Props Zarnel's Spartan Laser Build

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woooahhh...
so awesome!!

any plan on showing us how to make something like that?
did you use templates or something?

CJ
 
that is an amazing build. I think you hold the title for "first finished spartan laser" on the site. Congrats! Just a few questions about polystyrene.

1. where do you get yours from?
2. are you using a heat gun to form the curves?
3. what thickness are you using?

thanks and again, great job!
 
woooahhh...
so awesome!!

any plan on showing us how to make something like that?
did you use templates or something?

CJ
that is an amazing build. I think you hold the title for "first finished spartan laser" on the site. Congrats! Just a few questions about polystyrene.

1. where do you get yours from?
2. are you using a heat gun to form the curves?
3. what thickness are you using?

thanks and again, great job!



I did use templates, sort of. What I did was print off the pepakura file "SpartanLaser_Letter_Nugget" and then tape segments of the laser together. (I got the file from here:http://www.4shared.com/file/ZGXeUHmB/Spartan_Laser_by_Nugget.html)
The segments I created were mostly the large flat sections and the large curved sections. Any parts that could be made into one continuous piece were done so. Then I carefully traced these segments onto sheet styrene of different thicknesses based on the final shape of the part:

The largest flat pieces (for the sides) were cut from 1/8 inch thickness, providing a rigid backbone for the entire structure.
Thinner pieces were used for curved segments, 1/16 inch and .08 inch. The pieces were thin enough that they could be curved into shape without heating them up or manually putting a permanent bend into the piece.

The segments are chemically welded together using solvents. Any large gaps were filled with strips of the thinnest sheet material, and small gaps are closed using autobody filler.

I got my sheets of polystyrene from Queen City Polymer, which serves the area around Cincinnati, Ohio. A 4ft by 8 ft sheet of 1/8 inch thickness cost around $15 and they let me pick it up myself, rolled up and stuffed in the back of my little compact car. If, like most people, you live somewhere other than Cincinnati, look for local sheet polymer distributors in your area.

Note: The industry name for this material is "High Impact Polystyrene." Simply asking for "sheet styrene" will get you nothing but confused looks and claims of prank calls.:p
 
Wow man, awesome props for the most epic splaser ever! (and the only one)

Thank you to everyone who has shown their enthusiasm toward this project.

But, the only one? I was sure I saw other splaser builds on this forum a couple years ago; before i even started this build. Granted, the ones I saw were either crudely cut out of cardboard or hand carved out of heavy fiber board.
I remebmber thinking, 'Those are a good effort, how can I take this to the next level?"

I know this isn't the first attepmt. Those builders inspired me to put my effort into making mine as well built as possible. I can only hope that my version inspires others to put their best effort into making their own props as good as they can.
 
You should look into getting a visible red laser, so that it can be even more impressive than the LEDs.
 
Excellence!

This is probably one of the best splaser builds on here (there were a few others), I am very impressed, and can't wait to see what you do next.
 
You should look into getting a visible red laser, so that it can be even more impressive than the LEDs.

I did consider using a laser, but there were several issues.

The main concern for me was safety
: As far as I know, all commercially sold laser pointers have warning labels warning people not to point the product at anyone, since the light is intense enough to cause permanent damage to an individual's eyesight. Carrying a laser pointer at eye level (in a shoulder mounted weapon), and then pointing that laser at people (walking around at conventions, taking pictures, etc.), is just asking for someone to go blind.

Second, the beam width for normal laser pointers is tiny, especially compared to the width of the emitter on the spartan laser. Having a tiny beam come out of a big weapon just felt silly to me, so I decided against it.

Third, expense: A laser with an output high enough for the beam to be visible even in fairly dark environments is extremely expensive. High output lasers are also power-hogs, meaning that the batteries would have to be replaced frequently.

In the end I decided to use LEDs because they were safer and less expensive, while still providing a decent visual effect.

Now, using a bright green laser in a Covenant Carbide, that might be a good idea, as long as you don't point it at a person's face.
 
I did consider using a laser, but there were several issues.

The main concern for me was safety
: As far as I know, all commercially sold laser pointers have warning labels warning people not to point the product at anyone, since the light is intense enough to cause permanent damage to an individual's eyesight. Carrying a laser pointer at eye level (in a shoulder mounted weapon), and then pointing that laser at people (walking around at conventions, taking pictures, etc.), is just asking for someone to go blind.

Second, the beam width for normal laser pointers is tiny, especially compared to the width of the emitter on the spartan laser. Having a tiny beam come out of a big weapon just felt silly to me, so I decided against it.

Third, expense: A laser with an output high enough for the beam to be visible even in fairly dark environments is extremely expensive. High output lasers are also power-hogs, meaning that the batteries would have to be replaced frequently.

In the end I decided to use LEDs because they were safer and less expensive, while still providing a decent visual effect.

Now, using a bright green laser in a Covenant Carbide, that might be a good idea, as long as you don't point it at a person's face.

Small red laser sites have been used playing airsoft for a long time . But, I also think the LED would be less expensive, and not make people at the Con's upset, or the people putting on the Con's. This thing looks Great!
 
There would be a small safety issue, but as long as you were carefull enough it should be fine. I started to look into it (about 10 minutes) and found a few lasers for under $50.00. I am not sure if they would be visible enough, but it is an interesting idea. I also had the thought that if it wasn't a thick enough beam you could use a few lasers taped together to give the impression of a large laser.
 
There would be a small safety issue, but as long as you were carefull enough it should be fine. I started to look into it (about 10 minutes) and found a few lasers for under $50.00. I am not sure if they would be visible enough, but it is an interesting idea. I also had the thought that if it wasn't a thick enough beam you could use a few lasers taped together to give the impression of a large laser.

Yeah, or maybe just one or two lasers and/or high intensity LEDs with a diffuser in front to spread a much more even glow. Just a thought, but this is looking great!
 
Thanks for the amazing write up on page 3. I was looking over the initial pictures posted with one thought "h..how?!" lol

Now what's this about magnets erasing microchip programming? That doesn't sound right. At least not EEPROM flash chips (microcontollers). If you are looking for a cheap and easy to learn chip, look into arduino.
 
Dude!!! That is WICKED!!!

I'm going to be making one out of foam poster board (it wont be anywhere near your spectacular build) I did however have an idea to make the LED start out dim and super-brighten. Couldn't you use some form of capacitors and resistors in a series so the unit would slowly "power" up?
1 Battery pack
1 off-set Motor
1 (or 2) Red LEDs

Using DC you can hook everything up but have 2 different "end points" The trigger could be used by either a push-button or a tactile switch (same concept) but have 1 for each end point. 1 for the Motor, 1 for the LEDs. Attaching higher capable capacitors to the motor, or higher resistors, u could "time" it to turn on once enough energy has gone through the LEDs. Using the same principle of resistors slowing down energy and amps (the speed of current) Technically.... you could get the LED to go from dim to bright from power build up, and the motor from off to ON. Theoretically that is. This is what I plan on doing myself. Hope this helps a bit :D

-The off-set motor is for vibration btw, JUST in case you weren't sure but I'm sure you are ^^
 
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