Also cleaning up the inside of this helmet is going to be a pain as it’s like a rose bush in there.
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Sean Anwalt

RCO
405th Regiment Officer
A dremel with a cutting blade is gonna be your best friend for that. Be careful not to cut into your hard work, though!
 
A dremel with a cutting blade is gonna be your best friend for that. Be careful not to cut into your hard work, though!
Thanks! I got a Dremel downstairs so that will be perfect.

Inside coat is done. Now one coat left to do on the outside, then comes what ever the next step is.
Also this may be a bad omen but I tried putting the helmet on before doing the second inside coat and I couldn’t get my head through the next hole. Hopefully that’s just because of the extra stuff on the neck line and not a shrink in the helmet.
 

Sean Anwalt

RCO
405th Regiment Officer
You don't have to put fiberglass on the outside. Just bondo it when the time comes. Fiberglass is going to take away details on the outside.
 
You don't have to put fiberglass on the outside. Just bondo it when the time comes. Fiberglass is going to take away details on the outside.
Well I put resin on the outside. I won’t do a third coat then.
So not that it’s all fiberglass’s up inside and out what is the next thing I do?
 

Sean Anwalt

RCO
405th Regiment Officer
Fiberglass resin inside and out. Yes. Fiberglass mat/ cloth, no. The resin is perfectly fine.

I'm sorry for any confusion.

The next step is to sand it all over on the outside to give the bondo (or bondo-like substance) a good grip. It should be ok anyway, but there's more chance it will flake off if you don't rough it up a little.

When doing the bondo, go small. Small amounts built into larger amounts. There's less sanding involved (you're welcome) and it's easier to control and shape.
 
Fiberglass resin inside and out. Yes. Fiberglass mat/ cloth, no. The resin is perfectly fine.

I'm sorry for any confusion.

The next step is to sand it all over on the outside to give the bondo (or bondo-like substance) a good grip. It should be ok anyway, but there's more chance it will flake off if you don't rough it up a little.

When doing the bondo, go small. Small amounts built into larger amounts. There's less sanding involved (you're welcome) and it's easier to control and shape.
Ok that’s good. So I’ll go ahead and order the bondo.
I got 2 coats on the helmet so far, should I go for a third on the outside only before I start sanding?

So far I’m just impressed how well it looks for my first time doing a project like this. There is a little warping but it still really cool.
Thanks for all the help so far guys, you are helping make a dream project of mine a reality.
 

he4thbar

Well-Known Member
Ok that’s good. So I’ll go ahead and order the bondo.
I got 2 coats on the helmet so far, should I go for a third on the outside only before I start sanding?
2 Coats should be fine, 3 if you want to. I only did 2 on the outside and will be bondoing next week. Also in regards to ordering bondo, i'm not sure where you live but you can find it at most walmarts or home improvement stores(home-depot). It will cost less in store because there is no transportation of hazardas materials. I bought spot putty online for $18 and when I went into walmart found it for $5. But thats up to you.

Also if you sand/cut the sharp edges on the inside down you can look into "Rondoing" the inside of your helmet for a smooth and reinforced interior. it's not necessary though.

Glad to see your progress, we all like to see others exceed as much as ourselves I believe on these forums.
 

xXDashIVXx

Sr Member
I also reccomend working by applying small thin layers in sections. Do not cover all or any more than 1/5th of the helmet at a time, and dont slap it on. This will minimize details you have and significantly increase the time ot will take yo finish
 
Ok so then I’ll go out to the store and get bondo.
So when sanding am I trying to round things out or just rough the surface up for the bondo?
I assume bondo will be used to get the smooth curves and fill in some of the warped dents in the helmet.
 

xXDashIVXx

Sr Member
Ok so then I’ll go out to the store and get bondo.
So when sanding am I trying to round things out or just rough the surface up for the bondo?
I assume bondo will be used to get the smooth curves and fill in some of the warped dents in the helmet.
Absolutly. Bondo is used to smooth everything out, and get some extra raised detail. It's like clay, but you dont have much to work on it, and you arent sculpting from scratch. Plus in order to shape it any further you have to sand it.

And again, work in small very thin passes :b
 

Sean Anwalt

RCO
405th Regiment Officer
Ditto what these guys are saying. Rough up the resin a tiny bit, then using a putty knife or similar object, apply the bondo and use it to make your piece smooth and not angular.

Unfortunately there is a huge amount of sanding involved. Smaller amounts of bondo make lighter sanding, but you'll have to sand nonetheless.
 
Today’s been sanding day. Found my dads dremel and started to go at the helmet interior. Glad I’m wearing goggles and my face respirator as there is a lot of fiber glass dust generated.
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Also picked up bondo today with a few plastic spatula things. When I do the bondo sections do I want to create a thin layer or keep it thick? I would think thin as it be easier to get details, but raise it in areas that are a bit warped.
I’ll post more photos when the helmet sanding is done.
 
Sanding is complete and inside is pretty cleaned out now.
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While it all looks good, there is a slight problem. I can no longer fit my head into the helmet. The neck line is too narrow now.
I’m going to have to sacrifice that bottom neck ring to try and get my head in. Hopefully that’s all I’ll have to remove.

Rest is sanded though while still slightly smooth it has not got that tacky feeling back to it. I’ll start bondo as soon as I have time.
 

xXDashIVXx

Sr Member
You can always rebuild the neck line with a big squishy foam padding. That way it is there and more comfortable. Always apply in thin layers to small sections of the helmet. Even if there is a huge dent. This will save you alot more work in the long run. Apply thin coat to a small area, sand that down flush with the helmet, and repeat over the bondo if this is the case. Dont add too much hardener agent, and try and keep it out of the detail gaps
 

Frozensnot

Well-Known Member
How much smaller is the neck line? If you can I would recommend trimming out the area where your ears will enter the helmet. Then as xXDashIVXx recommended add some type of foam product for padding. You can also use car door seal weatherstripping to easily curve around the neck line and save your head from the scratchy fiberglass.
 
Ok so I’m going to finish sanding tonight. About to reattach the shoulder straps on the foam chest piece as well and should hopefully have photos of that up soon.
So while I work on sanding and the bondo what is the next step for foam to fill in gaps? This time round I got tiny gaps hear and there that heat treating didn’t get, like the thickness of a penny, and only in a few spots. I have been going around and filling them in with excess foam but is there a more efficient way to fill those gaps in?
 

xXDashIVXx

Sr Member
Ok so I’m going to finish sanding tonight. About to reattach the shoulder straps on the foam chest piece as well and should hopefully have photos of that up soon.
So while I work on sanding and the bondo what is the next step for foam to fill in gaps? This time round I got tiny gaps hear and there that heat treating didn’t get, like the thickness of a penny, and only in a few spots. I have been going around and filling them in with excess foam but is there a more efficient way to fill those gaps in?
If they are that big it sounds like it wasnt glues well enough. Try glueing them with super glue. Superglue can also fill in seams to an extent. Quick seal is a good seam filler, but you have to get it perfect as it isnt sandable. I like woodland scenics foam putty, but it doesnt work well with areas that would flex. Also try foam clay or foam mo. It is moldable clay that dries into eva foam after 24 to 48 hours, and is sandable, but it doesnt work well when it is thin and spread out
 
Few updates
First the helmet neck has been sanded down to where I can now put the helmet on completely. It’s a snug fit but it’s not a painful pinch or anything.
Second I finally finished the chest piece. It still needs its breast plate and I need to make the seams more seamless.
Overall it looks much better than my first attempt in my opinion.
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Next up on things to do is new upper arm pieces and the breast plate. So next update will be either another finished foam armor part or the start of the bondo process of the helmet.
 

xXDashIVXx

Sr Member
Few updates
First the helmet neck has been sanded down to where I can now put the helmet on completely. It’s a snug fit but it’s not a painful pinch or anything.
Second I finally finished the chest piece. It still needs its breast plate and I need to make the seams more seamless.
Overall it looks much better than my first attempt in my opinion.
View attachment 275099
View attachment 275100

Next up on things to do is new upper arm pieces and the breast plate. So next update will be either another finished foam armor part or the start of the bondo process of the helmet.
I am going to be that guy, but the reason your seams and cuts arent perfect is because your knife is already dulling. Replace the blade and sharpen it. It also looks like it opened up because of the heatgun. If the lines connect good the gaps wont open
 
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